beastpath

yeah, i cleaned it with rubbing alchohol and a qtip and then left it to air dry. there was no dirt on it really anyways. when i wiggle the MAF wires it doesnt do anything either. does it show up as a code if it is going bad?

well, you could check and see if you put them back together correctly. or you could buy some used auto hubs if you want to stay stock best bet would be to buy some manual locking hubs. they are very easy to put on and stronger than the stock autos.

thanks 94, how tight should the belt be exactly? and when burping the nose of the truck should be in the air right? i read in the FSM that 750 was the ideal idle speed for these beasts, so id like to get as close to that as possible. should it idle faster at startup though than after its been running a while?

the transfercase locks the vehicle into 4WD....when the axles are locked they lock the hubs i'm sure the hubs corrode, just like anything else in the world. and yes i think you can clean and regrease them. i dunno how often, and doubt you can tell if anyone has done this before. best way to see if they work is to go to a peice of scrubland and put your PF in 4wd, then drive forward a bit. if they clunk, they work.

IMO the hubs are not bad for light to moderate offroading. They lock into place when you place your rig in 4WD and either go forward a few feet or spin the axle a couple of times. They unlock when you take your rig out of 4WD and reverse a few feet. They should make a loud clunk when they engage. Any manual hubs you get are going to be stronger than the autos, and the NISSAN ones are supposedly the strongest out there. The Nissan ones are not very common AFAIK, and new from a dealership cost a bundle. I have a pair of Nissan hubs that I got from MY1PATH on here and they have worked great for me. You can pick WARN hubs up for about $150 new, and Mile Marker hubs up for about $100. WARN is the better brand. They are cake to install.

After doing my head gasket repair I have four issues that I need some advice on. I don't know if some are related or not. Timing is good, and I have cleaned the MAF sensor. I have a new rotor and cap but havent put them on yet. The radiator, t-belt, and waterpump are new also. 1. My temperature keeps going up to just over the halfway mark. It used to stay well before the halfway mark previously, even when the A/C was on full blast. In fact, just after I did my head gasket it was running at normal temps, but somehow the fan ripped off the waterpump and cracked my radiator. So then I replaced my waterpump and radiator and now it runs slightly too hot. 2. My amperage is being weird. It runs down to about 13amps when at idle or stopped at a light, and less if any accessories are on. Goes back up to 14 if I'm driving. Seeing as the waterpump and the alty share the same belt, could these two probs be related in that the belt is too tight, or too loose? 3. When I startup cold my rpms run a little low, about 650-700. If I turn on the AC to full, and then turn the wheel at a stop, she stalls a lot of the time. Also when I drive off from a cold startup she stumbles occasionally. Sometimes I think I can smell gas occasionally too. I have adjusted the idle speed, and now when fully warm she idles at about 800; this did not help cold starts as far as I can tell. 4. To top this off I have lost about 2mpg, from 16mpg to 14mpg(those are so low already because the roof rack I put on created a lot of drag). Could these be related too? I've ordered new plugs also for when I do the cap and rotor. Any ideas?

that literaly just happened to mine about a week ago! was on the freeway too. time to change the water pump. Only had about 20,000 miles on it. Only thing I can think of was that I bumped it a few times when i changed my head gaskets. had you been working on the engine at all and knocked it or anything at all?

what does "red flag" grade mean exactly? lol

honestly 170 should be fine. im in Az and my needle is a bit before where the halfway mark is even in 110 degree weather (except for right now, but I that has been a problem only since I redid my heads so I know there is something else wrong) instead of getting a new fan clutch you could do the taurus fan mod, that will definitely keep it cooler. probably cost about the same too.

the problem is my brace doesnt seem to fit over the idler arm. so i was going to get a new one. the arm itself looks like a stock, or OE one, but the threaded part at the bottom is wider than the hole on the brace. This is the 2nd brace (1st from AC, this one from Calmini) that wouldnt fit over it.

Nissan Brand or OE?

do you have a link to where you get spicer parts?

Im thinking i will replace my idler arm when I do the tie rod ends, swaybar bushings, strut rod bushings, UCAs, and add my idler arm brace. anyone have any advice about brands? I know not to get moog. 4x4parts has genuine nissan idler arms for $110 plus shipping ebay has a few "OE" arms for about 30 bucks plus shipping and Checker Auto has a Mquay Norris brand for $55 with a limited lifetime warranty, a beck-arnley for $88 with 1year warranty, and a Falcon for 44 with a 1 year warranty. was thinking about getting the Mquay Norris. is it a good brand? and will my idler arm brace fit on it?

the RC UCAs come with bushings AFAIK otherwise the energy suspension ones should fit i think.

i doubt it was the fact you had a 170 degree t-stat that warped your head. most people run 170 or 180 and are fine as long as the cooling system is working properly. the head wouldnt crack at that temperature range anyways. if your head is cracked, dont you think you should replace that too btw?

it is. strut rod/sway bar bushing kits come to about 50 bucks from rugged rocks. it would be worth it to replace the bjs too. then you dont have to tear the front end apart...again.

replace: - sway bar bushings - lower controll arm bushings - strut rods and bushings - ball joints also may as well replace: - tie rod ends - shocks

i searched and didnt find an answer. has anyone done the drop bushings? I would like to know before i spend good money on them if it is a labor intensive installation?

200, including the 2 shocks

lol, no worries. yeah the rancho setup looks unique so i guess ill pick it up. they guy is selling them with rancho 9000 front shocks too. too bad i already have rough countrys on order. when they both get here ill do a side by side comparison and pass along which ever one i dont use.

yes...reading is key simon. im the one who started this topic and i would be getting them USED as mentioned above.

so should I get these or stick with Rough Country??

yeah, they have extra mount points with self tapping screws.

its not a pressing fix. i havent done mine yet and ive had my lift on for five months or so.

1.nope it isnt mandatory to use one, but the truck may pull slightly to the drivers side. 2.supposedly XJ brackets work, but I dont know this for sure 3.cheapest option is to do a mock up yourself and have a shop make one, but it still might run $50 or more