Terrano1992

Hi, Booster, greetings from T-Rex! Sure, I can speak Russian too.

16 short blinks are A/T fault indication, like a "Check Engine" lamp. Try to run A/T self-diagnostic procedure. AFAIK, you can start it with next step by step sequence: 1) Start engine, warm to normal temperature. 2) Set ignition key to "OFF". 3) Set A/T Mode switch (Power/Auto/Hold) to "Auto" (middle position). 4) Set O/D switch to "ON". 5) Move A/T selector to "P". 6) Set ignition key to "ACC" (A/T mode switch lamp will lit for 2 second). 7) Move A/T selector to "D". 8) Set ignition key to "ON" (do not start engine!). 9) Set O/D switch to "OFF". 10) Set ignition key to "OFF". 11) Set ignition key to "ON" (do not start engine!). Wait for 2-4 seconds. 12) Move A/T selector to "2". 13) Set O/D switch to "ON". 14) Move A/T selector to "1". 15) Set O/D switch to "OFF". 16) Depress accelerator pedal to floor, then release it. 17) Look at A/T mode switch lamp. It should start blinking. First one long blink (opening sequence), then 10 short blinks (if all systems are OK). Faulty system will be shown with long blink in 10-blink sequence. Fault code list (blink number - fault location): 1 - VSS transmission circuit open or shorted 2 - VSS speedometer circuit open or shorted 3 - TPS open or shorted 4 - Shift Solenoid A circuit open or shorted 5 - Shift Solenoid B circuit open or shorted 6 - 3-2 Solenoid or Overrun Solenoid circuit open or shorted 7 - LU solenoid circuit open or shorted 8 - ATF temperature circuit open or shorted 9 - Engine RPM circuit open or shorted 10 - Line Pressure Solenoid open or shorted For example, if you see 2nd and 9th blinks are longer then other, you have VSS speedometer sensor circuit and engine RPM sensor circuit malfunctions.

Remember to release fuel pressure and open fuel tank cap first, to prevent fuel spraying and spilling around all engine bay... Sure, but significant power loss at full throttle is a first and main symptom of clogged fuel filter. Filter replacement will not hurt anyway, but i doubt that the filter is a root of your cold start problems.

94+ model year, to be exact. Production date before 06/1993 - square tooth, after 06/1993 - round.

Coil signal schematic diagram is shown at page EF&EC-90 ("Engine Fuel and Emission Control System", EC.pdf). Trace circuit from ECU pin 3. But if you have problem in this circuit, you should get a diagnostic trouble code 21 ("Ignition signal") from ECU. If not - probably, coil "feedback" circuit is fine. Me think, tacho signal generation inside ECU based on signal from CMPS (Camshaft Position Sensor). This is more precisely and robust way. At the same time, ignition signal monitored by ECU to detect misfire and prevent cat damage (unburned fuel into cat). x2 to adamzan - tach itself is the culprit in most cases on 94-95 Pathfinders (with "round" dashboard).

None of above. Pin 42 (connector "33I") is externally connected to pin 21 ("14I"), and both connected to the ground. Ground circuit: pin 42, black wire, SMJ pin L15, black wire, joint connector "C" (212M), black wire, body ground points 232M and 202M. "Ignition signal" from coil goes to ECU (pin 3). ECU, in turn, sends processed signal to tachometer (from ECU pin 2 to tachometer pin 33). There are no direct connection between coil and tach. SMJ is a large connector behind the fuse block (white square, with bolt in center). It connects instrument harness with main harness. Look at "SMJ box" on the top of this diagram (marked as "VG"), not a bottom ("KA"). This diagram shows all wiring versions, both for VG30E- and KA24E-equipped vehicles (also trucks and wagons, auto/manual transmissions). You need to select appropriate fragment using corresponding symbols (VG, KA, F, R, T, W). Symbols "33I", "267M", "212M" shows connector location on the body (or engine) harness. Look at "Harness layout" (EL-79..EL-94), you can find them here. Don't blame Nissan - their diagrams are relatively easy to read and understand. If you doubt, you can try to read Peugeot diagrams (and really screw your brain... ).

For example, download EL part of 1994 FSM here. Look at page EL-38 and EL-39 ("Meter and Gauges - Wiring Diagram").

