Kingman

I assume you've got the jetting correct?

Swap them and see if it runs any different. Carb or TBI? The Hitatchi carbs have vacuum secondaries that are known to fail, and the electronic feed back ones are pretty finicky sometimes.

150 is pretty low but shouldn't be enough to cause a hard misfire. I'd do a leak down on it, and another wet compression test. How does the plug look?

Looks good!

Nice Found a 1-1.5" around rust divot in my LR fender well. It's over 1/4" deep and I'm pretty sure there's more under what I can easily pick away. Think I'm going to prep the rust areas I can find and swing it by my step dad's so we can fix it all up. He's stellar with body work. Probably going to end up filling in and re-painting all of the fender wells. I now there's one minor spot under the rear seat and a bubble in the hood. Not bad for an '88 but still frustrating...

Got a huge basically brand new deep cycle battery for it for peanuts. It barely fits... but now I don't have to swap batteries from the Niner every time I want to move or drive it. And it's Costco, so free three year replacement no questions asked.

Superseded part numbers?

That sucks. Doesn't look like it caused "severe" damage to what they claim. Have you opted for another quote?

Sounds like the CAS inside the distributor. Notorious for heat soaking and failing, then working fine when it's cooled off. When it won't start, check for spark at one of the plugs and if none check for any output voltage at the CAS plug where it meets the engine harness when cranking. If that checks out fine, listen for the fuel pump. It should prime for 5 seconds when you turn the ignition to on. If not test from there, if all power to the pump is good then beat on the gas tank and the pump may come to life. If it's getting fuel but no spark, you'd smell the flooded engine in the exhaust. A faulty ECM Coolant Temp Sensor will cause hard starting when warm as it tends to flood the engine and throw the timing curve and injector latency out of whack.

It's on the low side but with city driving not really surprising. The 3 miles to work does not help any since the engine is probably still in open loop mode by the time you get there. That's the worst thing for EFI engines is running in open loop from start up to shut off as the ECU is running off richer base maps.

Hubs makes ZERO sense. Open diff, if one hub doesn't engage that CV axle will spin and the locked one will not as an open diff takes the path of least resistance. Essentially you wouldn't have 4-wheel drive. It would though if you have a LSD or front locker. Sounds like its possibly the diff, or as B said, a problem with the tension rod bushings allowing the force of the pulling tire to yank the. It's a similar problem/feeling with FWD cars that have a bad LCA bushing. Putting it up in the air and feeling each tire is a good idea. I'm amazed the shop hasn't done it yet. Frankly I don't think you should be paying a dime for "it might be this but we aren't sure so let's waste your money trying" jobs...

Yes, make sure the engine is cold before you remove the water pump belt though and don't turn the steering wheel with the pump belt off. Hopefully the timing belt tensioner is in good shape?

Subaru BRZ/Scion FRS.

Wow, prices are sky high! $300 for changing spark plugs, wires, and fuel filter? Should be $100 in labor tops. Parts about $100. Almost a grand for front struts? Maybe $500. Rear shocks? Not even an hour labor... Under $100. Valve cover gaskets are understandable since you need to remove the intake plenum. BUT the plugs are right there at that point so the cost should be even cheaper. Pads and rotors could be a ploy to make money even though it's not needed. Where I work a full boat front brake job including new calipers, pads, turning rotors, repacking wheel bearings, and clean/adjust rear if applicable is under $500. You, sir, are being ripped off in my opinion.

No they won't. Nothing about a DE(TT) will swap.

Around 7psi with 7.8:1 pistons/T3 turbo, then down to 5psi in 88-89 with 8.1:1 pistons/T25 turbo. Stock fuel system on a Z31 maxes out around 13psi. Same point the turbo blows nothing but hot air with the factory pump, 270cc injectors, and tune. NA engines run 180cc injectors. NA 9:1 pistons are the typical go-tos for a mild build running that boost with an intercooler. Around 11psi is when detonation starts without one. Z32s are entirely different.

At that mileage why not swap in a good used low mileage transmission instead of fiddling with the old one? You could very well open up a can of worms with it.

Spray some brake cleaner or starting fluid on the suspected areas. The engine will rev if it sucks any in. Are you talking about the anti-backfire valve on the front of the throttle bode under the air cleaner that's whistling?

There's a few on the intake manifold, one on the firewall? Been a long time...

Check the grounds. Almost all of the engine sensors share a common ground. Poor connection and many things can go gunnywaggle on you. We've also been having a slough of injectors going bad on the TBI engines lately.

Well, cheap Chinese sensors like that are known to be horribly unreliable. To be honest you'd be better off spending more on a quality part. The problem may not come back after that. I would, the next one fails again, check the wiring harness for any shorts/damage/loose pins between the sensor plug and ECU.

Guys he already replaced all of the rear bushings and control arms. Are you sure the bolts are tight? Is the wobble shaking the steering wheel?

I wouldn't believe that for a second!

Glad to got it fixed! Stick pintles do happen on occasion...

It would throw a code if it was failed entirely. The engine doesn't have to run for the ECU to pick up on certain things, 3-4 cranks is usually all it takes. It knows it needs a reference signal from the sensor. It knows the engine is cranking because of the start signal from the starter. With closed loop sensor stuff, yes, the engine needs to be running.