MY1PATH

More food for thought; http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/article/...l.jsp?id=186499

As far as not fitting on the pathy... You can see in the Pic @ bottom that the lip would hit the caliper unless your wheel had enough room to run the lip away from the vehcile. I think I'm a order some very soon now that all the talk is about it here. It's ok, I'll be the guinea-pig for the pathfinder...

nope, Looking @ your cluster (electronic)the spedometer is a positional indicator like the tachomer and a separate in-dash motor runs the trip/odo. the mechanical units on the other hand both feed from the same cable and the speedometer is shown as a spring resistance to a rotating magnet inside and steel drum.

dindn't the 95's get the same 100k belt that the vg33 motors run? If I'm right then I'm sorry if this is moment for ya. If I'm wrong maybe lookinto the possibilty of the vg30de chain gears fitting on your cams and so on...

I know somone on here has got em(can't remember who), and I've been meaning to get some for a while now (thanks for the reminder) I have only heard good things about them so far, and if you watch their videos it all makes sense. just remember this is not a substitute for balancing, consider it fine tuning or calibration when you pick up a large stone in the tread.

good point B, Fortunately that was not my experience(the whole burning hole in floor part) whatever it comes to you've got us on your side man.

Pace setters are good, just inspect the y pipe B4 you install, they often forget to ream out that hole. Doug Thorleys are the best IMO and that what I have now. If the drivers floor boards get really hot chances are your cat is clogged, get a magnaflow direct bolt on, they are found on e-bay for 70-100 bucks vs nearly 260 or so new. they actually have a few on there now just search the part# 22765 for 86-89 pathfinders & HB 22760 for 90+ vg30 pathinders & HB this will cool your floor boards and you will notice an improvement in MPG as well if its bad enough to get that hot.

"stock wheels" came in several sizes... Mine were 31x10.5 stock wheels also ranged from 265/75r15 to 235/75r15 (28"-31")

I bought a tub of the energy suff "formula 5" it has kept my calmini quiet for 4 moths now. as far as cleanup, that easy, get a rag and a can of wd40 once the wd40 has displaced it, it whipes of easily. I discovered this trick when I ran out of acetone. and decided to try something.

yeh my 89 was push once and go. arround the last time my alty blew and cooked the batt it stopped working like that. If you try push and go it half cranks and dies. My assumption is my bad battery cannot hold the intelock relay closed circut while under the load of the starter thus causing the whole process of staring to quit 1/2 way thru. I'll bet changing my battery will put things back to normal.

you should varify the accuracy of your guage, buy a kitchen themometer (one that goes up to 250+F) stick it in your radiator just below your upper hose. The guage should start to move arround 90-100 and be near center somwhere in the 170-190 ballpark(Ideally 180 is center). You may be warming up fine and just don't know it.

prolly so you don't accidentally use it in a parking lot.

http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...mp;#entry416253 the above thread will show you how to ajust your warmup idle among many other things on your tbi motor

THe energy bushings are taller because they are intended for a lifted aplication. speaking of being lifted I'm considering putting my front bar back on. Strut rod Conpression/Tension rod they are all pretty much differant names for the same thing. but yes it can make it confusing. good work and nice pictures Do you have a BL? you might whack your fenders with those bumpstops if you are running 31"+ I have hit the edge of my fenders a several times with stock bumpstops the inner lip has been rolled upward because of is as well as some peeling.

you can also, with the radiator cap off and the engine idle, pump(squeze) the lower radiator hose repeatedly and then the upper with the cap on. If you hear a "gurgle sputter" in the radiator when you do the lower you prolly got an air pocket out.

should be, my 89's rack looks like its on whith self taping screws.

the tread is 3 years old! $#!t happens

2 for the price of 1 thats great on tires lol

another thing that will giv your lock problems; if a criminal has broken into your car using a screwdriver in the lock it may have bent the rod for the lock solenoid so that that door doesn't lock or unlock when you lock/unlock the drivers door.

so if you go from 30's to 31's you now only have less than 1" that you are allowed to SL or BL. thats a joke.

AH so its the logo side that strikes when you use larger diamer shocks. 92 do yours have the vekton bushings? A while back calmini swithced from derlin bushings to vekton bushings and I think that helped the squeak. I used energy suspension "formula 5" (its just a really thick bushing grease) when I installed and I have not had a peep ever. I has been 3 months so far. But honestly,I would use the superlift or roughcountry Unless the following applies to you; stubornly you MUST have the Beefiest UCA's you think its worth the price you don't mind making the cutout if you use bigger shocks you plan one re-coating them cause they don't prep the metal right for powdercoat. yes, I knew all that before hand, I'm a stubborn one. Lift range also seems to be closer to 2.5 than it is to 3"

I have my 3.0 clutch and it worked fine before I converted to electric. sounded like a supercharger in the summer and didn't know it was there in the winter. Thats how its supposed to be right? anyway it stil turns smoothly in my hand and if it will fit on your R50 pm me if you want it.

If your dissin the wd21 rear disc breaks I tell you what; since my conversion breaking has temedously improved.(yes fluid was bubble free and clean before hand) this old rig stopps better then it ever has before the swap and it has saved my ass a few times too or @ least eliminated the pucker factor one gets from making stops they dindn't think they had room for. Ok contradict or not I still think it seemed redicoulus (I keep thinking 180) so I looked it up..... my 1994 fsm says 260-289... so I guess my memory is roughly 100 off lol which is high(compared to others)... oh wait my tires do chirp arround really sharp turns maybe thats why the R50 got less lol -thanks for challenging back till we got the facts.

white face guages used to pop up on e-bay all the time, Haven't seen them for the pathy in some time tho.

try Putting REDLINE MT90 in your mt(synthetic), I promise your tranny will love it because its designed for imports w/ soft brass and bronze syncros (nissan 5spd) It can be orded from summit racing, jegs or directly from redline. It's expensive but I've found it to be worth every penny! No more neutral creep(unless its like 10 below) Shifts smoother when cold (like WA winters cold) And like silk once its warmed up. I have a custom built short throw shifter in my pathy and it magnifies the feeling of the cold and hard shifting in my hand but with MT90 It feels smoother than the stock shifter was with conventional 75w90. enjoi