Kingman

I like a lot of Fords but... Factory Ordered Road Disaster

That should account for the coolant issue. VGs almost never blow a head gasket in a way that mixes coolant and oil.

Is it losing coolant as well?

Many have done it with some luck. Buys enough time until the gaskets can be replaced. For many it's a big job and they need to take the truck to a shop (usually big $$$), or take their time and tackle it themselves over a weekend or something. For others it's easy peasy. You don't want to tighten them too much otherwise yes, you can snap the gasket. As the gaskets shrink the once tight screws are now loose, which is why tightening them often helps. I agree though, that much oil pouring out of the valve cover gaskets would definitely be burning the nostrils.

Put a valve cover grommet behind the passenger side door switch. Needed something hard but rubber coated to space it out so the light wouldn't keep flickering and not scratch the paint at the same time. Cleaned the interior too and buffed out a scratch from one end of the truck to the other as best I could. Noticed it this morning.

One thing you can try if the valve cover gaskets are leaking is tighten the screws. Sometimes that puts enough pressure on the old gaskets to slow the leak pretty significantly.

I've jacked the body up a few inches. Makes things a lot easier.

Did some trail running finally! Went well, some of the poly bushings are starting to squeak though. Definitely didn't give it any mercy. I love how it handles windy roads now. Very little body roll and nice tight steering/suspension.

Put tags on it after almost a year.

Haha and I thought I was the only one that noticed the hood shake...

Agreed. Wasn't necessarily talking about Amsoil, mainly most else. But there's the price per quart to consider as well when thinking about all of the big brand magical oils. Is it really worth the extra how ever many dollars per quart for an engine that isn't used in racing conditions.

Check this out if y'all have time to read. http://540ratblog.wordpress.com/ Personally I don't buy in into big brand names. Too many marketing gimmicks and flawed tests.

Makes sense in a weird sort of way. Ether burns much faster and hotter than gas, so the heat from spraying that in the intake allowed the flooding engine to fire up in addition to the vacuum leak. Vacuum is drawn on the FPR at idle/cranking with the throttle plate closed, when an engine revs it loses vacuum. No vacuum on the FPR at all would cause it to open fully causing a rich condition. If Nissan kept to their old ways, there's a valve in line somewhere in the engine bay for the FPR. For hot starts it holds vacuum fully on the diaphragm so the engine is as lean as possible when starting. Although I've personally never noticed a difference with this valve bypassed. Hope that's the end of it!

Had to destroy mine to get it off. Sometimes they rust on there and it won't easily come off. Not often but it happens.

I don't think they fit the R50 chassis. People running VG30 headers on VG33s have the engines swapped in WD21s.

Because too many retarded Americans have ran things and people over.

They always have fit the engine it's self. Sounds like fun, keep us updated!

Chevron 5/30 conventional. Ranks almost as high as Mobil 1 synthetic in wear protection and it's cheap.

Anytime front suspension/steering parts are changed besides shocks and sway bars it's a good idea to have the truck aligned.

It's fine just go easy with it, not too hard to pre- detonate an engine and the cats don't like it much. However, never use it on a diesel with glow plugs. That's knocking on the Devil's door right thurr. Make sure the timing is in order, and make sure that the ECU is holding the fuel pump on for 5? seconds before shutting off and it has full line pressure.

Laugh? Go buy a hitch mounted winch!

World of difference. I had a really stout clutch in the Z though, the stock shift fork wasn't enough. Sometimes I'd grind gears and snapping them isn't uncommon. It seems to be OK with this clutch but I don't mind overkill.

I need to install on of these to go along with the clutch. I had one for my old Z31. http://www.zspeedperformance.com/Nissan-300zx-Z31-Heavy-Duty-Clutch-Fork-Kit-ZSP1005Z31.htm

Leaking intake manifold gasket?

I drove it normally for 500 miles then hammered on it. I love the clutch. Easy to modulate, good feel, but it'll jerk your head off if you want it to.