beastpath

i greased mine, supposed to help against bad noises.

kewl, yeah, ill try cleaning the connection on the o2 sensor before i replace it. anyone know if those hoses connected to the tank at the back are just standard 3/8 fuel hose? or do i need specialty hoses?

even though the o2 sensor is new?

will disconnect 02 sensor today. on another note, i had her running while i was doing something in the garage and when i walked around the back i saw a little puddle and some drips. Looked underneath and I see one of the fuel hoses has cracked and is dripping gas. Explains the smell of fuel, and probably my dip in gas mileage. Could that also be a reason why it is rough from a coldstart up? Maybe not getting enough fuel pressure until its had a bit of gas?

burped it and is still running just over 1/2 when A/C is on full blast. Is stable though. I put in a 180 degree thermo, so maybe it just isnt enjoying this weather we are having. Changed my fan/alt belt out as it had a chunk loose, and didnt tighten it up enough (go figure), so it sqeals a bit. Tomorrow mornings work, lol. Also ran the codes today and it threw only 2: 21 - ignition signal 33 - Heated oxygen sensor The 02 sensor is new, but i honestly didnt tighten it down that much, just made it snug. would this be affecting the idle??

have someone here buy them for you and ship them.

oh, ok. cool. Thanks guys.

im thinking about doing the bearings too when i install the new UCA's etc. any step by steps anyone can give? pointers?

When I was under my Beast today workin on stuff and chasing gremlins I noticed the passenger side UCA has about 6 shims on the front bolt and only one on the back. Is it fairly common to have differing amounts of shims on each bolt? I thought you should have equal amounts. The tie rods, not the shims, adjust the toe in of the wheels right?

I suppose not, although, if you got stuck and needed to use a winch to pull yourself out, and had the taurus upgrade (high speed connected), and it was at night so you need all your extra lighting on....that might add up to 60-80amps.

just replaced my front sway bar bushings with energy suspension this morning and WHAT A PAIN IN THE A$$ to do! The end links were especially hard. You have to compress the bushings some to be able to screw the nut on. Ended up using a clamp and a lot of curse words to get it on. Cornering is so much nicer though! Doesnt feel like Im gonna tip over.

so wouldnt idle amperage be more of a selling point than maximum amperage?

what does this "cut-in" mean exactly?

has someone done a writeup on doing the tension bar bushings?

You KNOW when manual hubs are locked though, cos you have to get out and do it yourself. Peace of mind. As for getting out in the mud and locking them, why do that? Just lock them when you get on the trail before you get stuck in any mud, then you can just shift in and out of 4wd. Then unlock them after you are done. Doesn't take any more time than having to reverse until the auto hubs disengage.

lol, you are right, what i meant to find out is if Strut Rod is the same as a torsion bar. That is what tells you to look at Push Bar. Im assuming its the same as above, where it just says strut, it lists a bar connecting the LCA to the frame.

That website says: Strut Bar: See Push Bar Push bar A bar between the shoes in a drum brake thats not what the "Strut Bar Bushings" are for from Energy Suspension.

Drove her back and forth to college today WITHOUT the A/C on (which was like hell btw, 108+ Phx heat) and the temperature guage stayed about the 1/3 mark, maybe a little higher. So that is good. I would think that rules out faults in the actual cooling system and points to the accessories being the problem. T-stat is new too, and is working. Was going to "burp" her when I got home, but when I opened the hood I saw there is a chunk missing from the Fan/Alternator belt. So will definitely be replacing that tomorrow. Also checked how tight the belts are. The Fan/Alt belt and A/C belt are probably a little too tight. All the wires to everything are connected, but I will make sure I clean all the connections too, and that everything is connected to the right place, lol. Like you said Kingman, it shouldnt stall. In drive I'm around 5-550 rpm, when I kick the A/C on 450-500, and when I turn the wheel(at a stop) it kicks down to about 300 and stalls. Again this is only after shes only just been turned on. So, just garaged her until tomorrow when I have some time to work on her.

is strut bar the same as torsion bar?

ok, warmed up is about the same as mine, dips to about that in D too. just the cold idle is buggered. pretty sure timing is right on. TDC when i put it together again, counted teeth etc, no loss of power driving, sounds smooth. used timing gun to get 15 btdc. and it wasnt overheating before the waterpump incident, which was after the head gasket stuff. but it still had the cold idle prob. ill play with the dizzy a bit too and see if advancing or retarding the timing helps any.

lol, no worries, was getting confused myself. isnt that really high for an idle speed though? does it affect your gas miliage? i could easily turn it up that much, but FSM says 700-800 in N while warm.

ok, ill try cleaning out the plug too, good idea. maybe a couple of bursts of electrical cleaner would help too. 700 idle in drive you say? what about in N? i didnt think the VG30E had a cold idle adjust, but i will check again.

at load do you mean while driving or when stopped?

is it true nissan seatbelts are under lifetime warranty? if so, then just have a dealer look at it and replace it if something is wrong. seems the safest and cheapest option.

3) there is an air control valve or something, but no adjuster for it. Havent had time to check codes yet, just been trying different things to see if they work first. will check them first thing when I get a chance. 4) my mpg was 18-20 before i put the roof basket and lights on. Then it became 16-17(planned on hooking up the wires to be quick disconnects and then removing the rack until i needed it on there). After the gasket change it lost about 1-2mpg again, so im at 14-16. MAF was just cleaned, 02 sensor is brand new. 2) ill check the grounds and connections, and ill have it checked out at checker. 1) will burp ASAP. was just reading about burping on here, and read that squishy hoses is bad. well they are somewhat squishy so there is probably air in the system.