Kingman

Put the whole truck on stands, put it 4hi, and spin the rear tires. Make sure the front driveshaft does spin, and listen for the click of the hubs engaging. If one hub is bad neither front wheels will engage, same if a CV axle is bad. Its an open diff thing. If the front driveshaft doesn't spin you're transfer case might be bad.

Almost all aftermarket ball joints with grease zerks don't come packed, just enough grease to keep them from rusting. If you don't pack them before installing they'll be ruined real quick and can lock up.

So by what was said it seems like he's saying its not shifting from third to fourth. By " kind of feels like it wants to engage but just doesn't" he's describing the torque converter lockup. Since there's no fourth gear and I have it right, there's nothing wrong with the transmission at all. Or he means its not shifting from second to third, that's a problem. WyKi can you clarify a little?

Thanks bud! I think I was sneaky when I sent you that transmission cooler and didn't put it on the box and even then that was a few addresses ago.

On the chassis. The hoop is separating from the flat bracket. That and the upper hinges are worn out, its annoying.

Added more adjustment to my alternator bracket, got an ashtray for it, cleaned up the wiring from the previous people that ripped a lot of it apart, and took off my fender flares. I need a new hatch latch or weld it solid again, it squeaks going over bumps.

Definitely a 5-speed.

Parts for those things are pretty hard to find sometimes. If you parted it out I'm sure a lot of people will want parts off of it that's dealer only.

Back in to an X5, that'll stop the rattling. Seriously though, by hitting it it bent the lower bracket upward a smidge pressing the bushing in place. It still opens and closes fine but that God awful rattle is gone. It was LOUD. So if you're cheap, take a BFH and give the outside edges of the brackets a good whack and it'll probably shut up for a while. On mine the entire tire carrier has to be replaced because the bushings got seized and started turning with the carrier, tearing up the holes in the brackets.

Out of the vacuum line, yes. Any fuel at all coming out means the diaphragm has failed.

Kinda weird, is yours a 5-speed or automatic? There's two things built into one TPS, an idle/full throttle switch and a potentiometer for the automatics.

I assume you've replaced the TPS...?

My buddy has an early '95, it has coil springs

27mm.

If you replaced both temp sensors, you replaced the "CHTS." On the TBI models it was the CHTS because it actually measured cylinder head temperature and not the actual coolant temperature. The MPFI trucks do, hence the ECU Coolant Temperature Sensot name.

Did you try and start it with the MAF unplugged?

I've been having issues with cheap thermostats sticking open in my Pathfinder, the one that's in mine is doing it now actually and my fuel mileage is down quite a bit because of it. Bought a Nissan one to throw in but haven't done it yet. Both my old Zs had cheap thermostats and both failed closed. Moral of story: buy OEM Nissan thermostats. The extra few bucks is worth a good working part that'll last another 20+ years.

'87 is a 3-speed transmission made by Jatco, so if you're waiting for a 4th gear shift it'll never happen. I saved my failing 3-speed by a fluid change and an aftermarket cooler.

Gonna go out on a limb here and say that the Z24 transmission is a C series variant like they used in the 720 pickups. Regardless of that anyhow, whether its a C series or 30A, the bell housings will be different.

Put new windshield wipers on it. For $15, less than the price of one at the parts store, I got a 19" and 20" Teflon coated wipers from Rock Autos closeout sale. Didn't even have to leave the house. I bought them before the truck was stolen and just now got around to putting them on.

Loose terminals, loose ground, shorted cell in the battery.

Sure do! Its a maintenance item, left for too long past due it will slip or break.

Another thing, if you're smelling raw fuel from under the hood, pull the vacuum line off of the fuel pressure regulator and see if it spits fuel out. If it does the diaphragm has failed, causing your issues.

If the belt hadn't been changed , should have been twice by now, it may be loose and skipped a tooth. I'd pop the top cover off and look. Also, try cleaning the MAF with a q tip and rubbing alcohol as well as make sire there's no corrosion on the plug contacts. Checking for codes from the ECU will tell a lot as well and it might even be that you have a bad O2 sensor, however if its not entirely failed (open circuit or out of parameters) the ECU won't know its bad. Another common failure point is the CHTS, which you can see ad a yellow plug behind the timing belt cover. That is the ECUs lifeline next to the MAF for running good, it tells the ECU what temperature the engine is so it can adjust the air/ fuel ratio, injector duty cycle, and timing. If it is bad, it'll throw everything out of whack and in my eyes the ONLY replacement is a genuine Nissan one along with the sub harness.