Cuong Nguyen

Unplug the battery for a bit and reinstall. Make sure the connections are good. Let the ecu relearn.

Does anyone know how the antenna is secured down on the fender? I have the whip and not the motorized one. Mines just sitting in the hole.

Yeah I agree too. It's been done too.. Whats his face.... L and P guy who use to do the modified centerlink before he bellied up.

I replaced the trunk struts today and bout some more guages. I just need to find a place to mount them.

Rockauto.com is a start and use the discount codes.

What brand did you get off Amazon? When shopping for parts online, Rockauto is my goto source unless I need OEM parts.

I think the driver side transmission frame bracket will interfere with the collector on the headers. If you have broken studs and require extracting, then you're looking at a lengthy laborous repair. You are looking at least 1000 dollars. Do it all in one shot.

Hmm interesting. All the fsms state 9-11 psi a idle and I asked around and everything says the same thing. 300z guys.

There's less than a handful here but you can definitely find the threads. Not a lot of folks specialize with turbos but it's doable. Most of my turbo info and engine builds come from z31performance.com

Clink the link that Slarti posted. It's all the service manuals.

I might have ripped it a long time ago when I pulled the motor so I'll have to cut the loom apart. Thanks!

What model Guage for the oil pressure?

Sounds like a weak or dead battery.

I bought the Equus electric model. $50. Only thing additional is the wire to hook it up. The send has another prong so you can hook up your stock oil pressure dummy light to it. I'm still trying to find where my wire is to test it. Our VG30e reads 9 PSI at idle and I think 55-65 psi at 3200 RPMS no load. I'm running a z31 oil pump that is suppose create more oil pressure (FSM states 11 PSI at idle) but I do not think the pump itself is doing that so probably using the pump was just a waste (the timing belt covers and water pumps do not fully seal the timing belt--mix and match parts)

As for your alternator, Since you have a new one in, you should be okay for a long while. It doesn't hurt to have a spare with you. I'm not sure where the front or rear breather tubes vent to but it doesn't hurt to get them out higher or somewhere it doesn't ingest water. Either way works for your ECU, it's total preference. Definitely must do as these pathfinders are getting harder to source in the junkyard. For me, if I'm water to soak my ECU, I'm already in trouble.

Your power light will flash 13 times or so letting you know it went into limp mode when you start it up.

Installed the new oil pressure sender. I kind of freaked out and thought my gauge wasn't reading at idle until I gave it some gas. I just need to hard mount it now.

Can someone tell me where I can find the oil pressure sensor wire? I can't seem to locate where it originates from since it's not where my sensor use to be.

What the fluid level? Color? Smell? How many miles? When was the last fluid flush? Are you running an aftermarket transmission cooler?

Welcome! Sometimes those pesky electrical issues can make or break someone

It should work. Slight differences but it will run.

Ordered a new TPS, new rear sway bar link, and new rear gas lift shocks for the trunk.

Any auto parts store will give you an alternate to use.

It's been running fine as I've been driving it for almost 800 miles now. It was just odd that all of a sudden it was loud rapid tapping/ticking for a few minutes and went away. I may pull the valve train off again and check things over again and see the cause. I'm going to install the oil pressure gauge later this week so I can monitor how the oil flow is.

When I first did the swap, I couldn't remember if swapping out the MC Made a difference. Also do you have lsd or open rear diff?