Kingman

And if you want to get rid of the big black charcoal canister, take it out and put small motorcycle filter on the vent tube from the gas tank.

You got the engine down to the block, pulling it now isn't too bad. I would highly advise you drop the diff though as the oil pan hits it. Emissions is easy. Remove the EGR valve, tube, and activator, its vacuum lines, the air injection valve which is right behind the drivers headlight, the metal tube going from that to the exhaust manifold and to the cat, and finally cut the cat off then send it to WWW.sellyourcatsdirect.com and get $115 for it. Clears up a ton of room in the engine bay.

175-185 typically. Max difference 10-15% between cylinders.

Most of the new GM trucks don't even have disk brakes in the rear.

A few. One was already bad from the get go, the next was a short in the factory harness so not my fault, the next had a resistor fry, and this one now with a different resistor. Its hard to find the problem because it takes over a year before the symptoms start, although I have no explanation for why it suddenly stopped powering up. I got another ECU but its for a turbo car, it powered up and started it. Not a Pathfinder, but I'm replacing the head gaskets on an '85 300zx with a VG33 at 15psi.

Hella yeah dude. I opened the ECU up to fix a burning out resistor and solder joint, and now it won't power up. Should have left it be until I get my new one. Oops. Come get your damn tires!

Very true! Can't beat a stout fully boxed frame that rivals full size trucks.

Broke it. It'll be down for a while unless something miraculous happens.

Deja vu! So glad to hear you got it back man, that's what really counts. I'm still working on replacing my whole stereo again, and my work tools that were stolen. Almost lost my job over that. Seems a little fishy about the neighbor but it might just be coincidence or if its not them they may have tipped some homies off to steal it. You should watch them and craigslist like a hawk and hope someone does something stupid. You did notify the police right?

Finally comepletely done with the lights. Them bitches are bright!

Finally comepletely done with the lights. Them bitches are bright!

I assume at least new hard lines with standard fittings and some work to the brake booster and linkage?

Do you have the link to the write up or did you wing it? Thought about doing it a while back but didn't have a need to. Now that my MC is bad and I see the GM ones are way cheaper it seems like a good time.

What year and model master cylinder did you use?

Decided to put a set of KC Daylighters I had laying around in. Took most of the day being super anal, and I only got one put on. I was wiring while the paint on the one was baking in the sun and totally lost track of time and didn't paint the other.

And I believe that was the last brake change on the stock master cylinder. Lost almost all pressure, can't get any air bubbles to bleed out. The master is hissing really loud too even after I bled it. The brakes have been soft on it for years so I'm not really surprised.

Put new brake pads on it. I replaced them because the drivers side inside pad was almost down to the rivets, all other pads were about 40-50%.

Damn dude that sucks, mine was jacked in 20 mins back on April. I'll keep an eye out if they took it down this way on a joy ride. Hopefully they only want to take everything quick and leave the truck relatively intact like they did mine.

I'll drink to that!

Also got an 88NA Z31 ECU for it that's socketed for Nistune, so all I'd need to do is buy the chip when I put a snail on it. Traded an M30 ECU and pigtail I had for it. So minus shipping, totally free.

So I had two squeaks in the back, kinda thought I did. The real loud one was the hatch latch, the other I just found. The hatch window latch was doing it. I kept hearing it so as soon as I got home I opened the hatch and started twisting on it any way I could. Put a loop of electrical tape on it and silicone spray in the mechanism. Finally its quiet. I hate squeaks and rattles and my truck has quite a few. So far I've knocked out 3, the next one to chase is one in the front fender area. The clanking and chattering in the front suspension will be fixed when I rebuild the whole thing. Vacuumed it out again and it made me remember what else I needed. The screw cover for the center console, every time I clean my truck out I suck that stupid thing into the vacuum because the tabs are broken off of it.

Props to Nissan for making the connectors and sensors bomb proof, but Christ almighty they are a pain in the ass.

From his last thread he said the truck was an '87. Now he says its an '88 and if it is, its a 4-speed. Can put any transmission in from '88-01 Pathfinders or any VG33 Xterra or Frontier.

Wrap it tighter than sheit with electrical tape, it'll hold it till you get up to Davids. Put a dab of RTV over the pin hole for good measure.

If you can't get enough grip on a filter or its way too tight and don't have a filter wrench, take a hose clamp and clamp it tight. Screwdriver on the end and hit it with a hammer. Works great. I've made a few tools for stuff, BMW fan play holder tool, oil filter adapted tightening tool, can tool, and something else. I would upload pics but they were in my toolbox that was stolen.