Terrano1992

I had to cut front end of spindle bolt (between the frame and front lug of LCA) with small angle grinder (125 mm cutting wheel), next grind off head of the bolt (flush to rear lug surface), then drive it out of the rear lug with big punch and heavy hammer. Needless to say, I had new replacement bolts (by the way, spindle bolts for WD21 and Xterra/WD22 are the same).

12 - Mass air flow sensor circuit is open or shorted (abnormally high or low voltage is entered to ECM input). 34 - Knock sensor circuit is open or shorted (abnormally high or low voltage is entered to ECM input). 51 - Injector circuit is open. 45 - Injector leak. 23 - Unknown error (maybe, this is your mistake by counting LED flashes?). So, you have a couple of errors (12, 34, 51) commonly caused by wiring damages. Check all wires between sensors (injectors too) and ECM (electronic module under the front passenger seat) before replacing any components. Test it for wire breaks and short-circuits to ground (or to another wire). Check ECM ground circuit also (for good, non-rusted metal connection to body ground). Repair all discovered wire damages. Clear error codes, run engine, then check errors again. 4wheeldrivefun - you too...

IMHO, $70 for only 2 (two) additional rearmost body mount bolts (metric M12x1.25mm, length 180mm for 3-inch lift, grade 8.8 or higher) is too expensive, isn't it? Good deal for supplier, but... maybe, you can directly ship them from Europe (Germany, for example) with this money? This is only difference between 1987-1990 and 1990-1995 lift kits. All other parts are the same.

This plug is not a part of ECU. This is "jumper plug", i.e. part of harness. It serves as interconnection between harness wires to join multiple wires in the same circuit (for example, to ground). It has only jumpers between contacts inside the plug case.

I had the same trouble 2 years ago. No CEL, code 55, but engine revs only up to 2800-3000rpm. Detailed examination found the culprit. There were short circuit in ECM harness (exactly - part of harness in passenger footwell, under the carpet). One wire (TPS power supply) had faulty insulation and was shorted to the ground. As a result - no power (+5 volt) on TPS, no feedback signal from TPS to ECM. One piece of electric insulation tape, 15 minutes of work (diagnostic time is not included) , and my truck was recovered. This case is not described in FSM. When you press accelerator, ECM thinks "throttle isn't opened, but engine spontaneously revs up" and temporarily cuts off fuel injectors for safety (I suppose). Maybe you have the same trouble...

"Genuine Nissan" O2 sensors - NGK/NTK.

Remove upper front half of timing belt cover and look to timing belt. If you see broken belt - most probably, you have from one to all 12 valves bent. Next step, if belt is not broken. Take any marker, put mark on outer belt side and rotate crankshaft, until you see mark again (one full turn). Inspect belt teeth during rotation. If you see "tear-out" teeth - possible consequences are the same as with broken belt. And final step is all 6 cylinders compression test. If you have bent valves - you also have very low compression in this cylinder.

Kingman, look here: WD21 rear hatch sensor fix

You don't need to mark it. Crankshaft has a key, balancer has a key slot inside. So it can be set only one way.

Add fuel pressure check to your list. Low pressure brings to power loss and throttle lag also. Most often, it's worn fuel pump on aged cars...

Yes. The front sensor (with single-wire connection) is for dash, and the rear (two wires connection) - for ECU.

Yes, I agree. I love "large bright red lamp", which tells me "check all things, something is wrong". But where are gauges to check "what is wrong" without special service tools? In that case "red lamp" tells me "immediately stop and call authorised service", but not a "check all systems"... But I disagree your opinion about coolant temp gauge. Had calibrated mine (and thermal transmitter) 2 yrs ago. I know which temp (+-5 deg.C) corresponds to any position of needle and don't have need for digits written at gauge scale. When I drive my rig, I don't read accurate values from gauges anyway - just a fleeting glance to dash to make sure that "all systems are nominal"... So, aftermarket coolant gauge is excess thing for me. I prefer "outer air temp" or other meter instead of one.

AFAIK, only Nissan Patrol GR (Y60) had oil pressure gauge on dash. 1987-95 Pathfinders/Terrano's does not have this item. You'll need aftermarket unit (gauge with suitable pressure sender), if you want it. Some old modifications of Pathfinder dashboards ("orange digits", probably 87..89 year) had a voltmeter. But this gauge disappeared on latest models. I think, installing another aftermarket unit is a easy way (especially because you have 95 Pathy with "round" dash, so old "square" gauges will not fit to your panel). Coolant temp gauge is relative, but you can "DIY" calibrate it. Thermal transmitter resistance is 70-90 Ohm at 60 deg.C (140 deg.F) and 21-24 Ohm at 100C (212F). Take any suitable resistor with this resistance (100 Ohm 2 Watts variable resistor and ohmmeter/multimeter will be more handy), remove connector from transmitter, connect resistor between connector and ground and check/mark gauge needle position...

