Kingman

You know, I've done what the FSM calls for and they kept coming loose. After that just the normal snug plus some, perfect ever since. As far as the tool goes, it is out there. Before I found one I bought a 4-prong socket and cut two off and ground to fit. When a socket can't be had or made, a punch will do. Tap along the edge of the retaining ring to spin it until it's where you want it.

It'd be best to swap out the entire thing. If it sized up there could be more damage than just the 3rd member.

Yes, the temp sensor doesn't usually throw a code until it fails open. Out of range is still functioning so the ECU doesn't know any better. Ohming it out when cold and hot and comparing to the FSM, along with ohming the harness back is a good idea. There is also an issue with the MAF ground, and there is a new OEM harness you can buy to fix it or fix it yourself. As was said, any leaks after the MAF will cause issues. Distributors are known to cause the issue as well but for the most part they just up and quit for a while.

Yep, all that's needed is reach through the backing plate slot with a screw driver or brake spoon and adjust the shoes up as you spin the drums. Best to do with the wheel on. Freewheeling is out of adjustment, should spin a few times and stop. Not too tight, not too loose.

How's the block the same when the heads don't interchange? Lol just saying.

Maybe they mean the drums are stuck to the hub, which is fixed by a few smacks with a sledgehammer. Typical. Or there's a worn ridge on the edge of the drum not letting them slide off past the shoes, adjusting them back down will solve this. Also typical. Regardless, there needs to be a drag on them when adjusted up properly. You can usually tell if they are out of adjustment if the e-brake is high.

Yes pretty common nowadays. Repeat failures are typical of cheap replacement parts.

If it's rattling and nothing is loose, more than likely it came apart inside and you have a great excuse to put a Magnaflow high-flow one on.

X100. Typical style setup, AN to barbed for cooler hoses. Should be a common item at the parts store.

It'll help feel. You bled it right? The pressure plate is what keeps force against the clutch disk and flywheel. The stronger it is the harder the clutch seats and is more able to resist slipping.

Dampner can play a big part in the pedal feel. And yeah, the pressure plate determines how stiff the pedal feels.

Hmm... performance oriented cars that are designed to engage the driver vs. a 5-speed grocery getter. Hope you get it sorted out.

I moved my 0GA over to the passenger side through the hole the A/C drain hose used to go (no A/C anymore). Getting stuff past the heater box and existing wiring harness is a PITA.

If it's an automatic, there will be a plate where the master cylinder would bolt to and go through the firewall. Drilling a hole in that is easy. If not there's another grommet or plate further down I used.

What would also work is pop the distributor cap off and rotate the crank until the rotor points at the NO.1 terminal. Then install the pulley so the furthest left timing mark is pointing at the timing arrow, or anywhere near it for that matter.

Probably got the outer pulley bolted on wrong. It can go on 6 different ways.

It's common knowledge around here with a little searching. I've put a '98 trans into an '88, and the hot commodity nowadays is to swap an Xterra/Frontier SC trans in. All Pathfinders/Hardbody/Xterra/Frontier with a VG use an RE4R01A. All interchangeable so long as the units are 4x4. Haha yeah, been here all my life. In Camas at the moment

Tidbit: Acura MDX brake pads are identical to the R50's. Same PN and all.

From the AIV? No. Cat was some but nothing drastic.

Did the front brakes this morning at the shop before work. The steering wheel shimmy is still there while driving but it's not magnified 10x when I hit the brakes now. I'm thinking my next step is going to be to remove the flanges and drive it to make sure the CV axles at such an angle from the lift isn't causing it.

Valvoline Maxlife is some great stuff along with Castrol Transmax Import.

DE? It's 100% different... E in a 300zx is pretty much the same minus the intake.

Is it stupid tight to the strut and bar? If not it needs to be. That said, I have seen Moog quality go down hill lately.

Yes it'll swap right in.

Definitely need a new alternator before it kills the rest of the truck lol. I remember once a Z31 had a bizarre charging issue and it was eating alternators. Plus the battery light was dim or glowing on the dash. In the harness, the battery light wire was touching the charge wire. Fixed that and the problem went away for good.