Terrano1992

x2 for that. I did it in following sequence. Tilt engine back, using a jack under transfer case, to have easier access to top bolts. Remove them, using a long extensions (wobble or u-joint). Rise tranny to "normal" position and suspend it on a winch cable. Support engine by jack and wood block under the oil pan (do not apply force to the drain plug!) and remove remaining bolts. Also you should remove exhaust U-pipe before tranny removal. No way to pull out tranny bell between U-pipe and body floor, unless you have 3-inch bodylift.

Probably it is normal behavior. Torque converter lock ("top gear" in auto tranny) will not engage until ATF temperature is lower than pre-determined.

Nice idea... But don't forget to stop winch at the right time, or you'll find your Pathy hanging under the ceiling. Seriously, be careful. Offroad winch can pull cable too fast under small load. When you install tranny, you need to do very small movements up and down - literally 1/5 inch or even smaller. I doubt you can operate electric winch so precisely.

1994 are "round tooth"... Can't remember exact date of change from square to round, I think there was 1993.

If you have a compact household winch, you can use it instead of a transmission jack. Assume we have tranny shifters removed already. Borrow a small winch somewhere. Lower front door windows all the way down. Tilt steering wheel down to the max. Close front doors. Take a strong (1.5 inch) steel gas pipe or something similar. Lay it into window openings, so pipe will be placed between dashboard and steering wheel (over the steering column). Use wood block spacers between door and pipe to prevent door scratching and interior ripping. Hook up winch to a pipe above the access plate. Suspend tranny on a winch cable. Now you are ready to unbolt tranny and carefully lower it to the ground. Installation will be done in reverse order. This setup was successfully used last summer when I replaced clutch on my truck. Automatic or manual gearbox - can't see the difference... Gearbox with transfer case weights approximately 80-100 kg. So, don't ever try to hold it by hands, without jack or winch support.

Yet another version - low fuel pressure. When you have 1.8-2.0 bar instead of 2.4-3.0 - no codes, engine starts and can normally work at idle, but can't go over 1500-2000 rpm and almost dies when you try to open throttle wide. "Limp mode" rev limit should be 2500-2800 rpm, so...

Thick oil will flow out of the hub... Grease will not. Practically you can use almost any high quality NLGI-2 grease for auto hubs, just don't put excess grease. It's approved by our Terrano club at Russian winters (up to -35°C). Mobilube XHP222, Castrol LMX and Liquimoly LM50 grease was tested with very good results. Shell Aerogrease #7 (recommended by Nissan as replacement for original KRC19-00025) is very good grease, but hard to find in Russia. So, most of us use standard NLGI-2 (even "Litol", Russian NLGI-2 grease was used with acceptable results).

Glad to hear you have a problem solved. Take the power directly from ignition relay (through additional "in-line" fuse, of course). Or you can create "uninterruptible power source" using 2 suitable diodes. Connect anode lead of each diode to a circuit point where you want to get power (for example, to "Meter" fuse and "Fuel pump" fuse), then connect cathodes together and take a power for additional gauges from this point. Don't forget about fuse rated equal or lower than maximum current allowed for used diodes.

x2 for bad voltage regulator. It's possible that Maxima's and Pathfinder's VR are interchangeable (until both alternators are Hitachi, LR190 and LR170). But I can't say this with full confidence.

Look at page EF&EC-96 of 1994 FSM and follow diagnostic procedure for code 33 (heated O2 sensor). Keep in mind you have intermittent failure, not permanent, when you follow diagnostic steps. You can download 1994 FSM from Internet for free. For example, here.

Next step - "Ignition Relay" (blue relay at the top of fuse panel). Dashboard and A/T control unit are powered through this relay and one common fuse. Look at page EL-7 of 1994 FSM.

Automatic, of course. And i can clearly see a broken wheel stud... Replace it as soon as possible.

Only inner spring-loaded part of this core assy slides in and out. It has two cams. When it rotates relatively to outer sleeve part, these cams moves inner sleeve until sleeve teeth engaged to a "crown" at the bottom of hub case. Outer sleeve rests on a thrust bearing. A/B brake set (friction pair) prevents outer sleeve rotation until rotation torque rises over the specified limit. So, when shaft rotates faster than a wheel, inner sleeve rotates too (outer sleeve is held by A/B brake), cams moves inner sleeve to a "crown" and voila! hub engaged (splined shaft is connected to a hub case). Worn A/B brake set can't provide enough torque to allow cams "make their magic". Yes. It's relatively easy task, but be careful. Hubs from 4-cylinder engines (Z24i, KA24E, TD27T) and early VG30i has 27 splines. V-6 hubs (VG30E and last VG30i) has 28 splines. So, count splines before buy a used hub.

Check fuses and fusible links at first...

Oh, and "how to correctly install auto hub". Place a spring inside the hub. Place "Brake A" at the top of spring. Compress spring fully and rotate "Brake A" until its inner claws engages into corresponding claws inside the hub. Now you can install sub-assemblied hub.

However, last 3-door body and last Z24i engine was produced at 1992. So, you have a truck with replaced frame (VIN stamped at frame), and "frame donor" was 1994. Nothing bad, but some parts on 1987..92 and 93..95 are not interchangeable (for example, steering centerlink). Your wheel caps hides hubs... They are automatic in most cases, but maybe previous owner install manual hubs? Look here first. Very good auto hub description with photos.

Look at 1994 FSM and try to resolve problems caused codes 23 and 51, using procedures described in manual. Pages EF&EC-103..105 (Throttle Position Sensor) and EF&EC-111..112 (TPS Idle Switch), then EF&EC-108..110 (Injector circuit). If code 45 (Injector leak) will not gone after resolving "23" and "51" problems, use procedure described at pages EF&EC-106..107.

If both shafts turning on 4H/4L - check your hubs for possible damages and/or incorrect assembly. By the way, last WD21 with 2.4l engine (Z24i) was produced in 1992, not 1994...

Do you clear error codes from ECU memory after O2 sensor replacement? Codes are not "self-cleared" even after successful repair, you need to clear them manually. Select "Mode 3", read codes again, then change to "Mode 4" to clear old codes from memory. Switch to mode 3 again. If you read code 55 - you have no stored errors.

No. You are in "selection mode". Turn "selector screw" fully clockwise, wait for 3 flashes and turn counter-clockwise (to select "Diagnostic Mode 3").

A couple of errors caused by damaged harness/connectors and/or bad ground? Very common failure for old cars... Clear all error codes, drive your truck (10-20 miles will be enough) and read codes again.

Oil pump located behind front main seal. If you have FMS or pump gasket leak, only bottom of engine (and probably all parts inside timing belt cover) will be oiled. Wipe dry all suspected areas, apply talcum powder and try to locate leak point again.

1st mark is TDC, 7th mark is 30BTDC. 5 degrees between marks.

Yes, engine mechanical parts are the same (except the timing belt sprockets, "round tooth" at 95 and "square tooth" at 90).

Some parts - yes, some - no. For example, exhaust parts are different.