MY1PATH

The R200 is strong enough to be welded but your CV's may not be. The constant differtial load(from not being allowed to differentiate) will acelerate their wear and you will feel it on sharp turns. Snow should slip enough that it can be done but many other offroad conditions will be rough on your CV's. X2 on using a locker or even a front LSD.

I bet you could raise just the tranny about and inch on a stock wd21. Maybe the engine too. So with a BL you'd have even more room I jacked my tranny up 2" on the stock 94 to change the pan...

Camber is shims on both bolts. Caster is one bolt. Or if the camber is correct its moving a shim one bolt to another. In your case I would remove ~.060" from the left rear bolt. This will bring your left camber closer to your right and correct your caster at the same time. EDIT: I just checked that guess with the aligmnet shim chart (94FSM FA-12) You caster should wind up near ~0.78 positive. and your camber will go down to about ~0.86 positive.

Drivers door should do all locks on the sencond key turn when unlocking and the first turn on locking. The passenger and rear door should only do the lock for the door they are attched to.

4x4 parts is where you shoulda got em...

I've been there, it gets pushed out the vent runns down the firewall and onto the road. If your hose is disconected it will overflow out of the top of the tranny instead.

ya um Positive caster is what makes the wheels want to return to straight after a turn and not get pulled as much by the road. Your left wheel is still in the negetive causing the road to pull it straight wich then points your right further inward. I'd let it slide if the caster was out of spec on the positive side But never settle for ZERO or Negative caster. The rest looks good. AT tires should not make a differance how it drives. My MT's point straight and when everything is dialed in it keeps a line like its on rails.

As far as falling you can flex the stock springs farther than you can flex ford springs.

Depending on how over filled the tranny fluid could come out the vent on your passenger side firewall.

I don't slip plates and I was assuming a driveway type alignment... But yes, if on a rack and you have slip plates driving it will not be necessary.

Somone on here made pillar pods, they look pretty good in the end. He did a step by step so you you have a good artistic or detail hand you could prolly do it. Hey all that work to put an electrical sending unit in your remote filter... FOLKS I present a new option. I put my sending unit on the end of the transmisson banjo bolt. And I can make more; fits 1/8 NPT sending units.

you need to cycle the suspension every time you set it down. Most shops will just pounce on the bumper 6 or 7 times. I prefer to take it arround the block, slamming on the brakes a few times and jerking the wheel left and right to cycle it. I prefer this method because the wheels are turning so there is less resistance to the sance getting wider as it sits back into its resting point. Once you get your caster and camber give it a real good settle and then do your center and tow without lifting it.

IF you overfill your auto tranny this vent(when hooked up) will clean you passenger side Firewall and fenderwall. lol

Just an opinion here, but our trucks have a short wheel-base and being so they are allot less likely to high-center or get hung up on obasacles. So 3" lift goes allot farther then it would on a full size pickup. Now a full size pickup having such a wide wheel base could easily get hung up on the sharp crest at the top of a climb or little knolls that fit between the front and rear wheels and thus 6" or even 8" lift may be needed to avoid high-centering an obsacle that a pathy would be able to plant 3 or even 4 tires on and never get near the frame. Bottom line if you need more lift and flex than 3" lifted IFS can offer then you should be thinking about a SAS.

I had both my brights (bulbs) fail at the same time once. Don't rule that out....

I think ABS is only in the rear on these rigs. I don't know about the r50 but both my WD21's are prone to locking the front when your on ice. Engaging 4x4 helps reduce this because both front tires will not lock if the rears are still spinning.

thankyou nunya, you can be our designated answer repeater.

I went to change my filter and gasket today. I din't search, I thought it would be simple... hey it was easy on my buddies X... just not easy on the pathy In the end (exhaust was not gonna be easy...) I wound up unbolted the tranny support pad, jacked the tranny up to the body a little and removed the pad. Then I unbolted the front driveshaft from the DIFF. After that the pan came easlily; slid it down where the pad was and turned it 45*. Goin back in was simple too, just wish I'd thought of this all sooner...

the RHD terranos have that strip already notched. the RHD terranos have a passenger on that side lol

the nissan vehicle 3.3's are still interference but the chance to his is less likely because they run a smaller cam. BUT if you put a performance cam in there you are back to having an interference motor.

the new style has a round tube where the square one is on yours and a few stampings at differant angles on the boad side. The overal shape is the same. http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imageurl=http%3A%2F%2Finfo.rockauto.com%2FWIX%2F58906.jpg the board won't let me post the image here

my Moog Ider arm was so beat-up and wore out that it allowed the nuts on the dogbone to strike my frame whenever the passenger wheel was pushed hard(like off camber trail, runnouts, curbs...)

all the FP/FD/SP is driving me nuts lol can we try IO) INSTEAD? so the above would be; IOIOIIIIIII)) MY 89 WAS SETUP; 0IOIOIOIOIOI)) Note the 1 extra disc at the very beginning where the plate would normally rub on the gear. Since you digging into this whole thing I may look into getting my extra discs machined a little and try again. I think just enough to take the tread off one side so its smooth on the gear side should do the trick since it was close to my liking before...

drive ratio is the same front and rear. many R50 guys buy manual hubs to save mpg.

Got my tranny filter today. Inside it was a note stating that the filters with square pickup tube(like the one below) should not be used because are obsolete and do not provide adequeate protection... Just thought Yall should know...