MY1PATH

square tooth, change every 70K. I think the round tooth belts were only for 3.3L motors(96-02?). the round tooth belt is rated @ 100k Have you seen the timing belt page in the how-to section? may come in handy.

he replaced bjs and hes not running any shims for alignment.(seems like he may even be against it)

awesome! I been on my toes since you first mentioned this project. I'm glad you followed thru! So the new alty and ps pump are on the correct sides now right? (alty on batt side and ps on steering box side) so you just went and got the shorter steering lines that would have been used on the donor nissan? or is everything in the same 3.0 layout so you didn't have to mess with it. I assume a/c comprssor will have to be adapted? edit: what about emissons stuff? will that have to be swapped?

Ohh aint she pretty? I never seen A red pathy so shiny and clean and and new paint!

If your near my neck o the woods(lakewood) I'd look up chambers creek collision. these guys are easy on the pocket book for those not doing insurance work and they have a very powerful machine that can straighten bent frames and large body parts. If your frame is bent they can fix it if its something else they can prolly figure that out too. They stragtened my rear door frame out for 300 bucks (could barely close the back hatch) and this is what happened to it.

an old water pump can do that to ya, if the impeller is corroded or boken off some your coolant will not circulate @ its full potentia; posssibly being suficent for low loads but not high loads. one way to test for this is to put a thermo in your radiator. If your pump is not circulating well the temp will not rise very much in the radiator. THis could be why it is able to cool back down so quicly. I'd think if it was anything else the radiator would get really hot too and it would hold that high temp for @ least 10-15 min.

could you have bent a knuckle? i know they're pretty tough but if all else is ruled out then...? grab a knucle of a junker, I've never seen nissan @ Pull A Part(lakewood) that didn't have any so chances are it will be an easy find.

as long as rust didn't sneak up on it, there are not age rotted parts(doubtfull since there was no engine heat to speed the ageing) maybe $4500

Yes, the JY is your friend and this site is too, poke arround there are people here with spare parts or even parting out vehicles.

yeh, I woulda done it faster lol. It feels good on the shifts. It requires slightly more force to get into 5th & reverse but thats to be expected because the the return spring has a longer lever to push against to with. Every now and then I try to push it all the way to the dash before I realize, "thats it, I'm In 3rd I don't have to push as far anymore" But really I think .75 was the perfect amount for my comfort zone and the more I drive it the more I like it. I may still bend the knob a little closer but the throw seems dead on for what I want to feel. I can't wait for the roads to clear up so I can really get on it, I'll have plenty-o-chances when I drive down to Cali early January.

Been looking arround to do this for quite some time. 4-4.5" inches may not seem like much when you visualize it but when its the distance form 1st gear to 2nd gear it can fee like allot compared to some cars. I mis-shift 4th allot when I'm gettin on it, I think I'm letting the cluch out too early for my reach. So, in seeking more driver comfort I went at it. I looked arround and I happend to have a few stock and aftermarket shifters for a chevy T56(for a z28 camaro) laying arround so I got to understaing the differances real quick. A true short throw shifter has a longer arm below the pivot pont and the pivot point is raised equal to that longer ammount. Its that simple. the cheater method is to run a shifter with a shorter top(or just cut it) which shortens the throw but also lowers the knob. Now for the hard part; how much to extend? my friends camaro with the currnent short thorw is too short for my liking so lets shoot for a compomise. say 3" between 1st and 2nd. Well I had to re-learn trig (sorta) to get the number .75" For those of you who want to read the gable about the math its below the pictures. ONce I decided on .75" I went about with some plans. I got a spare pathfinder shifter to play with (thanks riotpunk!) I wanted to use .75" aluminum plate but its 70-80 bucks a squre foot and I only needed 1/4 that much so I took a 1/2 plate scrap and bonded a piece of .125" aluminum to each side(.5+.125+.125=.75) I cut to shape and picked up the 4 corner holes and then cut the bottom piece of the shifter and had .75" piece of 1/2" hex stock welded in. Lastly I bent the sifter towards me to be more comfortable. Last night I installed the assembly with longer bolts I had to beat the floor pan back a little with a punch to get the wrench in there. It works great so-far, It feels good. Theres too much snow arround to see if it cures my mis-shifting in 4th but I think it will. now for those of you with body lifts and shifter extensions this mod (using .75") could reduce your throw even more(1.5-2" reduction?) because your topside was extended which increases throw. Ok now for the pix(click to enlarge); If you don't Like my combo pics you can view the indvidual shots HERE (I don't have my measuremnets with me so bear with me). the distance the shifter moves inside the tranny(s)* and the length of the botom portion ( creates angle x at the ball. Now angle x and the length of the top portion (L) make t, the distance the knob moves. (I'm not gonna write out the trig here) so if "b" becomes longer "x" becomes smaller which makes "t" shorter. I kept pluging numbers into a trig calculator for "b" untill I could make "t" equal 3 inches on the calculator. once I had my number I rounded down to .75" because its an easier measurement to work with. *"s" is always the same because the tranny will not change

with reground cams material is usually taken off the baeline to increase the ammount of lift (differance form basline). some grinders "sprayweld" and grind the weld so the differance comes from increase over center not increase over differance from baseline. ex if you take .20 off the closed side of the lobe you have added .20 to its peak. the hydraluic lifter fills up with more oil to stand taller and pickup the slack (making it tick more/louder) whereas if you had solid lifters you would have to get longer ones or only use a cam that kept the same baseline. I think there is an article somwere about shiming lifters, a shim is placed inside the lifter so it doesn't have to work harder to keep up with a bigger cam.

this may not be possible for the UCA frame-nuts but usually if I need to clean threads I'll run a chase thru the opposite(undamaged) side to get a solid start. Theres a better likely hood of re-froming the threads unstead of cutting them when this method is used.

