Cuong Nguyen

Started the truck the other day in over a year since I tore the bottom end down for another rebuild. I really wanted to be sure if it would fire up and build oil pressure before I invest anymore time into the truck. While priming the oil, I found out I forgot to tighten up the oil cooler banjo bolts on the transmission. Once I saw oil pressure was building up, I hooked up the fuel pump fuse and cranked her some more until a loud roar echoed in the garage as it filled with unburned fuel.

Battery load tested? Battery Wiring and connections clean and tight? Starter relay? Check starter by bypassing relay. No codes? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

You cannot go wrong with autometer but I have the ones O'Reilly sells. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Yes. Anything that deals with the vacuum lines could. I'd check for cracked lines and hoses. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Did some welding. Still learning. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

You probably bent some valves taking in water and your engine oil looks like milkshake. Did your ecu get wet? Take it apart dry it out and hope for the best but your chances are slim pending any engine damage. Trying to start it after it took water in without following the proper course of action is a bad nono and causes more damage. You need to remove spark plugs, pull fuse to fuel pump, drain oil, replace oil and filter, replace air filter, crank it over and watch water shoot out if the holes. Replace oil and filter again until it looks oil. Cold water rushing in could also warp some stuff too and may cause a headgasket leak. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Reuse your mounts or buy new ones of yours. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Pulled the welder out of the pathfinder and found out that weight of it bent the housing but everything inside looks OK. I'm missing tips so I'll need to get some new ones from Harbor Freight. I'll also need to hit up Home Depot for a new 3 prong welder outlet to replace the 4 prong one in the garage. My hard and soft gas lines are dangerously close to my header so I'll need to figure out a way to reroute them since the car accident caved in my passenger frame rail. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Stumbled upon this very informative thread on one of the Skyline forums in regards to the re4r01a https://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=i0i08gkn0qv6vg0fpmh0qlgsb4&topic=159148.0

I got the bugger to finally line up. It was a damn balancing act for sure. The bottle jack on the jack did the trick. I just need to refab the RR engine bracket to fit my bent frame. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Picked up some 1k rated ratchet straps from HF that were on sale so I could pull the transmission crossmember into place. Using the straps and pry bars I managed to get the bolts to fit through. I just need to pick up a couple washers to bring it back up and call it done for that section. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

I want to say this is normal until the fluids warm up. You night have to block the radiator for Temps to stay in operating range. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Thanks for the photo confirmation. So how I have the mount orientated is the correct way now. I guess it's just a matter of me pulling the right bank of the engine and transmission rearward so the right side of the transmission bracket will line up. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

YESSIR!

backstory: 2wd converted to 4wd. I left the passenger side transmission crossmember frame member intact. I cut off the driver side bracket and welded in the bracket from a 4wd. From NPORA on facebook, someone pointed out and showed me the correct orientation of the transmission mount but I for the life of me cannot get it to line up with the holes. The only way it seems to work is when I reverse the orientation. Can someone with a 4wd and 2wd go under and snap some shots of the frame mounts and transmission mounts and get some quick measurements of the bolt holes on the frame mounts?

That is correct. I should have clarified that the gearing between the vq35de tranny and the VG33 tranny are the same. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Supercharged Xterra and Frontier and the RE4R01A behind the vq35de are HD variety. Same gearing and with very miniscule differences. Shaft spline count should be the same. Maybe slight bellhousing differences but swap bellhousing tc and flex plate. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

A long skinny punch and a jack or blocks of wood to keep the door square. The harbor freight punches worked for me. Along with using a long 3/8ths socket extension. You do not want the door's weight hanging on the pin. Lube the overloving piss out of them. Get some rubber hoses and cut a slit in the middle of them from one end to the other and line the door edges with it by slipping it over. This will prevent you from scratching and scraping up the paint while you man handle the door. An extra set of hands is great unless you are tall and have long arms and some strength. These doors are heavy. Once you get the doors off and pull out the old brass hinge bushings, clean up the hinge holes with a dremel to make sure the new bushes can fit in. They may be wallowed out oblong. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

I have done a rebuild and it's really easy to grasp once you slowly take it apart. You will need to come up with some home garage ingenuity to remove the snap rings for the clutch hubs. I used various sizes of C clamps. Look up RE4R01A on here and you will see the photos. You will need a reliable caliper to measure shims and disks, and a H gauge. I bought my kit at rockauto and would not rocommend this particular kit as the steel disks were not the same size I was needing and the filter was not cut or stamped properly. You will want to measure all the current shims and disks as well as take lots of pictures so you don't forgot what goes where. Considering how you have excessive debris, I would see if you could get your torque converter cleaned out otherwise you're spewing all that junk back in your rebuilt transmission. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Transmission is mated up. Issue now is the engine and transmission assembly is not square with the frame for my crossmember to line up with the bolt holes. Sonuvagun this thing is heavy. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Tranny fell off my jack and went boom. Transmission fluid everywhere. No cracks luckily just some sharp edges that need to be cut filed down. I though I was going to be okay with out the straps on but it caught my header and of it went. I'm going to try again Thursday on my day off. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Egr. Exhaust gas recirculation. Emissions. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

I've been running atf in mine. Regardless, it sounds like the pump may be on its way out or the belt is slipping but leaning towards pump. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Unfortunately he no longer works there from I last read. You would be fine with gates timing belt kit. Rockauto has great prices and discounts codes. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Yeah 185 seems low. I recall seeing somewhere online someone posted a graph of where the optimum temperature is for the motor. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk