Kingman

That's a screamin deal! Flip it if you don't end up liking it or something.

So to clarify a little... 4/'87-'89 300zx Turbos are short nose CLSD. Only the '88 Shiro Special (1001 made) is VLSD. '90-'96 Turbo and some NAs are all VLSD. They are sort of interchangeable with each other but require some luck and parts changing. A 4/'87-'89 Turbo CLSD carrier will swap in to a WD21. Has been done numerous times. As far as I know, no one has tried to swap one into an R50.

Finally got my lazy ass in gear and started mounting the control box and spool the cable for my winch. Pulled the grill, going to cut it tomorrow at work. I also separated the chrome trim to plasti-dip it black. Before it sees any real use I need to change the battery ends to some less weenie ones, or add a distribution block on the fender well.

I don't have much on the CEL, but check the tires for separating and/or a bent wheel. A wobble felt at that low of speeds is almost always in the tires or wheels.

Wave on the way by Vancouver on I205 or I5!

I run Safeway premium. Truck hasn't pinged once even in 100F+ weather.

Just change the oil in it and again later. If it doesn't help it'll still milk the oil out anyway.

Sigh...

You pretend the blue plug is a headlight bulb and plug it in.

I think the proper fill is 3.875. 4 quarts it is...

Absolutely.

It can take some serious effort and trickery. Make sure all of the AC line support brackets are unbolted.

That's a lot of mixing for these motors. Personally last time I saw coolant mix with oil it was a cracked head. Best of luck... hopefully a gasket found a way to blow between the two.

Either way the heads have to come off and be tested. I doubt the block cracked.

Thermostat will not cause coolant consumption nor heating up only under load. A failing water pump yes, but not coolant consumption. Sorry you wasted money there... As was said, it needs to stay at a shop for a day and pay the rate for a diagnosis. A good shop will pressure test the system, do a block check, and if it passes that they will stick the 5-gas analyzer in the radiator and it will say exactly how many PPM of exhaust gasses is present in the system. Rough idle, loss of coolant consistently, and heating up under load are all signs of a failing head gasket. At this point screw figuring out why it's heating up under load/up hills. The focus needs to be on where the coolant is going. If it's ingesting it, the heads will come off and the head gaskets replaced along with a new timing belt and water pump etc. It could be it's been overheated and blew a head gasket, yes. However the damage is done. Fixing the overheating issue (if it ends up being unrelated) is, at this point, wasting money.

Yes. Rotate the engine to TDC and make sure the rotor is pointing at the NO.1 point on the cap. Unfortunately parts house distributors have a high failure rate... Also. Clutch? Was there a crank sensor on top of the bell housing that may have gotten messed up, pinched the wire, etc?

If weak spark is the issue starting fluid will not help. If it does, it isn't a spark issue. The distributor may have gone tips up. Definitely check all grounds. Is the check engine light on? If so pull the codes...

2k pulling a hill is not okay for these motors. They aren't V8s. Most of us here can't pull a hill in top gear and keep speed. 4th or 3rd is pretty typical. That being said... along with the ignition tune-up stuff have you checked/replaced the fuel filter, O2 sensor, and checked the timing? Also a good throttle body and intake clean usually helps as was said above.

With your foot to the floor it won't ever start, that signals the ECU to cut spark and fuel to the engine. Flood clear mode. Pull the distributor cap off and inspect. If it's worn out along with the rotor that could be your issue. Also check for spark through the plugs, not just the cap. How does the engine crank? Normally or sound funky? If so crank the engine with the distributor cap off and make sure the rotor turns consistently. If it doesn't you have a slipped timing belt which more often than not means a rebuild as the valves kissed the pistons.

Sounds like dry bearings, or worn out washed out grease. I would inspect and re-pack them first thing and make sure the grease seal isn't leaking or dry. If there's any sign of trouble replace them.

Sheering the pin and set screws off is definitely odd... never seen one do that even with looser-than-all-get-out bearings.

Oh my God haha I'm so trying that!

ECU does not take a reading. And it is just a dummy light, only the '86.5-87s had an actual pressure gauge. I have an Autometer sending unit in the factory spot.

They take 4 quarts not 5.

So here's my install. Had to to cut the sides down and the bottom lip off, as well as notch the corner out for the upper radiator hose and overflow hose. The bottom is held in by some hefty zip ties, the top with real hardware. I used foam to seal the top to the radiator because things tend to fall in between and down when working on stuff. I either want to re-cut a new shroud to fit closer to do the radiator or use some thin rubber mat and attach it to the radiator so as air is being pushed through driving down the road they open and when the fan is on they close up to direct the rest of the exposed surface area heat through the fan. The fan doesn't draw nearly as much amps as a Taurus fan and moves plenty of air. Overall it does its job without issue. Stanza fans fit really well also.