I have a list of all the 3.3 and 3.0 cam specs @ home If I remember correct the USDM 3.0 cams for pathfinder more conservative thant the 300zx cams. The 300zx cams are another good option IMO maybe less BOTTM end but prolly not enough to complain about. There is also a pathifinder a 3.0 J-spec (or non-usa) cam. I think its specs are the same as the 300zx cam. on that note OEM cams can be 400, and regrinds can be up there too. There is a local camgrinder in Tacoma(Delta Camshaft) that offered me 70bucks a cam and they re-condition the bearing surfaces. So I'm gonna get some good used cams and have my own custom spec done. HERE's THE SPEC CARD I MADE IF ANYONES INTERESTED In english its a little more aggresive in lift than the OEM cams but the durations are not increased very much. Think of it as a compromise between the USDM 3.0 and the S1 cam. no huge gains, but noticeable gains across the board instead.

I don't see any harm in it if it helps the engine stay warmer with out getting it too hot. If your summers get hot you may notice fewer MPG with the 180.

that is correct, it ajusts the fast idle for faster warmups. have you considered a mean green alty? 4x4parts sells them, 180 amp is more than any HO alty will offer. mean green also released a 200amp and they claim that output @ idle. but good luck getting ahold of them, they haven't responded my emails for one.

A smaller pulley on your alty may eliminate the need for high idle to produce power.

there's a writeup in the how to's if you plan on doing it yourself. keep in mind, the S1 cams(even if they say "improves low rpm") are a mid to high rpm cam so you may lose some low end. the S2 cams are high rpm and you will lose low end and my have to raise your idle,(not reccomended for automatics) I personally reccomend a more conservative custom grind OR an OEM 3.0 cam if you want to keep all your low end (the OEM 3.3 cam is a little more conservative.)

New lifters Is good idea. you can re-surface them but @ $12 each from abcnissan I'd say its worth it esp if you have a lifter tick now. camshaft bearings and seals would also be a good idea to do at the same time. nothing elses is requred, to my knowledge.

FYI everyone. There are 3 ranges of T-stat for the vg30. NISMO 160 degree OEM 170(iirc) OEM winter 180 (nissan sells this one so peoples heaters blow hotter in the winter)

yes, Python injection remaned (to performance specs I assume) they were listed as performance injectors but there was no other informatin. Over 4 months they developed an increasing resistance untill it was high enough to put the ecu into limp mode(1.8-2.0 OHM cold reading) UNCC's used injectors(thanks man) OHM'd 1.3-1.5 which is in spec. I'm gettin my $340 back on those pythons. ASAP

Thanks for the offer doughboy UNCC already sold me every thing from the manifold up. I installed the injectors today and oneday I'll get new ones for the extra TB (which will get polished, butterfly screws & shaft flush contoured and go on my future build). INJECTORS SOLVED IT! after not running for a week, the fuel lines empty, the battery low form running other equipment(stereo, & tesing new E-fan) everything cold(snowing pretty hard and sticking) startup was pretty rough. I let the injector circut run 3x tring to fill the lines & injectors B4 starting @ first the stater would give half a crank and give up. after severlal attmepts I checked the battery12.1v still enough! & termilals (didn't have it bolted so I fixed that)cranked long and hard several times and no start then I remembered all the conditions working against me, cold thick oil not been run, new injecotors empty lines been sittin for a week. OK TRY AGAIN Cranked and w/ some pedal flutter it started but needed help to idle so I gased gently for a minute. good idle. In the cold even with no fan it took while to warm up(wasn't gonna rev it cold) when it did I slowly took it up, when it hit 3krpm I punched it to 4k with joy! I lett it warm up more and then sat in it relishing in its reclaimed rpm freedom! RVVOOOORRRVOOOOOVROOOOOOOOOOOOOM! I'll finsh all the wireing for the e-fan tomorrow and hopefully ther will still be snow so I can play! I'm so happy now. I can't wait till tomorrow!

Because I do no konw what is differant. the plug? unused wires? will the fed ecu have issues with the Ca components? If anybody can prove that the ONLY DIFFEANCE is the ECU itself being more conservative(maybe get more power going fed) I'll get a fed because my current ecu may have been damaged by my "performance injectors" Being a CA model not In CA I am emissions exempt in 49 states. And I think in 2015(truck will be 25) it goes 100% emissions exempt. doughboy do ya think I can try your federal ecu as a replacement? or after what I just said, do you think it will mess things up? Its funny the CA reman ecu Is the LEAST expensive ECU on Parts america($328.99)

well being that ca models run a ca-specifinc ecu (found that out last week) I think I'm gonna wthdraw my TBI gineapig offer since ecu is gonna be harder to come by for me