Kingman

The Econ button shuts the AC off too.

Well not necessarily out of hand per-se... there's some vehicles it takes hours to align properly and is a tedious and maddening process. Others it's a minimum of a half hour including setting the machine up and shaking the front end down to make sure it's even alignable. In that case they make a few bucks but generally break even. Though some shops will let a vehicle leave way out of whack and still take your money the same.

$100 to set the toe and let it go... nah.

Load has more to do with it wear and tear than RPM.

Should have more caster on the right side than on the left side to fight the crown of the road. It may seem to wander a bit to the right. It'd also be nice if they brought the left side camber down a smidge. Overall it's fine though.

The first drop is overdrive, the second is torque converter lock up. Interesting yours doesn't shift the moment you flip the switch like mine does. Ever since I've had this rig I've thought it holds 3rd too long on a downshift but then I was thinking to myself just how much I hate autos that dive right back into overdrive which forces you to mat the gas again then repeat. So I'll take it.

Mine holds 3rd for a long time as well before finally settling back down into overdrive. If you want it to instantly shift, flip the overdrive on/off switch real quick.

Warm it up and check the fluid with the engine running in neutral. I'm assuming you're doing it that way but just making sure. It may be just be low. If it is add a half a quart of ATF at a time until it's between the cold and hot marks then take it for a drive. You could also try tightening the pan bolts, might take care of the leak. Besides a bad trans, a filter that isn't seated properly will suck air and cause some serious slipping. If all fails you may want to start looking for a trans. But given you used it for example heavy towing it may have simply done it in...

There is nothing else you can do at this point other than replace the amp with an aftermarket one like I mentioned in one of your many other threads. For future reference, try and keep all of the same-topic posts in one thread. There's no need to post a new thread every time you have another question regarding the same thing.

Makes sense... thicker oil simply takes longer to travel to its destination.

I believe resistance of the plugs vs. power of the ignition system plays a part as well.

...replace the fan clutch.

It's pathetically small...

And a mix of torx, philips, and 10mm fastners...

Started to replace the clutch hydraulics on my '88. I stopped when the flare nut on the bottom of the damper started to round off because it's so stuck and rusty. I'll grab some tools from work tomorrow and finish it up. It will come off.

I'm hoping due diligence is done in finding the problem, not just outright saying it needs a transmission even though it might. Losing 3rd and 4th is a typical internal failure with the RE4s albeit more common on the older models.

Too thin. Synthetic is less viscous than dino as it is, that's basically water.

Yessir

Oh wow... You really think that was helping Kingman?

I had one of my rear coil spacers crack on me. When talking to Fleurys, he said they shouldn't be used with the rubber isolators as that adds excess pressure to the outside walls of the spacers when everything is compressed.

Let's just say they won't sound as good as they're capable of but most people don't notice much.

That's pushing it for the doors especially when the window is down. Some adapters would be good to have so you can space the speaker out away from the sheet metal if need be. Don't know about the roof.

That will require wiring in power and ground cables and, depending on how much you want to spend, a new head unit with proper RCAs. If you get an amp with high level input, you can keep your factory head unit and use the existing wiring for the signal but you'll still need power and ground cables. The former is way better for sound quality. Clean signal, higher fidelity head unit, tunability, etc.

Cheap rotors will do that to you. As will very uneven lug nut/rotor to hub torque. Most shops use the generic white box rotors and drums to keep the price down, they're hit or miss at best. I can understand why he doesn't want to replace the rotors again - it's quite a bit of work with the set up we have. They don't slide off. However warranty is warranty, if he's not willing to make it right again then he must not care about keeping your business. If anything a quick turn of the rotors on the car along with a solid lug nut torque will probably solve the issue. Hopefully the calipers were inspected and everything was well lubed. We have to turn every set of new drums we get before installing them to make sure there are no comebacks for shake or pedal pulsation. Rotors aren't as bad. Unfortunately it's hard to find good quality parts these days at a price the customer is willing to pay for.

Washed the '04 and noticed the effing clear coat is bubbling on the hatch above the glass. Wtf.