MY1PATH

no, they are not. wd21 HAS DIFFERANT bolt locations and is on the right side.

3-7 degrees higer on the right side will cause a slight downforce on the axle whenever it tries to shift to the right (hard acceleration). But then again; one these are not muscle cars and two the r50 panhard is on the left side of the frame making it akward to locate the frame side panhard below the axle on a 4x4

I used a hella double relay from summit. They don't cary that model anymore... and the hella converson lights are under $100 on summit. They use eropean reflectors for mor consistant beam patterns. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLA-003427811/ http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLA-003427291/

I would think the heater core would be in much better shape than your old radiator because its sheilded forom the elements. follow the link above to check on coolant levels.

So Digging into the 94FSM more I have found that that aswer Is NO, you cannot run a regular tranny gauge of the factory temp sedender for the ecu. I ran the temp sender tests for the factory unit (AT-48) on the autometer unit I plan to install and the Factory unit puts out much lower voltage signals. Here are the temp/voltage specs for the factory sender: 68F = 1.56v ---> 175F = 0.45v Here are the temp/voltage specs I got out of the autometer sender: 70F=7.5v ---> 180F = 5.3v No the sender is not broken as its gauge read the same thing my thermometer did and If you wired it up to the factory sender you temperature would would register beyond the limit of the gauge.

mine does that too, I heven have half the radiator blocked with cardboard

Yes, the HB's are taller. I wanted to modify my sheetmetal for some Black chrome HB lights but the space between tire carier hinges was not big enough.

owch! hey Cuong, could you take that Banjo bolt for the cooler line out and measure it? I'm guessing its 12mm x 1.25 but I don't want to drain my tranny just to find out.

I would get the hella housings and use those instead. They are a known quality upgrade for many rigs running 5x7 beams.

I have not thrown the pathy hard enought to see the oil light. On the other hand I'm not looking at the light when I throw the pathy lol. but is there really any sarvation concern with pathfinders? should 510 be making trap door pans for those who like to be reckless with pathfinders (jumps, drifts, hard cornering(or as hard as pathy can lol)...)

the newer ones had shorter lowers pobably to fit the body better. MY 89's hangs below the body curve thats notched out for the bumper. I have not looked closely at my 94's yet...

on the pathfinder the 4x4 pan is smaller to clear the front diff.

No more than 45min total for both sides. Unless you have a stuck bolt then add some time...

I think The biggest differance is the order that the plates and discs are stacked in. the 97 places multiple friction discs next to eachother with no plates in between This greatly reduces the amount of friction surface you are using. Same number of parts just not alternating. the pre95's alternate so there is always a plate between two discs Thus giving much more friction surface. I added one disc to the innermost side of each gear and it was a little tight in some situations. One day I will machine that disc down just a hair and re-install it. I should be fine after that.

x2 acording to 94fsm page em36

x2

ya screw the 96+ electronics. If you want more than the 90-95 ecu offers build a megasquirt.

yes, I beilve that was the number. But the fact remains that nomatter what we did to his LS1 his MPG's never went down.

That, I could not find. I'm guessing too High tho lol. But if I had to pull a number out of my @$$ I'd say over 210F. Thanks for the info on drainage, do you think you could also measure the Banjo Bolt for the Cooler lines(12mm x 1.25?). I may consider just getting one of those if I can't find a spare pan to weld on... I like to avoid vehicle down time...Or I could just make the wife drive the doge and take all the time I need in the world doing it. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-640700/

So for clarity the filter bolts in and locates a pickup tube close to the center an sends fluid to the hole on the bottom left of picture. Now, where does the fulid enter the pan? Does it just pour down from that opening in the bottom center of picture? I want to weld in my sensor fitting as close to the path of where the fluid enters the pan as possible. So if I am corrcect about where the pan fills from my fitting will be on the passenger side of the pan. OR... I also just found Banjo Bolts with 1/8 npt openings on the head for temp and PS sensors. So what size is that banjo bolt that goes to the cooler? OR... I could try and locate that orange wire where it runs into the AT computer and tap into that... EDIT: 94FSM AT-36 shows that orange wire/sender as acutally just a heat triggered swich hooked directly to the warning light. It becomes Green/yellow stripe at the harness. White and Black should be the actual sensor and they become Red and Black at the harness. Red runs to the AT(pin12) computer and Black Runs to both the AT computer(pin15) and the ECU(pins 29&21).

I have not been following your setup but If you have a D44 up front and a LHD steering box then that there is your part. I love that site BTW, so much stuff

I strongly dissagree! 3.3 swaps always provide 2 or more MPG and that is more power Headders Usually provide more MPG (I got +3) and that is more power My buddy in his z28 picked up 20 ponies and 50 ftlbs of torque with his headders and exhuast. His higway mpg went from 22 to 27 MSD ignitions can provide more MPG and the can provide more power High Compression pistons in every vehcile I know that went from 7, 8 o r9 to 10 or 11 have always gained power and MPG The list goes on, I think it more accurate to say the more power you have the more potential you have to waste MPG but if you don't floor it all the time Most mild N/A power mods will net you MPG gain.

That looks like the reguar stock shifter. The HB would be higher and also sit closer to your stereo. EDIT: oops, I already posted these on #13 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5325&view=findpost&p=345421

More complete version thats already been pinned http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28134

Limted Slip Differential Given a circumstance and LSD will spin one wheel. They are desigined to put power to both wheels but are also desinged to slip when going arround corners to avoid wear to your tires. As a reslut, If you lift a tire off the ground or encounter allot of resistance on one side and no traction on the other one wheel will spin and the other will not. If the PO used an LSD oil AND and LSD additve(or just too much additive in plain oil) then there is less friction inside the diff and it will slip more easily. I think Lucas gear oil also makes for more slipping.