MY1PATH

I'm in the middle of a re-buiding a tx10 and I can see maybe 2 ways this might happen but it is not very likely: 1)Ok one more than the other; there are 2 plugs on the outside of the case that are not drain plugs (I think they use a 19mm wrench but I'm not going to check rt now) they are called check plugs and they house a small sping and "check ball" I imagine a person could mix it for a drain plug(it will drain your diff) and not notice the spring and ball fall out. whithout these parts the 4wd fork does not have to fully engage before the low-range is engaged. 2) the 4wd shaft retaining pin broke allowing you to shift past FWD untill 4lo is engaged which would prvent you from being past it anymore. Ok I can visuallize it better than I can say it since I been playing with all these parts (seals coming soon so I can put it back together) but in terms of option #1 did you do a fluid change? the real drain plug is just below the fwd ouput shaft and not on the bottom of the case. when I finish with this one I will have a leaky spare that I can inspect and re-seal if you want to buy it.

stock pathy is "wrong wheel drive" up front because of the open DIFF. so if one wheel is stuck the oposite one will spin 2x as fast if you ride the brake a little it may equalize resistance(slowing the moving wheel) so that the stuck wheel begins to move.

ah, that makes sense, when I first pulled the case open the rear half pulled the fwd shaft back some and it had .5" slack, when I pressed it back in it went down to .25" Thanks! Now all I need is seals and I'll be ready to put it all back together.

you certainly can, forgive me, I was meerly stating how I would do it for a better weld outcome but after all it is only an exhuast weld it just has to be air tight lol

ok so I'm re-building a spare t-case(thakyou doughboy) to swap in cause my current one is leaking. Reserector made a great how-to on changing the chain on N4W. My current chain has about .25" of slack in it if I push on it between the 2 gears. my question is how snug should the chain fit? I would hate to spend $300+ on a chain that is going to fit the same way when I'm done. I can provide pictures tomorrow if need be.

possibly a little more. I would tack it on the vehcle and then take it down to do a nice job all the way arround. none the less I hope you enjoi them, I certainly like mine! altho I may be getting the pipe in question re-made in the future. I'd rather have a cheap one that would crush or puncture rather than than one that will send the impact up to the manifolds and crack them. or better yet run closer to that fist xmember so that neither can be an issue.

are you sure they can't be removed if welded? My 89's are welded and they still come off if you unblolt them form the collectors and the midpipe. It would be a good idea to weld these but if you really think you musn't; you should cut 4 evenly spaced slits into the outer pipe so that it will compress onto the other pipe when you put an exhuast slip connector clamp on it. fill it with High temp rtv (400deg+ rating) before you put it back.

the way I see it you have 3 options; get a new one (have had no luck in finding new or reman), get a junkyard one gut it out and clean it up for improved airflow this last option may make it a little rough on cold starts but no other problems should be encounterd.

Maybe one day I'll be the guinea pig, and I'll thorow it on the dyno when I'm done. Once we have real numbers and reall $$$$ amounts I can either cheer or regret while posting results for you all to decide if its worth repeating.

The idea is to get a custom crank made @ http://paeco.com/Stroker%20Kits.htm. No offset journals for me. I don't know how easily the block can be clearanced and modified for a 95mm stroke but 6mm was the inital Idea. I talked with a guy and it seems there are allot of complications with increasing the stroke larger than that; managing compression ratios, keeping the piston below the deck and keeping the piston from coming out the bottom of the sleve were the big ones. they have done .25" increase of stroke on a 300zx before so I figure keeping closer to what they've done will help keep things simple. I'm would only be going to 92mm because .5mm is about how much will be removed when the sleeves are cleaned up to accept new custom pistons. So asside form going to a 3.3 block there realy woun't be much increase in bore. the focus is stroke. theres lots of reasons why I wouln't go all out 4.0; TBI might not handle it additiona costs longevity of the engine w/ so much squezed out of it don't want to make a complete guzzler out of it. I'm only aiming for 180-200 ftlbs to the wheels with comparable HP and a 3.6 stroker w/ a mild custom cam should be able to handle that

Only the bore is increased on the 3.3; vg30 = (Bore 87.0mm + stroke 83mm)6 cyl = 2962 CC vg33 = (Bore 91.5mm + stroke 83mm)6 cyl = 3276 CC My theretical re-build VG36i = (92mm bore + 90mm Stroke)6 cyl = 3591 CC now 190ish ftbls @ the wheel doesnt seem like its asking too much when a stock vg33 does 200 @ the crank there are a handfull of 300zx guys running vg33 blocks for higer compression and greater displacement. they also like our pathfinder intake manifolds better. check it out @ z31.com you may find out allot about interchange...

better yet! Its also a 2door!

I belive thorley "crome fiinsh" is a nickel based thermal management coating(helps disipate heat) that is very delicate out of the box and needs to be "baked in" with normal used to reach full hardness. but yes, I too suspected allot of Back Doors In their waranty. Fortunately none of which were taken and surprisingly considering the part has to be re-manufacuted since it is nolonger in production.

anybody have expericne with the rediwelder 12v DC welders?

normally they go heavier(quicker) springs to withstand higer RPM

I wish It was always that easy, mine were seized in there and they broke the e-z-out

The factory recovery chains came with a shackle that uses an oval shaped pin; this pin is for the 2 tie-downs in back, unless your hitch is using them. a bolt or regular shalckle can be used but it will deform the tie-down slightly but it will NOT render it useless. Or a hook in my case; never let another guy hook up your recovery equipment lol

well its not just some bolt on, when you increase the effective diplacement by .2 liters and the specific method focuses on increasing the leverage offered by the crank by making its stroke longer I think It may be within reason.

"underpowered" yes, no arguement there "lacking Maneuverabilty" How do they figure? I've heard many a comment from others about that; "wow this thing can turn" "how do you turn so tight" "I've never seen a car U-turn across one lane" "your gonna hit it... or not" I don't think the 4runners that bad either.

I fear somewhere in the fine print you may find a whole in that waranty. I'm gonna read mine now... "offroad use, burn-out" may be words to be careful arround when you call for waranty, and hope the don't pull the "heat exposure" card on you. the hard metal thorley uses leaves the also in a brittle condition should an impact occur, I think its been a common problem.

a 6mm increase in stoke on a vg33 = 35L displacement. http://paeco.com/Stroker%20Kits.htm in florida will do it starting @ about 2g. when only doing stroke the gain in tq will be greater than the gain in hp. I talked to a guy on the phone there and he said "+60 ftlbs to the wheels is not and unreasonable expectaion for a stroker" It may be more than that but theres no telling untill its done. but still that would put me @ 190-200 ftlbs(I dyno'd 133 last summer) + whatever gain I get from going to a vg33block

the seat bottoms come off real easy, just 2 bolts in each bracket. EXTRA: once out you can drill the pin out and replace it with a locking pin for faster future removal. this is handy as it gives even more cargo space when the seatback is folded.

if its wrong and unused they should take it back. they should just inventory it, tape it up if its all there and put it on the shelf.

x2

tighten the first lug all the way so that the other 5 don't center?