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Everything posted by beastpath
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I only know of one bleed screw. Its on the back near the AAC valve. You dont need to remove it, just undo it a bit. Be careful, mine was very weak and when I screwed it back down it snapped.
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plus I had zero overheating problems before that night
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i did. But the fact the rad bottle is gaining fluid means the pressure is high, maybe from exhaust gases leaking into the cooling system. When the waterpump broke off i did overheat slightly, so perhaps the gaskets got damaged.
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this could be a head gasket problem couldnt it?
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well, i just splurged on a Mean Green alty. lol. Was undecided, but my folks said they would help me out as they think its a better idea to get a new one. So that should solve ANY and ALL electrical defficiencies i have, lol.
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Hey thanks, I actually bought an extractor before I read this, else I would have taken you up on the offer. As for the flush....it did nothing. The truck runs the same temperatures as before. Got up today and checked the coolant level, was quite low so added to the max level of the resevoir. Drove for about 5 mins and checked the level: It was significantly higher than the max. Turning on the heat does not cool the truck down, although I cant actually tell if it is hot air coming out, it feels the same temperature as the air inside the truck (90-100*). Going to replace the rad-cap again to make sure its not just weak pressure(hence the radiator overflow bottle filling up) but otherwise I'm at the end of my knowledge. Will probably have to take it to someone...
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yeah, its gotta be the alternator. Driving to work today not using the A/C the volts were about 13.9. No shifting problems or torque converter lock up. If i came to a stop though the volts would run down to 12 really quickley. Also, when getting gas I turned on the A/C and the truck stalled. Voltage read under 12. Now, to get a mean green or a quest.....
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yeah, cos it only started doing this a couple of days ago. Been about a weeks since i did the e-fan
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The transmission shifts fine until I drive at a steady pace. Then the rpms stagnate at about 2700, but every so often jump up to 3000 for a second then drop down to 2700. Have tried it at different speeds. Also I just "upgraded" to the taurus fan, but haven't done the alternator yet (trying to get my cooling issue fixed first). The voltage has been around 13 with A/C, lights etc on. Driving at any pace would jump it back to 14. Tonight i noticed the voltage was about 12. Turned the A/C off, picked up my speed a bit and the needle just went up a tiny bit. I'm thinking the lack of electrical charge is messing with my transmission shifting. Does that sound plausible? P.S. I have a tranny cooler installed and the fluid is nice and red with under 10000 miles on it.
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ok, did the long and tedious process of flushing my cooling system. Cools efficiently at idle, have yet to take her out for a spin as...... The bleeder screw sheared off leaving the rest of the bolt in the intake manifold. I have the worst luck. ive never drilled and extracted before, is it straightforward?
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that is where the AT control unit is housed unfortunately, otherwise I would have put a CB in there too.
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Returned from automotive coma - IT IS ALIVE!
beastpath replied to darkflounder's topic in General Forums
nice job! cell phone cameras are handy. -
neat, have not seen one before
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trouble installing an after market temp gauge
beastpath replied to ac92pathfinder's topic in General Forums
doesnt it say in the isntructions? and can you post pics? -
yeah, i think its a flush issue. Everything else is new.
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lol, yeah, good point. so i just got home. didnt run the A/C at all on the way, but when i stopped I measured the temp with my infared gun. now, im sure there is variance with the gun depending on how close to the item you are, but the highest temp i measured around the temp sensor area was at 179*. The thermostat area fluctuated between high 150's and low 170s (seeing as this is a 170* thermo, that makes sense). The guage in the cab meantime was barely less than the 1/2 way mark. Maybe I should replace my sensor...... I will run the A/C on the way back from school tomorrow and then take a temp measurement too and see how big of a difference it is between 179~ and a bit past the halfway mark on the guage.
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does flushing really make that big of a difference?
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lol, i know. its like im cursed. i want to go wheel and all it wants to do is break! lol no, i didnt flush properly, just drained the block. Guess Ill be doing that...
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it did, so i replaced the radiator too. lol. waterpump, radiator, thermostat, and efan are all new. if something is blocked would a flush get it out?
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about 2 weeks ago, the water pump failure was the start of all this overheating business.
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the saga continues..... replaced the thermostat with a 170* and did the taurus fan modification. When I refilled the rad i ran it for a while with the "burp" screw open, and then drove it a ways and filled the resevoir up to the max. A/C comes out colder than its ever been before, but the engine still seems to be overheating slightly. This increse in temp happens mostly on the freeway and when under acceleration, and especially when I have the A/C on. At idle the temp comes down to just before the halfway. After getting off the freeway today, with the A/C off, i noticed the temp needle was a bit past the 1/2 mark and when I checked the resevoir there was about 2 more of coolant above the max mark?!? i am stumped...
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doesnt mean it works well, lol. It could be giving bad readings, as in slightly higher than they should be.
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Good work so far... A. rubber tubing will suffice. B. same diameter as the rubber tubing the stock A/T cooler uses, I think its 3/8" C. You can do a flush by disconnecting your A/T lines and turning on your car until the fluid sputters. Then refil and repeat a couple of times. But to change the filter you need to drop the pan. D. No idea E. To remove the old ones you can carefully punch through them and then hook them out. To install them you can use the old ones to help tap the new ones into place. There is more in depth information on this somewhere. F. I have never used gasket sealer on the water pump, and I wouldnt recommend it. G. Not sure... H. Sounds like a seal issue. I. Yes, you will need to hit it with a timing light.
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VH45 Swap & SAS Update (Merged Threads)
beastpath replied to tmorgan4's topic in Solid Axle Swaps, Hardcore Custom Fab
thats...just...beautiful
