Kingman

Not true

Transmission/radiator issue, and timing chain. If it rattles and howls like a mother bear when you start it be prepared to have to fix that with the updated stuff.

Does it change with engine load or just RPM? If it changes with load it's likely a bottom end issue and you can isolate the problem cylinder by disabling it and removing the load (unplug coil packs one at a time)

Any drivability issues? The PCV system is basically a controlled vacuum leak, some cars are super sensitive to it and can cause fuel mileage to drop considerably. Also I assume you aren't in a smog area and you replaced the PCV valve with one with the same flow rate...

If it's just a poof it's not a big deal at all honestly.

The deflector idea didn't go over so well. Dogs were playing and knock my over, it went flying, and broke. So I'm going to find another one and try PVC or ABS plastic cement for more strength. Haven't touched the basket yet other than measure and mark some stuff.

It's not all that uncommon to find an extra or two in seal kits. Sometimes it comes in handy when you accidentally screw one up.

Best way to get them out is use a small socket that just fits into the injector bore and doesn't contact the pintle ad tap it out from the bottom.

First thing to do is check the fuses and relay. If those are all good, lay under the tank while someone turns the key on and smack it with a hammer. If the pump comes on its either a bad pump or bad connections on top of the tank.

Blocking the lines off (line clamps) will entirely seal off air past that point. If you did that and the brake pedal was hard as a rock, the issue is not there or the ABS module. If it was still mushy, the issue is the master cylinder or ABS module. More likely the master cylinder. If the brake pedal was hard after pinching the lines off, but still mushy after bleeding again, I'd suggest adjusting the rear drums up if that's what your truck has for rear brakes. That's commonly mistaken for air in the lines.

1800lbs should be just fine. If anything drop the pan and do a service and install an auxiliary cooler. I'd suggest staying out of overdrive as much as you can, however it'll probably do that on its own anyhow with the weight.

If they're fine run it

Yes the little 10mm bolts and the heads need to be popped up because of the dowels.

Well the crank gets the most oil first, if any were to go it'd be the NO. 2 rod bearing since it's the last in line to get oil. If it was just idling it may not be all that bad but I'd definitely expect some wear. If you can see copper it's time for a rebuild. Um however, just throwing bearings in it isn't a good idea... the crank needs to be taken to the machine shop to be checked and polished. If you're planning on Nissan bearings, they are sold "undersized" which means the crank needs to be turned. Many aftermarket brands sell them standard size so if the crank is fine to just be polished you'll be alright there. Don't forget the plasti-gauges to measure tolerances.

Dear God man that's bad! That doesn't happen often...

Anything to not cut the hose

If you're lucky they don't. If you catch a valve partway open they'll jump. It doesn't hurt anything but it is annoying. Yes, Nissan (Atsugi) pumps are getting very hard to find. Check ebay?

It's not unheard of. Do you own line clamps? If you can pinch off the 3 brake soft lines you'll be able to tell by whether or not the pedal still drops.

Easy. Pump the pedal up while someone cracks the flare fittings loose on the master just like you would at a caliper or wheel cylinder. Air is easiest to bleed out at the highest point. Sure, you can pump like mad to push those air bubbles all the way down to the wheels or bleed at the master and be done with it. Up to you. Stands to reason that if the only variation here is whether or not air has entered the system, and there is a problem after air has entered the system, there is still air in the system. Pumping the pedal with the lines open isn't exactly building any pressure to push a stuck bubble out. Should what you've done work fine? Yes, not always. I'd double check like was mentioned grab a helper and do the bleed the old fashioned way. In fact do it a lot. If you have rear drums make sure they're adjusted up properly to bring back some pedal feel.

New or old a loose belt is a loose belt. Take it back and have him tighten them properly. That'll take care of the squeal unless there is a bad bearing somewhere.

Probably still have air. Did you bleed the master cylinder and ABS valve first? Grab a helper and do a proper brake bleed.

DETT fits... there's a thread and a few videos on here. It's tight. RB is an inline VG that's less reliable and hard to find parts for.

Well not particularly... but it's much easier. It's a son of a b*tch otherwise but doable.

I wish I could put a shift kit in to get rid of my first gear harsh shift. It's obnoxious.

I picked up a complete rack with deflector and basket a few months ago for cheap and it's been hanging around waiting to go on. Overall this project took me about a month to do because I only have a little bit of time on the weekends and I'm picky. One weekend for mock up, one for cutting the tubes, one for painting everything, one for the actual install, one for narrowing the deflector, etc. I used 5/16x18 button head allen bolts for this and rivet nuts encased in 3M weather strip adhesive to make sure nothing leaked. I didn't realize a 17/32" drill bit would be so difficult to find, never did find one actually. I ended up drilling the holes with a 35/64" as it's just a c**t hair bigger. I did accidentally tear into the headliner a little on one hole though. Whoops. Oh well 1 out of 14 ain't bad I guess. For me, notching the front foots wasn't necessary since I almost never open the sunroof and besides, the basket will sit on top of it like the Xterras do anyhow. I took 2" out of the deflector to match the 2" I took out of the cross bars. I mocked it up and propped it up so when I filled the gap with JB Weld the factory bow remains. Let it set up overnight and sanded it down. I did paint it today but didn't take a picture of that. You can kind of tell where the pieces were joined back together if you look at it just right but not that bad. I may redo it, depends on how much it bothers me. I still haven't entirely decided on how I'm going to go about narrowing the basket though. There's a lot going on there.