Cuong Nguyen

Damn transfer case is seeping oil. damnit.

Should be plug and play. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Yeah it was down for a good bit for another bottom end rebuild and resealing in the transfer case. Thanks, it still needs some more attention but it rolls and stops so that's good for now. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Replaced the old dirty cargo mat with a new one of the same kind. Haha Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Your 4wd switch is the one next to the speedo sensor towards the tailend of the case. One of those plus to pictured is your neutral switch. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

I washed it the other day. All mud here in south Texas. At least I won't have dirt and mud in my eyes when I'm working under the truck. I'm keeping an eye out for a slow leak on the transfer case. I may have to smear sealant on the edges if it's seeping out still. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

The earlier tx10 chains had a width of about 2 inches and the newer ones had something close to 1.5 inch chains from what I remember. I didn't ever look into it much further since I already had the stronger one.

Try hitting up the Facebook page if you haven't yet. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Zombie thread revival. So Adam, you still have those pictures. I'm just curious to see the amount of material caught versus what I saw when I did my rebuild.

Started the truck the other day in over a year since I tore the bottom end down for another rebuild. I really wanted to be sure if it would fire up and build oil pressure before I invest anymore time into the truck. While priming the oil, I found out I forgot to tighten up the oil cooler banjo bolts on the transmission. Once I saw oil pressure was building up, I hooked up the fuel pump fuse and cranked her some more until a loud roar echoed in the garage as it filled with unburned fuel.

Battery load tested? Battery Wiring and connections clean and tight? Starter relay? Check starter by bypassing relay. No codes? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

You cannot go wrong with autometer but I have the ones O'Reilly sells. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Yes. Anything that deals with the vacuum lines could. I'd check for cracked lines and hoses. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Did some welding. Still learning. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

You probably bent some valves taking in water and your engine oil looks like milkshake. Did your ecu get wet? Take it apart dry it out and hope for the best but your chances are slim pending any engine damage. Trying to start it after it took water in without following the proper course of action is a bad nono and causes more damage. You need to remove spark plugs, pull fuse to fuel pump, drain oil, replace oil and filter, replace air filter, crank it over and watch water shoot out if the holes. Replace oil and filter again until it looks oil. Cold water rushing in could also warp some stuff too and may cause a headgasket leak. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Reuse your mounts or buy new ones of yours. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Pulled the welder out of the pathfinder and found out that weight of it bent the housing but everything inside looks OK. I'm missing tips so I'll need to get some new ones from Harbor Freight. I'll also need to hit up Home Depot for a new 3 prong welder outlet to replace the 4 prong one in the garage. My hard and soft gas lines are dangerously close to my header so I'll need to figure out a way to reroute them since the car accident caved in my passenger frame rail. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Last time seen running. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Stumbled upon this very informative thread on one of the Skyline forums in regards to the re4r01a https://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=i0i08gkn0qv6vg0fpmh0qlgsb4&topic=159148.0

I got the bugger to finally line up. It was a damn balancing act for sure. The bottle jack on the jack did the trick. I just need to refab the RR engine bracket to fit my bent frame. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Picked up some 1k rated ratchet straps from HF that were on sale so I could pull the transmission crossmember into place. Using the straps and pry bars I managed to get the bolts to fit through. I just need to pick up a couple washers to bring it back up and call it done for that section. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

I want to say this is normal until the fluids warm up. You night have to block the radiator for Temps to stay in operating range. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Thanks for the photo confirmation. So how I have the mount orientated is the correct way now. I guess it's just a matter of me pulling the right bank of the engine and transmission rearward so the right side of the transmission bracket will line up. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

YESSIR!

backstory: 2wd converted to 4wd. I left the passenger side transmission crossmember frame member intact. I cut off the driver side bracket and welded in the bracket from a 4wd. From NPORA on facebook, someone pointed out and showed me the correct orientation of the transmission mount but I for the life of me cannot get it to line up with the holes. The only way it seems to work is when I reverse the orientation. Can someone with a 4wd and 2wd go under and snap some shots of the frame mounts and transmission mounts and get some quick measurements of the bolt holes on the frame mounts?