MY1PATH

Ok SET everyone straight, stock exhaust is 1.875" OD or 45mm ID because thats how they did it in japan. OE Replacement is 2" Becuase its cheaper to produce. And the deal with 2.25 is this, Thorley headders exit 2.25, magnaflow cats for our rig are also 2.25 so when you build a whole system using 1 size your polly gonna use 2.25. I have re-done my exhuast over half a dozen times and felt what was differant each time. 2.25 really doesn't rob you, In fact it helps a little up top. The reason big pipes slow you is becuase when gases explands it cools down and slows down. so hot fast exhaust pulses collide with slow moving cold gases and it creates a trubulance... ...the chain reaction leads to your engine sucking in less air and sometimes burning more fuel. So 2" or 2.25" ARE BOTH FINE just don't go bigger.

about a decade ago my a/c pump blew up. It sent shrapenel down al the lines, everything had to be replaced. All the new parts were OEM I think exept the 2 lines going in and out of the new oem compressor have 134a fittings on them now because I just checked my dodge(134a) and they look the same, the caps even interchange. I think I vaugely remeber dad saying it was converted after it blew.

That is correct. That has also been asked more times than I can Count. The R200a on these rigs is differant than than on the z-cars and subarus. Some of the internals will swap, some wont and the pinion is a differant length so that limits compatibity as well.

x2 on what B said. Speakers that fit in stock loctaions work well for me. I might get a mini Sub to go under the seat but nothin noticeable. I also hate when I'm @ an intersection with my music at a comfortable level for me and(windows up) I can hear somone elses music over mine. I need to invest in some insulation.... So, being loud gets ppls attention in more than one negative way.

I think the round glass packs like chery bombs sound terrible but oval case glass pack mufflers like a 2.25"magnaflow sound great on these rigs. But as stated, opinons do vary.

Nice work, do you really think these sliders will bend? maybe if your really stuck but... 3/16 or 1/4 wall DOM is pretty stong(aussuming those are the trail gear sliders)

just put your headlights on sideways!

I see it.

wow they cross the body line. the I've only seen flares go right up to it b4

all this has been covered but here's some ideas; thorley or pacesetter headders the only exhaust system out there is made by gibson but if you think 3500 RPM is unpleasant now than you should stay away from that. get a magniflow cat and Magniflow turbo series muffler(tailoring to your pleasnt sound needs) all pipe should be 2.25, it will have to be custom done. A 6 speed will not bolt to your engine. Even if it did your underpowered VG is best keept above 3k rpm on the freeway. They do make 4.10 gears for the diff and that may give you a lesser done on the freeway but they will also break the bank. Splitting your ehxhaust @ the muffler (1 inlet 2 outlet) may help pleasant sound as the resonance can cancel itslef out. Look good, thats all you If you do what we say its not really yours...

I would gess ~2000 lbs on the rear and just shy of 3 on the front

Is it ok? Well the stock ones wern't hardened either so yes it would be ok. the controversy against hardened goes on with a few points to both sides. I will start by debunking the false ones. A hardended bolt (metric grade10.9) will shear instead of bend/ stretch so when it fails you are stranded.... THIS IS TRUE BUT!!! the force required to do this to a hardened bolt is such that a regular bolt wold have bent or stretched to the point of complete failure long before the hardened one. Its better to have the bolt threads fail than the frame threads and its always better to have the replacable part be weaker. There is SOME truth to this but IMO as long as your bolt is long enogh (and not too long) to engage ALL the frame threads and is proplery torqued this will not happen. If its not long enough then yes it will pull the end threads out and then when you go longer there are still fewer threads so more strip out. "and its always better to have the replacable part be weaker" Yes, but Its likey that the threaded nuts weled in the frame are the same harness (def NOT HARDER or I would have had less issues) I have no proof If they are the same or softer. If they are softer then the timeserts I used to repair my frame were an upgrade in thread strength... "The stock bolts weren't hadened, maybe there was a reason for that"(like perserveing the frame threads) Yes there was a reason. same reason the ONLY hardened hareware Is inside your engine. Hardend materials cost aprox 2x as much. Come on, you know mfgrs want to save money, upgrades are up to you! I have been using 10.9 metric bolts on my UCA's for some time now and have had NO ISSUES since I stopped letting monkeys with Pry-bars and impact gus do my alignment. A warning on Bolts If any bolt is too long and hits the inner frame it will put undue stress on the the threads... ...and then it will be easy for said monkey to make your day...

