beastpath

what price range could I do the swap for? would I have to rebuild a manual transmission to make sure its ok? replace items like the clutch? could i do it for under a grand?

I'd love to do the manual swap at some point, but when I have more time and cashola. I really need to know if its worth it to just replace the seal though?

OK. So if I did this myself what would the process be? Would I have to FULLY drop the tranny? or can I slide it back some and change the seal? thanks guys

so have peoples seals blown before and changing them fixes it? cos I'm not having any issues with shifting etc, even with the leak.

i just had it looked at by a mechanic who is close. he says i need a new transmission too. its the original one, so he said the bushing that holds the seal in place is worn out, and that this is a sure sign the transmission is about to grenade. Quoted me 2400 for a new transmission

Backed the truck into the garage this morning so I can work in the shade, and I noticed a funny smell. Looked under the truck and i have a pool of transmission fluid coming from where the engine meets the transmission! i just dont know what to do anymore

oh, and i did an oil change when i flushed the coolant last friday. Had zero coolant in it then.

thanks man, i could use a few. lol

i dont think the block is cracked. how hot would it have to get to do that? i will have to have the heads checked when I pull them. im thinking its a gasket though as I didnt overheat a huge amount, just a bit past the halfway mark. probably just enough to cause a gasket failure.

letting it run the bubbles out today I noticed a. temperature is perfect at idle, fan turns on and off as needed. as soon as i drive it goes up b. bubbles only form if I rev the engine. c. there is some oily deposits floating on the surface of the coolant - very small, but noticeable. wiped the deposits away and left her for a while, more deposits formed. wiped the inside of the radiator nozzle with my finger, brown oily stuff. I would say that confirms a gasket leak wouldnt you? lol so that begins again tomorrow.

Has anyone got dynamic wheel balancers on thier truck, or have any experience with them? i didnt even know such a thing existed till today. Centramatic Balancers looks pretty useful if they work

do you guys think I should have my heads checked for warpage? I would think they would be leaking a greater amount if they were warped. opinions?

fuse maybe?

did a block test today, to test for exhaust fumes in the coolant. came up nil. there were some small bubbles coming up fairly often however, like a slow but steady stream of them.....let it run for quite a while to see if I could get them all out, but no go. what do bubbles like that mean?

So ONE bad experience with ONE used Nissan has ruined your faith.... what happens when something goes wrong with your Honda? switch to Toyota?

cool, thats what I was thinking too. I reused them last time, but like you said, its cheap peace of mind.

yeah, the entire cooling system has been replaced, so the only other possibility AFAIK is that a HG is crapping out and letting exhaust fumes into the cooling system. So will be doing that AGAIN next week. lol

you only have one, its in the length of piping before the cat converter, just about under the front door.

ah, that makes it more complicated. lol. If the person who put your engine in used your original cam/crank sprockets then it will be square. If he used the 94's cam/crank sprockets it will be round. Its more likely that he used the 94's, which is a good thing as you get more miles between changes. To verify you would need to take the upper timing cover off, "Its the only way to be sure"

Think these would be any good? EBAY Head Bolts 3.0L

yeah, that stuff is nasty. looks good man. front sway par is a pain huh.

you have a square toothed timing belt. The round tooth is for later years. www.partsdinosaur.com sells a good kit.

Just a thought, but my 02 sensor light came back so im just going to replace it, but would a bad 02 sensor cause it to run hot?

Thanks. yeah it does, but at least if it is the HG i know how to change it. Going to have a shop compression test it etc to make sure first.

Nope its an aluminum screw Its on the back of the intake manifold. The AAC is actually underneath the intake, but there is a tower thing to the right of it which a wire connects to. (dont have a pic right now) The plug is to the left of this. It has a sticker next to it has a warning in English, French, and I think Japanese telling not to open when hot too. Yes, very easy to get to. Just need a 10mm socket. An extension is helpful too depending on how fat your ratchet head is.