Use special puller ("bird foot" formed steel plate, bolted to pulley hub) for this work. Universal 2- or 3-jaw pullers are not recommended, if you don't want to have two broken balancers instead of one...

Any REAL timing issue (bad dizzy, cap, rotor, spark plugs/wires, sensors, wiring, computer) calls unstable, rough idle. Slipping pulley affects only timing mark position (which observed with timing light), and not on engine control system. When real timing is too far from 15 BTDC (i.e. timing mark is not visible), engine stalls immediately. Indigent says, his engine idles smooth and stable. So, it's not a problem with ECCS components. I bet to torn harmonic balancer... one of my friends already had similar issue on his Pathy.

I'm not sure - may be torn harmonic balancer (rubber part inside the crankshaft pulley) is the culprit? It will not affect idle rpms, but only timing marks (when outer part of pulley slips relative to pulley hub).

It's easy to reproduce. Take a spray can (with good nozzle, to produce mist, not drops) and gradually spray water to suspected parts (coil, distributor cap, spark wires...) on working engine. Do not "flood" them, only damp down and wait some time.

Your symptoms are very similar to low fuel pressure. Try to check it. One 50psi pressure gauge, one T-joint, two short pieces of fuel hose and several hose clamps - you can do it yourself. Install gauge between fuel filter and fuel injector ramp. Moreover, you can fix gauge to something under the hood and normally drive car with all this stuff. When malfunction come again, you can immediately coast to the side of road, open hood and shoot a glance at gauge. Normal pressure is 34 psi at idle. When it drops to 28 psi and lower, engine has significant lack of power and rough, low idle (or stalls and dies immediately after start, if pressure is too low).

NPORA already helped me. I bought this rig at July 2006 and was new to Pathfinders at that time. First thing I do with it was timing belt replacement (old belt was almost shredded). MrJim's "How to replace timing belt" gave a great, priceless help. Hope I will repay this debt one day...

Hi! I'm from Russia, Mari-El republic. My rig - 1992 Nissan Terrano WD21, VG30E, mostly stock with few minor mods (urethane suspension bushings, steel skidplate, 1.5" bodylift, electric fan, etc.). Future plans - M/T tyres (BFGoodrich or Bridgestone Dueler), 1.5-2" suspension lift, DVD/MP3 player... Oh, i forgot about old slipping clutch replacement (after 190000 kms), to be sure Photos: 1) Puddle on forest road: 2) Some flex posing...

Sam preved !!! BTW, my bodylift kit is "from Iron Locust". Thanx for extremely detailed step-by-step installation manual for this kit - it's fantastic... "Read next step and do it", clear and simple.

You can add another russian "man from the middle" to the list. Here am I - Terrano1992, from Yoshkar-Ola, Russia. And my rig - Nissan Terrano 1992, V6 SE, VG30E, 5-spd manual, LSD, black metallic color, mostly stock with few custom mods. Glad to meet other entusiasts of Nissan Pathfinder!

"4-cyl" manual transmissions (FS5W71C gearbox, for Z24i and TD27T engines) not covered by this TSB, but they are suspected to the same problem (lack of lubrication) even greater. Recommended countermeasures (add 1-1.5 liter of GL-4 tranny oil "over top") are the same for all 1987-95 Pathfinders/Terrano with manual transmissions.

Rearmost body mount bolts are metric, with thread size M10x1.25 or M12x1.25 (depends on truck production year). M10x1.25 used on older trucks (before 07/92? i don't know).

I think, you have incorrectly installed tensioner roller. Correct installation sequence: 1. Install tensioner, hook tensioner spring on stud. Rotate tensioner (use hex wrench) FULLY CLOCKWISE, hold tensioner in this "clockwise to max" position and temporarily tighten tensioner lock nut. 2. Set timing belt on sprockets. Check timing mark aligning on belt, sprockets and belt cover. 3. Loose tensioner lock nut, set required t-belt tension (rotating tensioner COUNTER-CLOCKWISE), retight lock nut, check belt tension. Correct tension if nesessary. I.e., simple rule to check installation - t-belt tension must rise when you rotate tensioner counter-clockwise. And forget all these "5 o'clock"...