Close... Don't the R50's have reverse-cut gears for the front. I beilve this was done becuase the R50 came with Locked only hubs. Anyway you can only put other reverse cut gears in there. the side gears on in the LSDs are differant splines BUT ALL Clutch Packs are interchangeable. This information is useless because the R50(and other non w/d21) LSD's already have the parts you need. Open it up and you will see the the pieces can be re-arranged to grip more. R50 arrangement Clutch packs ((||..|||...| see how they are not alteranting? your losing friction there. D21 arrangement Clutch packs ((|.|.|.|.|.| see how they alternate that's the biggest differance. . spin with the axle while | are stationary and ((spring pushes them together and thats how it works.

Thankyou! there has been a trend of overposting lately and it gets annoying cause I wind up looking @ the same thread too many times. and If I replied to one I get confused cause I'm like "Didn't I reply to this?" I aslo can't see what everyone else said on one page cause they all repied to differant ones.

Acording to the FSM Multipurpose grease. if you cross water allot I would go for marine grease.

BTW on a lifted pathfinder the camber can be set to 0, or closer too it, instead of ~1* negative because of how the geometry behaves in the lifted postion.

that's M14 x 1.5 60mm long.

SC's are constant, from Idle up. the boost is always propotional and the vehicle is predictable. This is much needed for many low speed and power on/off/gentle controlled situataions. a small trubo with a low spool rpm would be then next best and likely simpler/ more affordable. but output is depenant on RPM to create enough exhaust gas. if you let off and then want to ease into it you will have lost all the power you were using a moment before. Really, i'd try a vg33 swap and SC with an eaton m90 if you want torque from forced indcution. but that would be even harder (but well deserved 250+ftbs)

slide the spline piece on first. A groove on the end of the cv should be appearant once the piece is all the way on. You may need to reach arround and pull the cv toward the knuckle. put the snap ring in the groove. if it absoulutely will not go no matter how hard you reach arround then you'll need to buy a thinner snap ring.

the hoohaa does wonders. I would try that AND be sure your idler and other seeing parts are in good order before you try to invent someing new. I only say that becuse I think the hoohaa is as good as it gets. combined with dual boxes I'm sure in outpeforms calmini, L&P and SLR's steering systms and for a mere fraction of the cost. once you have the HooHaa if your still not happy @ least it may have given you some Ideas for what else to improve...

ok, I'm pretty adimant about this. the exact same thing happend to me @ home deopot with a door. (not returns on special orderd pre cut doors) I did fight it and I did get my money back. and I do know the frustrightion!

Not Oh well! are you saying that if you paid be 10g for a camero and say no refund that your gonna say oh well if I get you S10 pickup (ugly step bed body) instead. yeh its only 20 bucks but the merchant measured and documented the wrong size. Got to BBB or get some other party involved becuse rather than being responsible and cutting their losses they are SEALING FROM YOU.

I wish I could run out and grab you one but It seems I will be on duty 12hrs a day for the next 14 days. no time to go to a JY when its open. anyone else got a spare or wanna find one so you get an AL wing mount instead of brittle 20 yr old hollow plastic?

EHEM! forget about somone? I barely made it to where was going when it gave its last straw. it took over a year to fail but it was a good lesson. NEVER use a Fork or other Pry tool to remove your pitman. Nomatter how stuck it is. Use a puller or cut it off and get a new one. I broke 5 the same way in a JY trying to get a spare pitman. hope if anyone took them then checked inside cuase its time bomb once you break that tab inside. But yes other than that I do think they are extremly durable and smooth if you get one rebuilt by redhead steering gear.