Kingman

Before you let it fire up, it'd be a good idea to pull the fuel pump fuse or coil wire and crank it for a while to get some oil pumping around.

You'd feel some side to side and up and down play in the wheel if the bearing is toast. Wiggle it around when it's up in the air with the tire on. They usually don't bang and pop suddenly but it's possible, sounds more like a CV issue like was said above.

You can also grind out the upper strut bolt holes to make them slotted if the new bolts don't give enough positive camber back.

I would recommend cleaning the MAF and plug pins, and making sure there is no air in the coolant lines going to the wax cold idle valve. Also make sure the air cleaner is tight on top of the throttle body and there's no leak there.

Ohm the Cylinder Head Temp Sensor and the sub harness. Sounds like it's reading wrong and telling the ECU the truck is in the antarctic.

You'd need the engine wiring harness, transmission wiring harness/body harness, ECU, TCU, TPS, possibly transfer case, and possibly the cross member. There's probably a few more little extras to swap as well. It'd be best to have a donor vehicle. The downside is the 4 speeds are not as reliable and definitely require a large aftermarket cooler to prolong their life, unless you bought an automatic from a 2000+ Xterra or Frontier. The 3 speeds are bulletproof.

Any slop in a U-Joint is bad, most of the time you can feel it. Every now and then you have to pull it out and turk it by hand and my feel for any binding.

Sounds like a U-Joint

I don't think so? Best thing to do is drop the tank and inspect for rust.

Two tensioners you get to from underneath the truck. 12mm and 14mm I believe. Make sure the belt is just loose and not too thin or cracked before tightening them up.

It's on the passenger side towards the front of the motor. Round with hoses attached to it. If it's leaking it's an easy fix.

Bad ECU Temp Sensor sounds probable.

Honestly it's probably leaking just enough to where you can see it because it sat so long. Just about anything will do that. Before tearing into it for such a small leak, more like sweat, I'd clean the piss out of it and drive it and re-check. The leak at the bell housing looks like a rear main leak.

Everything in the front end us usually trash after years of wheeling and abuse. Centerlink, tie rod ends, idler arm, tension rods, ball joints... I see the tie rod end jam nut is completely loose, that's not okay at all. Did you do that trying to make it go down the road straight again? If not that means it was already loose and the twisting the center link does when turning has backed the adjuster off. Blowing out tension rod bushings will definitely make the truck track like crap and wobble over bumps.

Me either. They lunched my buddy's Sprinter motor a few weeks ago. Forgot to tighten the drain plug. We've had a few of their mishaps come though my shop. Three in the last year actually, one being a Subaru diff they forgot to put fluid back in after draining it. And just about every car that comes in with a JiffyLube sticker has an oil filter that's so tight it gets destroyed coming off. Pisses me off.

Oil pressure sending unit and the distributor pretty much.

Is it just the picture, or is that big black chip on the bottom middle blown up?

Carrier bearing? Only the Pickups have those.

That's air in the system due being low on coolant. The higher revs force more circulation through the heater core and thus more heat is put out.

I did the cheap motor mount with a welded chain thing many years ago. Havent had a problem since.

There's no losing extra coolant, it's designed to overflow into the overflow bottle. If it's dripping out you have a leak and it needs to be addressed plain and simple. A leak that mostly stops when the level drops is likely the radiator leaking at the top of the tank. You could have air in the heater core now which is causing your low heat issue, it's pretty common. Downloading the FSM will help you diagnose any problems in the dash, if any. I'd start with addressing the leak and fully burping the system. That needs to happen anyway... regardless if there's an issue within the dash.

So, kind of sounds like the intelligent communication module freaked out. Have you tried unhooking the battery for 5-10 minutes and retrying?

Oil pressure sending unit is on the RH side of the block above the starter. There should be an orange plug on or near it. As far as turning over by hand, if the transmission is in neutral there isn't much resistance from it. On a fully assembled and good working engine you should feel it be light and smooth and then a turn or so of resistance as a piston comes up on compression stroke. It'll be a pattern. In your case you are probably feeling the bent valves hit the pistons repeatedly since the timing belt isn't on and the cams are amuck. I have no clue why you're even attempting such a thing at this point in time... Now, when you pull the heads off and the bottom end is still hard to turn over then it's toast.

I have mine anti theft rigged to cut power to the ECU. They still stole it... hooked it up to a makeshift tow truck and yarded it down the road to their stripping site. They never did get it started!

That's All AIV stuff. Emissions crap can get rid of it entirely... that rats next sucks big time. MY1PATH posted a great thread detailing with pictures all of the TBI components and their funtions. It's pinned I believe, have a look. Given the way the top end looks... I still say find a good motor. With frequent oil changes and a lack of heat the top end would never look like that. That much sludge is not a good sign. If you want you can PM me and we'll talk about that harness. I've built a few of them.