beastpath

sounds a tad low to me. i was getting about 145-160 for half a tank.

lol, ok, will be relapping my valves tomorrow AM. for once seems like an easy job. Theoretically monday AM the heads will go back on, and then tues Ill put all the other junk back on and hopefully start her up! Thanks a bunch you guys! You have really helped me throughout this ordeal and given me the confidence to do things I never thought I would (valve seals and lapping).

the FSM doesnt say that i must use new bolts, so i assume Nissan reuses them. Guy at checker told me to chase the threads though. can i use a tap for this? i dont want to damage the threads. when i cleaned the old gasket off some small bits got into the cylinders, i tried my best to keep them out but was unsuccessful. is it ok to just wipe them out? and even then, if i dont get some out will they just burn up or is there a chance they will score the cylinder?

whats with NAPA, carquest, checker auto and autozone not carrying head bolts for our trucks? dealer wants 150 for them!!! where else can i get them?

eh, no need. i know which one is leaking, theres a film of oil in the rear passenger cylinder.

actually the block and heads were remanufactured. so technically they are only a year old. 58-65, thanks. they felt a lot tighter. lol oh, also, what is the trick where you pour water in the heads to see what valves are broken?

heres a shot of the passenger side head off. there seems to be a lot of flaky black crud on the piston heads. The rear piston has most of the crud on it, the others are cleaner. crud is on the underside of the head as you can see too. should i just wipe this off? or is it demonstrative of a bigger problem?

anyone know the torque for the cam sprocket bolts? cant find it anywhere in my manuals (FSM and chiltons)

lol, i think ill take the first option.

Ended up just using a longer screwdriver am about to take the heads off now, taking a break to eat so I can focus on doing the torque sequence right. Id like to get all the coolant out of the heads. is there a way to clean the heads when they are off?

just installed mine last night(needed some accomplishment as i was stalled doing the head gasket change). It fits just fine with the sunroof in the stock location, probably about 2-3" of space between the bracket and the sunroof.

what would happen if stuff fell into the plug holes just out of curiosity?

oh, ok, that makes sense about the plugs. thats the side the gasket leak was on. glad its more important to count teeth than have the lines exact, was a little worried for a second. am still stuck at removing the crank bolt. have the starter unplugged and moved forward about 2 inches, but whenever i shove a screwdriver in the teeth it slips out as soon as i turn the crank bolt. dont have impact unfortunately, so is there a better way to block the flywheel than with a screwdriver?

no-one gonna answer my questions?

well im stalled again until someone gets home and can brace the header bolts to the connecting pipe while I unbolt them. heres some more pictures: Lots of coolant! The three on the left are from the passenger side head. Any reason they are more fouled than the others? The drivers side cam sprocket dimple doesnt line up with the mark. It looks like its a tooth off, but I counted and there are 40 teeth between them so idk whats going on.

ok, so how do i do it by moving the starter? lol, cant get it to work any of the other ways. do i just move it forward a few inches and stick the screwdriver in the hole?

ok, but what do you use to stop the engine from just turning. as in, most people block the flywheel, but I dont want to remove the starter to get to the flywheel if I can help it. lol.

ok lads and ladies I'm starting work on her again today. should be able to get the heads off, clean em up and put em back on, and hopefully most of her together again. is there a way to check the valves are ok without taking apart the head? also is there a way to undo the crank-bolt without touching the flywheel, and without using the starter trick mentioned above? I read there is a place in the front to put a screwdriver, I'm just wondering where?

ok am i understanding right? Step 1: loosen rockers Step 2: Remove heads Step 3: Put car in N and find TDC Step 4: Put heads back on Step 5: Put timing belt on and count teeth Step 6: Tighten rockers there is only one way to put the cam sprockets on the cams correct?

gotcha, ill try that then. will the cams move when i take the heads off? and when the heads are off can i turn the engine over to make sure its at TDC? If i did the above, how would I make sure the valves etc. are in the correct position when I put them back on?

ah hah, i had a feeling I had to loosen that bolt. may have to just cut it and replace.

ok, so I stopped for the night and went and picked up a few supplies. 27mm socket, scotchbrite, cap and rotor. They did not have a puller to rent so Im gonna pick one up at harbor freight for 12 bucks along with a few other things. Most likely wont be able to do that till thursday so until then am halted. More or less where I'm at. The upper timing cover is off too. One thing I'm stuck on is loosening the power steering pump. Ive loosened the adjuster, tightened it, completely undone it, but I cant get the pump to move so it loosens the belt. Can anyone help with this?

Cool, I read somewhere on here its a 27mm?

are the rubber ones just as good, or is it better to get polyeurethane(spelling?)?

So while I have been working on my truck today I noticed something that needs to be fixed. my front sway bar bushings are kaput. By kaput, I mean, one of them is completely gone. Here's a pic. So where do I get a kit that includes these? the one from 4x4parts only has the bushings for the ends, and rugged rocks doesn't have a description (although it does say a "full" kit")