Kingman

Sounds like a bad Crank Angle Sensor. Suddenly not running, no spark, probably no fuel injector pulse... classic. The ECU will have a code if it's the issue but may not trip the CEL. You wouldn't see it anyway since the engine doesn't run. If it sounds fine when cranking it's not the belt. With as much cranking as you've done, you'd notice the banging, thwacking, locking up, and lack of compression.

Readjusted the wheel bearings. Perfect.

Now every time I'm at the junkyard I'm going to specifically look. I have only seen black on VG33s.

I've seen a ton of black valve covers. Mostly all TBIs were black as well as MPFIs. However, Z31 NA and D21 valve covers are silver or bronze.

Yep, that sums it up. It is mostly a gimmick, but a slightly larger one can improve the driving experience. We all know the actual power isn't there past a certain threshold, which is why being able to get up and go with a smaller amount of skinny pedal makes things a little more livable. It's like Ford with tuning their drive-by-wires so aggressively and touchy. Makes the vehicles feel more powerful even though they aren't. It shows when you try and command more power but nothing is there.

I had to Google it to see what style the R50s use because I boggled at the price. Yeah, that sucks. WDs are like $5 a side.

Sway bars rattle like crazy when they're even a little loose.

Yours must be a diesel?

Mine frayed and stuck as well. Shut 'er off as soon as it happened and limped it home loading the engine down as much as I could to avoid the revs. Yeehaw.

I noticed a nice improvement with my KA throttle body with a Z31 intake. Better throttle response and mid range grunt, driving around I don't even need more than an 1/8 of the pedal to get up and go pretty quick.

If that doesn't do anything, test the ECM Coolant Temp Sensor per the FSM in the garage section and see how that's doing. They can fail along with the O2 sensor without the ECU throwing a code.

Pop the wheel off and bang on the caliper or drum to break everything loose. If the passenger tire spins the drive train is fine.

I pulled everything apart and there's no sign of any wear/scoring/heating. They have maybe 50 miles on them, the last two or three miles from home is when I felt it. Not sure what "brinelled" means, but everything looks AOK. Google it. Nope, none of that.

Dee dee dee here forgot the two small screws for the wheel bearing retaining plate when I did the front end. The bearing backed off a bit and let me know by wobbling on the way home. Sad thing is a year later I remembered exactly where they were sitting. All is well, no damage.

And if not, take a look at the parts store's hose collection. Something will fit if you cut.

Have someone hold the flywheel in place while you torque the bolt. Or impact tight.

I ended up having to redo the whole shebang at the battery. Corrosion and vibration from a poor design (everything just hanging off the battery post) did the connections in. Hitting bumps or turning created issues.

If you don't have access to an impact gun, a ratchet with a cheater bar braced on the ground or whatever works just as well. One tap of the starter and the bolt is loose. Best to have someone hold the socket in place so it doesn't fly off. To tighten it, a large flat head or wide 1/8" or so thick flat bar to brace the flywheel works fine. The starter puts more torque on the thing than 130ft/lbs. If the belt was recently replaced the crank pulley should just slide right off. They're not the press on type but they can rust in place over time. Have you inspected the bypass hose? It's right above the thermostat housing, 90* tube. They're known to burst. Have to checked the power steering fluid? If it's too low, that notch feeling is air entering the system which will kill the pump and steering box in no time. I prefer multiple belts as well. Makes diagnosing strange noises easier.

Sounds like bad master cylinder. Clutch disk wouldn't have an affect like this. Pressure in the system is what forces the pedal back to rest. If there's a leak or no pressure being built by the master cylinder, the pedal won't come back up.

I really don't remember what that's for. I kinda think it's the alternator charge harness though. Does it have two fairly large white wires?

Looks like goopy old die-electric grease. Plug it back in?

Works just fine.

Check for power at the coil. There's also one wire, red I think, with a single black connector that runs from the fender well over to the distributor harness. Make sure that's good. Make sure the distributor harness is plugged in.

Consider this about the oxygen sensor. The ECU is looking for readings from it that were within a certain parameter and the readings are meant to vary. If the sensor's output no longer varies but is within the parameters, the ECU won't see that as an issue but the information being given is still bad. The light coming on could be from the sensor quitting for a second here and there. A can of brake cleaner will expose vacuum leaks. When it's sucked into the engine it will make it race for a few seconds.

Been looking around down here in the Vancouver/Portland area.