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Everything posted by beastpath
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you use the guide that is posted in the garage section and watch the flashing lights on your ECU.
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no i didnt get shocks, just the UCAs
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Did not really know where to put this, so mods can move it to an appropriate place if need be. Many of the people on here hold the belief that Rough Country UCA's are the way to go when planning on doing a basic three inch lift. It used to be that you could call Rough Country and they would sell you just the Hardbody arms and bushings for about $150 or so. But then they got wise and demanded people buy not only the arms, but the whole Hardbody Kit, for $300 plus!! So it seemed the only reasonable way to go was to get second hand UCAs that people would sell occasionally. Well, do not despair, for there is another way... I stopped by a local 4x4 shop today called Off Road Unlimited. Never been in before, and out of curiosity asked if they could get me the UCAs by themselves. They called Rough Country, proceded to tell them that they had a customer who had been in a car wreck and just needed replacement arms. He explained that my "Hardbody" still had the shackles etc, so I didnt need the whole kit. No Problem! Each UCA came to $45.65, and shipping was $30! Grand Total of: $128.56!!!! Including bushings. They also gave me the part numbers, thought they might be useful for people on here. Controll Arm Passenger Side: 94026065 Controll Arm Driver Side: 94016065 So everyone should just tell them you have a Hardbody and have been in an accident. Haha.
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are you saying your air-mix door is just jammed? mine was a little while ago, if you take the glove box out and stick your head under there with a flashlight you can see the mechanism for the air door. If it is just stuck(and the motor isnt blown) you should be able to knock it with a long screwdriver and get it to unstick. Do it with the car on so the air mix door motor has power to it.
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heres a pic:
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cool, thanks GG the guy whos selling them says they were good for hill BJs and there is a distinct angle difference between the stock and rancho UCAs. ill post a pic
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Instead of doing SAS conversions on D21's...
beastpath replied to DreamOrMemory's topic in 86.5-89 WD21 Pathfinders
why bother swapping bodies? just drive the other vehicle as is. i think the whole point of doing an SAS on a Pathfinder is that you actually want to wheel in a Pathfinder! (frame, body, and engine at least) if the only thing that is on there is the body its not really a Pathfinder IMO. -
yeah Id be getting them used from someone who had them on his 89 Pathfinder. by "good parts" you mean they allow for correct balljoint angle/alignment? like the superlift/rough countrys?
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1000 bucks is absurd. take your time and its not a hard job.
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I have the option to get a set of Rancho UCA's I dont know anything about them, they look similar to 4x4parts version, but the balljoint attachment area looks angled like Rough Country UCAs does anyone have any info on them? most importantly...do they correct balljoint angle? did a search and came up with nada.
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hig pro headers? AFAIK only people who make headers for our trucks are Thorley and Pacesetter
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i think the vehicle has the cicuit for the heater wires, but the seats themselves dont actually come with wiring. you could probably swap seats though and hook them up.
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*bump id like to know the above too...
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They have separate fill spots. Spout in engine bay for tranny, and bolt on the top of the transfer case.
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the confusion is this: they can use the same FLUID, but the fluid goes in different COMPARTMENTS.
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remember, 460 is just the price for the base bumper. once you add some extra stuff on it is almost worth it to just get an ARB
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loosen up the rockers so that the cam can move freely then find TDC by putting a screwdriver or something else long in the #1 sparkplug hole. the crank keyway should be around the 11 o'clock position at TDC. Then align your cam sprockets, put the timing belt on, then tighten the rockers.
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will check that too. just drove it for 45 mins or so. it seems to idle in P and N around 5-600 when just started, then after a while(after it gets warm?) idles at ~750 like I said above. should i increase the idle speed? or flush the system with Seafoam?
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have to check on that.... i was just thinking that, but that would affect idle in N and P too right?
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once I accelerate she runs fine, no power issues or anything, just the low revs at a complete stop wouldnt a torque converter lockup make it have problems when im moving too?
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ok guys, got another one for ya. Thanks to y'alls help the engine is back together. Sounds and idles fine in Neutral and in park, around the 750rpm range. However, when I slip her into drive or reverse, the revs drop to around 400-500. Furthermore, if I turn the wheel when stopped(in drive or reverse) the revs go down even more to around 200-250 until I stop turning the wheel. I'm thinking maybe the powersteering pully is too tight for what happens when im turning, but does the rpm range in D and R sound normal to anyone? if not how do I adjust it?
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loud engine noise maybe lifter or engine knock
beastpath replied to 4wheeldrivefun's topic in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
there is a little tab on each head that has a small 10mm bolt connecting to the block. on the passenger side the tab is at the back, on the drivers side it is at the front close to the distributor well. that might be why they arent coming off. btw, sounds like a lifter to me. -
skid plates would be a more popular item i believe. especially for WD21 owners. it all looks cool though...for those that have the money.
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so, today i finally had time to look at the engine and check the noise. used a mechanics stethescope and figured out the noise was coming from the ac tensioner bracket. there are three bolts that attach this to the engine, and i was missing one causing it to vibrate and rub against another piece of metal. so a trip to ace and 65cents later and no more noise!! still have the lifter tick, am kicking myself for not changing a few of them out while I was in there, but thankfully they are on the passenger side head so ill just have to do that soon. and still need to get my header connecting pipe welded, but apart from that she sounds goood. thanks again to everyone. you all helped me through this, especially at times when i thought i was in over my head and should give up. you truly are wonderful people.
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so, could you buy like a bunch of kits for us all? lol
