Kingman

I'd remove the hold down bolt and try and see if there's any markings where the washer has bit into the slotted part of the distributor and tighten it down right where it was. What year is it?

If you take a punch and put a dent in the top of the FPR you can raise the fuel pressure. But I find it highly unlikely he did that.

It'll track better. When the bushings are shot the LCAs are allowed to move back and forth causing a pull one way or the other on uneven surfaces. When they're really really shot the tires can wobble like mad after smacking a pot hole or something like that AKA "death wobble."

Make sure the pulley doesn't have play in it when you're wiggling the fan as well. If so the water pump is toast. Just sayin'.

When the engine is at TDC on the compression stroke (distributor pointing at the NO.1 contact), the crank keyway should be about 11 o'clock. From there, the furthest left timing mark on the pulley needs be pointing straight up at the timing pointer. The furthest left mark is 0*. If you need to rotate the crank just a hair go for it. Bolt the pulley on. When the engine is running set the timing to 15* BTDC. Spec is 12, yes, but the TBIs benefit from the advance. Take something abrasive and clean that pulley up. You need to be able to clearly see the timing marks on the outer edge.

X2

The NO.1 contact point inside the cap is NOT lined directly up with the wire post on the outside. If you look you can see where the paths between the points and posts go.

I picked up a rear Kaminari wing for a Z31 300zx for $26. Sold it the next day for $400. Got some Nissan manual hubs for like $5, the same day I bought Rancho lift UCAs for $25 and sold them for $130. Wish I'd have kept those though.

MT90 helped my tired transmission a lot. Cut down on the whining and it shifts really good for its age especially when cold. Warm is better yes, but the most notable difference is in the cold. GM Syncromesh is also GL4 and cheaper. I paid $60ish for the MT90 at a local parts store.

Swapped subs again. This time another Obsidian Audio 12" 2ohm DVC and a 1000W Quantum class A/B amp. Upgraded the ground to 2GA, tomorrow I'm going to run OGA power wire with a distribution block to run my PPI speaker amp as well.

I got a gallon of 10W30 for free so I used that for an oil change. After three mornings of untolerable rattling on start up I drained it out.

Holy crap!! My '88 is up to 226k.

Thinner oil should build pressure faster as it flows better when cold. 10W30 takes longer to build pressure in mine than 5W30. Lifters clatter notably longer.

Yes the distributor controls spark and fuel injector pulse. The crank angle sensor is located under the rotor.

Swapped subwoofers. I don't know if anyone knows who Miller and Kriesel is but they're top-of-the-line home audio since the early 70s starting off with designing stuff for major band players and are still used in professional studios today. Anyway, I got lucky and got a free 12" powered sub from my friend's dad. Well the amp didn't work so well so I popped the sub out to run it with my stereo a different way. Usually home stereo is 8ohm but I saw the sub said 4ohm. So I stuck it in the Pathfinder. Now that is some amazingly clear mid-bass.

Sounds like the CAS in the distributor

Like Pat said a fuel pump doesn't make sense since it was a single cylinder misfire. And just because you replaced the coil pack does NOT mean it's ruled out. A sticky injector can be erratic as well.

If it ain't broke don't fix it. A worn idler can make the front end feel much looser than it really is. However in regards to checking stuff I want to point something out. If you're shaking the front end down on a ball joint style set up (tie rod ends and center link connect via ball joints) one tire must be on the ground so you have something to put force against to properly diagnose where any play might be coming from. With both tires in the air, it's easy for play to not show up. Keeping things greased regularly is key to having parts last longer. And honestly with 160k, hopefully easy driving, and good maintenance the front end should be in pretty good shape. LCA bushings will likely kill you on labor. They are not easy. But definitely replace the compression rod bushings. They're bad. I guarantee it. One benefit of new and stiffer torsion bars on the road will be better handing. However stiff bars and Ranchos sounds like a pretty jarring ride. Re-indexing would be a good choice and save a lot of money.

The pump relay should not be buzzing. That's a problem with the relay it's self or power/ground.

Did yours have a lock actuator already? Mine doesn't and neither did Mr.510's.

Wish I'd have read your issues sooner. The meter fuse blowing takes out a lot of things.

Put a relayed headlight set up in and reworked my intake a bit.

Yeah I just put an aftermarket set up in my '88. Auto locks and unlocks with the ignition. Dumb.

Style of bulb. The small ones.

It'd be better to shoot the ether into the air cleaner while it's still bolted on with the tube off. TBIs won't run with the air cleaner removed because of turbulence issues. It's very annoying. The temp sensor for the ECU is down behind the timing cover on the LH cylinder head. It'd be a good idea to ohm that and compare to factory specs. If this is malfunctioning, the ECU won't give the engine the correct AFR to run. As far as the idle controls go... there's 3 different ones. First two are the IACV which is two pintle valves. One holds standard warm idle to a point (but there are adjustments that can be made via two screws) and the other is an idle up solenoid for the load accessories. When you turn the high beams, heater, rear defrost, AC, or turn the steering wheel this ups the idle to stabilize the motor and spin the alternator faster. Both of these are electronically controlled. The third is a cold idle control. It's a wax thermo element that physically pushes on the throttle cam to open the butterfly. As the coolant running by it warms up the wax heats up and releases pressure on the plunger which slowly lowers the idle to normal. Even if all 3 are removed the engine will still run on its own warmed up. Cold you'd want your foot on the gas pedal. And as far as plugs go, it'll run fine with the plugs out of whack which is unlikely to begin with especially from NGK. For future reference, don't waste your money on the Bosch plugs. Standard NGKs are the way to go.