Kingman

Kind of looks like some weird alarm switch

Sheit happens.

If you want to find every leak, put a bottle of UV dye in the oil and run it for a few days. Then poke around at night with a black light. The leaked oil will show up green or orange.

That's probably the oil cooler. Very common leak.

Removed the stereo to send it off for warranty. Only 4 months old. I had an older same brand stereo do the same thing this one did. No bumps for a few weeks... guess it's time to pull the Jeep out of the garage.

Surfing Craigslist and saw this. Thought I'd give it some exposure here. http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/4906739505.html

Definitely possible. I'd bet if you sprayed some water on the belt it'd squeal when you turn the wheel. You can also put some chalk or crayon on the belt, if it stops squealing that one is your problem.

On my '88 SE manual it is the belt beeper. The light on the dash goes out when the beeping stops.

Some you can rotate by hand and others you can't.

I think it's the seat belt beeper

Did the rear brakes today at the shop. I didn't know the left side caliper slide was rusted solid, so that side had a ton of pad left. Shoulda known something would be effed up since SexJelly worked on it last. The slide pin was bent to hell. Some PB, heat, and an air hammer later the caliper came off the bracket. Cleaned and massaged the pin so it was straight and bored the caliper hole to knock the rest of the rust out. Lubed everything up so it's like new. When I replaced the BMC a few months ago I adjusted the rod so there was no play, but sometimes there would be mush in the pedal. Now that problem is gone.

You won't break anything. Eat tires yeah. Get sideways around corners yeah.

Could try taking some fine grit sandpaper to the inside of the pulleys to knock the glaze off. Grippy grippy is no squeaky squeaky.

If there's no paperwork, crawl underneath and look for signs of the transmission being removed. Also a new clutch will have a relatively low engagement point. One that's on its last legs will be up high. Another thing to do while driving is cruise through 2nd gear then dump it in 4th and hammer down. That load will usually make a bad clutch slip.

Smack the starter with a hammer or something while someone is holding the key in the start position. If it cranks over you need a starter.

A stuck caliper can warp the bejesus out of a rotor in a hurry. Some brake shakes don't appear until you're traveling faster, or when the rotors get hot. Other times only light braking makes the shake come out. Literally some people have no idea it's even there as they just putt around town and don't travel fast. It's when I run them down the highway and come to a stop that the vehicle shakes to high heaven. Might not be the caliper its self either, could be the slides seized up. Always lube the slides and contact points with a good brake lube every time you service the brakes. Does it shake the steering wheel side to side or do you feel it more in your butt? There's I've never had ABS shake the vehicle like a brake shake. Just the noise/feel in the pedal and some lurching from the tires locking/unlocking quickly. Although an ABS stop on something with bad calipers (uneven braking power) can be pretty unnerving as it can jet the entire vehicle left to right. However it's not easy to generate a full on ABS stop on dry pavement and it does not feel the same as a warped rotor. there are times that a warped rotor gone intended to rattles the caliper bolts loose. That's noisy, scary, and downright dangerous.

Depends. Some are slip off rotors and some aren't like ours. But we have an on the car brake lathe that turns rotors in one pass, sometimes two if the warp is really bad. About 5 mins a corner. Pretty slick little machine. The regular brake lathe is slowwwwww.

I turn rotors and drums all the time. I need to do the rear brakes on mine. I heard the squealers make contact today. One thing I can appreciate about my Pathfinder and my old one is I've never had a brake shake or pad squeak. But I guess that part has more to do with pad quality than anything. I washed it. I need to wax off some weird sticky tar stuff that's stuck to the lower part of the doors.

Possible faulty O2 sensor reading lean. They are used the most when cruising.

Unfortunately we've had quite a few Escapes and Mariners in with bad transmissions or motors, and every one I've driven had some seriously obnoxious rattles from the dash and ear hatch. They are in frequently for othet annoying problems as well. Maintenance stuff on the older CRVs is a lot easier than the same generation Escapes from brakes to oil changes. I haven't driven the newer ones so I can't comment on those, just the older ones that would be in the $10k price range. The newer CRVs are definitely hard to see out of though. I would honestly put the interior quality the same between the two makes just one doesn't rattle as much.

Escapes and the like are poopy cars. Would definitely stay away from those! CRVs are simple and reliable.

2.5" isn't necessarily too big, just leaves some good room to grow. For forced induction it is actually too small. 3" for turbo VGs is the minimum. Boost response with a full 3" system compared to a 2.5" is stellar.

Disabling the chime is easy. Unplug it from the driver's kick panel.

You removed all cooling from the system? That's a sure fire way to destroy an automatic in a hurry.

You'll need to unplug the TPS in order to time it with a light.