Kingman

Sure it will. TBI runs a 10.5:1 VG34 just fine.

Check out the how-to section in the garage. There's a few pinned threads to take a look at.

Probably, take it out and clean it and the connections.

You're doing it wrong. After the 3 quick blinks, turn the dial back and that enters diagnostic mode 3, which is what gives you the stored codes. Those blinks indicate MODES, 1-5.

You said in your first post it bogs down, right? That's not the clutch... if it was it'd be slipping, revving up, and going nowhere.

Haha yeah, me. Ran the whole Z31 setup in mine. No consult, only thing you can do with it is Nistune it or add a rommulator.

M30s are 16 bit (I think) and consult. Hop over to Z31performance.com and look around there. Here's two links from redz31.net with tunes and a rommulator how-to. http://redz31.net/pages/fuel/romulator.html http://redz31.net/pages/fuel/bin.html

There was the guy on here that did a turbo set up on his red Pathfinder using a stock MPFI plenum. That takes care of the clearance issue.

Maybe. Custom motor mounts, exhaust, extending the rear drive shaft, shortening the front one, custom oil pan to clear the front diff (you will lose capacity), transmission mounts, shifter location, all kinds of stuff seen and unforeseen. That's a lot of work and you'd need a REALLY slim electric fan. I had maybe an inch of clearance between my Villager fan and the water pump pulley. That's a crap load of work man.

Well the exhaust is whatever you want to do with it but I can tell you that the Hardbody engine bay clears a Z31 intake better than a Pathfinder's being as the body sits higher and the firewall/tunnel slopes towards the back further down. I did cut the firewall for the plenum but didn't move the engine, 'bout a 9x6 piece and the plenum sits over an inch inside. The crossover tube will not fit unless you seriously smash the firewall in with a BFH, but the heater core/box/lines are right on the backside of the firewall so good luck. Probably the best bet would be to mount the turbo up high and make your own crossover tube that can clear the rear or go around the front. You actually have to mount the turbo up high because the stock Z31 location won't clear the frame.

Try the O2 sensor and if that doesn't help maybe take it to an exhaust shop and have them test the cat (back pressure test). You should have close to none. A prematurely failed cat makes power tank but a root cause of it can be running too rich or just a faulty one.

No way to adapt an old VG30 ECU to a VQ, they just can't do anything with it. Thought about Megasquirt?

Sounds like it's related to one cylinder if it's that rhythmic, as in when that cylinder is supposed to fire it's not doing so fully. Injector, spark plug, wire, cap point, compression....

It's practically race fuel, here it's $13 a gallon. Or there's that octane boost in a bottle.

You'd need a Saudi vacuum advance distributor (good luck), or make your own. There's nothing wrong with the TBI per say and it works pretty well when it works right. MPFI from TBI is about a 15HP increase in power (I've done it). What did you do with the ECU? Rommulator and a Prius tune? Remove the full B+ relay so the ECU only sends the pump 9V? Stock FPR? What is your timing set at? Why do you have sludge for oil in a tight tolerance engine? Back plug is easy to get to, give it a good ol' reach around. Your tank is 21 7/8 gallon so basically 22 gallons. Is your odometer 100% accurate?

Swap out the sheit plugs for regular NGK V powers.

I think '90-'97 Q45s used a short nose R200 VLSD. And they are strong.

I would use the VG33 cams since they're made for low end torque, which is where you need the most help. They face plant about 4K though.

Metal side DOWN rubber side UP. The philips screws are probably on there so you can't over tighten them and strip the aluminum seeing as there's only about 1/4" of thread in the heads.

The Z31s used an (E)4N71B not an RE4. They fail too. The RE4 is used in the Mazda MPVs and the Subaru SVXs. And yes, they have issues.

I remember there being a TSB from Nissan back in the day that addressed the coolers clogging. It said to replace the radiator because with the design of the cooler they couldn't be cleaned when they clogged. When I replaced an auto on an '88 the cooler was fairly clogged with debris. I put an auto in an '03 Durango that had a factory cooler on it and it was clogged solid. The transmission that was in it was new already but burned up in a few thousand miles. Put a big ass cooler on it and it was fine.

Because it is a major problem. Well, symptom actually... the poorly designed transmission spews a lot of clutch debris through the factory cooler and clogs it because of the fin style, then there is no flow at all and the transmission burns up completely.

No they won't. In the description it says they only have the I6 springs available. A little misleading...

I'd use factory Ishino/Stone head gaskets only. The Fel-Pro gaskets have a tendency to prematurely blow on the VGs.