My 2 cents... This line has a small one-way check valve (buried inside rear door, near the nozzle). This thing can be clogged too. Also, it's impossible to blow hose in reverse direction thru this valve. To DoctorBill: remove rear door trim above the window (simply pull it out, there are clips inside - can't remember, plastic or steel type) to access all these things. Trace hose back from nozzle and you'll see a small plastic thing (one-way valve). I doubt you can pull a new tube without removing some parts of interior trim (roof and front/back window pillars). Check pump motor first. I had an issue with pump intake clogged by dirt (motor whirrs, but don't pumps a liquid).

None of above. VG30E (90..95 Pathfinders) knows nothing about intake air temperature. At the same time, VG33E (96-04 Pathfinder) has MAP and IAT sensors, not only MAF.

You can use Dexron or 75W-90 GL-4 (75W-90 GL-5 is suitable also) for any transfer case, 87 to 95 year. However, Dexron is recommended for cold regions.

Maybe, this is one of modern synthetic "universal GL-4/5" fluids? "Mobilube SHC" (Exxon/Mobil), for example? By the way, excellent 75W-90 gear oil...

Me think the only problem can be drill out two self-shear screw heads to remove old lock cylinder from steering column (10 minutes of working with center punch and cordless drill). All remaining work looks like a child play...

I can explain more, this is not a misterious thing. Thick (high viscosity) gear oil causes slow irregular rotation of front propeller shaft when "2H" selected in transfer case (thick liquid acts as a viscous clutch). As a result, you can hear repeated clicks or whirring at front axle, produced by spontaneously engaged (and immediately disengaged, because you have no real torque on driveshaft) automatic hubs, until transfer case oil warms to working temperature. Dexron-III or higher spec ATF really helps to cure this problem. At least, up to -25..-30 deg.C.

Yes. Check your "A/B brake" pair height, as described in FSM. Replace if they are worn. Also, fill transfer case with Dexron-III or any other equivalent ATF, not a gear oil. Dexron has a less cold viscosity than 75W-90 GL-4/5. It's a Nissan recommended thing.

x2. Oxygen sensors used on 94-95 and 90-93 are completely incompatible. Titanium sensor ("thin", M12 thread) was used on 90-93 and zirconium ("fat", M18 thread) on 94-95. They have totally different voltage output. As a result, 94-95 ECU has different HO2S input circuit, incompatible with early version.

How old is brake fluid in your clutch? Try to replace it wit a fresh DOT-3 or DOT-4 fluid and flush (bleed) all system.

x2. This thihg is "sunload sensor". Used to change automatic A/C operating mode when cabin is exposed to direct sunlight.

Yes, it can be one of possible causes. Worn electric motor and faulty wiring/corroded connectors are other common problems.

Cracked solder joints are common failure for any automotive electronic modules exposed to vibration impacts. Not only DRL - power window amplifier, power door lock timer, etc... If you see heavy component (relay, connector) with solid pins soldered directly to printed circuit board - these solder joints are prone to cracking. So, open a module and resolder all suspected joints (even if they look good) as a last hope before throw it away and replace with a new...

Can't agree. I know at least 2 good AWD offroad vehicles - Lada Niva and Mitsubishi Pajero (with "SuperSelect" transmission, not "EasySelect"). Both have manually engaged central diff lock, of course. Last Nissans (JDM R50 Terrano Regulus, 2005 Pathfinder, Armada) uses hydraulic clutch (with electronic control) instead of inter-axle differential. Clutch can be fully disengaged ("2H" mode), partially engaged ("Auto" mode, limited slip allowed, so clutch acts like inter-axle diff) and fully engaged ("4WD Lock" mode).

You need a completely different transfer case (with inter-axle differential), not a front axle. Any transmission without center differential (or automatic center clutch, like 2005 Pathfinder ATX14A transfer case) will "bind" on 4High/4Low when you make a sharp turn on a road with a high-traction surface.

I doubt you can remove helical lock ring from hub without vice or helper (unless you have 3 hands ). You need two hands to operate with two flat screwdrivers and third hand to hold hub at the same time... No. You can unscrew bolts without wheel removal? It means you can remove hub also.

Front main seal?

4-banger (Z24i/KA24E), diesel (TD27/TD27T) and V6 (VG30i/VG30E/VG33E) bellhousings are completely different.

Most common causes are coolant temp sensor or low fuel pressure. Maybe both at one time.