Kingman

Had my step dad weld a bearing race onto the frame for the compression rod bushing.

Plasti dip. Its the new craze nowadays, everyone is doing it. Maybe not to their entire car but everything else you can think of.

A bit, just need to wells an extension on one of the motor mounts to reach a mounting boss and use spacers. I can't seem to find the pictures I took...

Glad to hear you got it back mostly intact man. Its a shame they don't check for prints. Costs too much money for how many vehicles are stolen and its a "waste of time" to the police. You'd think they would, and therefore have less thefts and less phone calls/reports to deal with.

No, putting the VG30 cams in the VG33.

I had an '84 Z31 engine in my '88 Pathfinder, same small snout crank. Now I have the '84 Z31 crank and pistons in an '88 Pathfinder block. Now, if you go with a pre- '86 Z31 engine you will need to modify the motor mounts to match the mounting bosses as they are different. The 4/'87+ W-series engine is the large snout crank. Easiest way to tell is if the crank bolt is 22 or 27mm.

I've towed 2,800lbs with my '88. It handled it decently considering the lack of power and stopping wasn't a real big issue, although I didn't have to do any serious emergency braking and being a manual gearing down helped. I would suggest some stiffer F100 or longer Jeep springs, if yours are sagging like mine were it tended to like the bump stops. The '05+ Xterras have a well know issue with the radiator cracking and mixing coolant with the ATF. So if you did get one, be sure to bypass it with a fatty cooler!

Lol but doing a clutch in one is one of the easiest I've ever done. Actually might be easier than the Z31s only because of the firewall clearance around the bell housing without the cross over pipe. Trans is heavier but still easy enough to drop on your chest and roll out from under it then bench press it back in. Do you have any pics of your VG33 swaps?

3 hours later...

I don't like how the brown clip just wrinkled the tape though. Oh well I guess.

I generally have 3-4 layers of protection. Shrink wrap, tape the wires together, conduit, then wrap the conduit in tape and seal the ends of the tape with vinyl glue.

As far as I've gotten... lol

Started building a new wiring harness, I don't really like the way this one goes on the top sides of the plenum. I want to see if I can get one to run below it along the LIM so its more out of sight.

Damn another one! I'm sorry man, best of luck to you. You feel downright violated. Hope you get her back intact.

Damn another one! I'm sorry man, best of luck to you. You feel downright violated. Hope you get her back intact.

Agreed. $38+13 for shipping for a full poly front control arm, upper and lower both sides, is hard to beat with the ease of them being split so you can tap them in with a hammer.

Just did mine, torched them out and slid the new poly bushings in. If you properly grease poly it'll last a lifetime.

Didn't realize I already posted in this thread!

I use a stout hose clamp to tighten around an oil filter then tap the screwdriver or nut driver with a hammer to spin the stuck ones off. Works well so long as there's enough room.

They sound way different.

Purple Power and lacquer thinner. The real stuff, not that sissy la-la go green banana oil garbage.

Are you reversing to disengage 4WD? They usually don't on their own, you need to stop and back up a few feet until they click. On the WDs the axles don't turn in 2WD. Definitely clean and grease well to start! Often times that's the problem with them.

Fought with the UCA spindle on the passenger side and torched out the LCA bushing and got the new one in. I need a new spindle, one of the bushing sleeves is locked solid to it and I ended up bending the spindle end trying to drive it out. Gotta fix the compression rod bushing hole too and weld a cup on, its trashed. To the junkyard I go tomorrow!

You cut them where they come to full diameter. Or, heat with a torch and bend them out for a little more lift.