Terrano1992

I don't know specific manufacturer, but the same things are widely used as electric forklift battery connectors. Try to Google "forklift connector" and you'll find variety of links. Price will be reasonably lower, i think $12-15 for a piece of 50 Amp. Be careful - forklift spare part suppliers frequently sells those things as a halves (second half can be installed at new battery case). So, you can accidentally buy only one half of connector... Request a complete thing, not a half.

Which temp sensor you have recently replaced? Coolant temp sensor belonged to ECU (it has 2-contact waterproof connector), or a dasboard sensor (single-blade open contact on the head)? If you have ECU sensor malfunction (or damaged sensor harness), air/fuel mixture ratio can be too rich.

Remember about Nissan "Fairlady Z". JDM equivalent of 300ZX, with a VG30DETT (twin-turbo) under the hood. But this engine is too wide to find room under WD21's hood... It can be fitted here, but with great difficulties.

"LS" suffix means "Limited Slip" additive. I think this oil is supposed for use in limited slip differentials, not in manual gearboxes. Another Mobil1 example: Mobilube SHC (synthetic 75W-90 for all GL-4 and GL-5 applications) and Mobilube SHC LS (synthetic with "Limited Slip" additive, 75W-90 GL-5, for limited slip diffs).

You are right. Drain it and replace with GL-4. Lift this side up (for example, park a car on a slope).

Tachometer failures are not a rare case on previous (87-93) years also. The same defect cause: first - "little brass screws", second - failure of small electronic board inside the gauge (bad soldering or chip faults).

These blue rubber caps are only color filters, nothing else. Do not worry about cluster overheat until you use bulbs with the same total power.

"One side up" will be enough to check ball joints and wheel bearings play. Also perform preliminary steering play check in this position. Then repeat with other side. For a final steering play check - both front wheels are on ground. Call helper. He/she will turn steering wheel left and right, while you inspect all steering components (TRE's, CL, idler and pitman arms).

Most trailer connectors are supposed for maximum load of 10-15 Amp per contact - so, don't use it... Also, i don't know banana plugs capable to withstand 50-75 Amp current. They make special (up to 175 Amperes) quick connectors for winches. For example, ComeUp WA-0102 (175 Amp continuous current, red). ComeUp WA-0101 (50 Amp continuous current) looks similar, but has smaller size and black color. 1.5-2x short-time current overload allowed for both connectors. They sold as a pair (both connector halves). And a last advice - do not try to use hitch receiver iron as a "ground". Bad contact will make your winch inoperable when you need it. Grab a piece of 10 gauge black wire, reliably connect it to a body/frame (and to a second contact of winch connector) and use it as a ground circuit.

Inner CV can be relatively easy disassembled and removed from a shaft. Then grease outer CV and replace outer CV boot, put inner CV boot on a shaft, assemble inner CV and slide a boot on it. It takes appoximately one hour of work if you know how to do it. So, I will replace entire shaft assy only if both CV (not CV boots) are in junk state...

Yes, you can, if you want to clean residue from all sprayed parts... Carb cleaners are formulated to quickly dry without residue. Another practical "spray part and find a leak" trick. Now about leak of electricity. Specially for people who has an engine misfire caused by ingnition failures. Take a household spray bottle, fill with clean water. Tune nozzle to a "fine mist" spraying. Gently spray water on suspected part (plug wires, plug caps or distributor cap) of working engine, to slightly moist it. If this procedure leads to obvious misfire, suspected part must be replaced. Before use this trick, be sure you can quickly and easily find replacement part if you check your daily-driver car. This trick can irreversible bring faulty electric part out of commission.

WD-40 dries out too slow for me (I am impatient sometimes ), and all parts gets oiled inside the spray area. I prefer to use "carb cleaner" (cheapest one, not a "synthetic formula") for this purpose. It dries quickly, so you can spray a relatively wide area and, if engine reacts to spraying, wait 1 minute and re-test it with a narrow target to pinpoint a leak place. Safety measures are simple - don't spray carb cleaner on plug wires (or any other potentially sparky places) and very hot places (exhaust manifold, etc.). And have a fire extinguisher on hand (it's a standard safety measure when working on a fuel system).

There is a main, multi-functional self-recovery device - a shovel. You can dig a hole, bury your spare tire into the ground and use it as an anchor. It's a last resort, but if you have nothing better...

Also you can use "Carb Cleaner" or "Easy Start" spray instead of propane. Use with caution, these liquids are extremely flammable.

Yet another pilot bushing puller... Borrow a metric M18 tap ("draft" tap will be better choice) and a steel ball (13-15 mm diameter) from a big ball bearing. Insert a ball to the bushing hole, then screw tap into a bushing (like you try to thread bushing). When tap end will set against the ball, subsequent tap rotation pulls bushing out of the crankshaft. I don't know which "inch" tap can be substituted instead of metric M18. Try on yourself. Also this trick is suitable to extract almost any worn bushing from a blind hole. Just select a right size of tap and ball.

Hey, Bill - you already have a place for a vise on your receiver! Or for a small lathe, or mill... It's just a joke. Really good setup. And you have a place to future upgrade your winch, if you'll desire to do it (because this mount designed for 6000-9000 lb winches). About a "personal winch anchor" - "Warratah" should be the best choice on more or less solid ground, because it is compact. "Pull-Pal" is strong and irreplaceable thing on swampy soil, but eats too much trunk space.

Outer (and inner) bearing rings are called "bearing races". They comes with a new bearing. R50 front axle setup has some differences from WD22 (Xterra) and WD21, but you can refer to Xterra how-to. Main procedures are the same.

Warn hitch mount was developed for 2-3 times more powerful winches (6000..9000 lb) than yours. For 3000 lb (6000 max with pulley block) you can build a homemade copy of this setup (lightweight and not so strong). Also, #10 AWG wire is absolute mimimum you need to power up your winch. Typical 3000 lb winch eats up to 35-40 amperes from the 12V battery. Thin wire creates two main problems: 1. It will overheat (and melts all around) under high current; 2. Large voltage drop across long (5-6 meters) thin wire folows to significant drop of winch power. Look at factory wires diameter on your winch. You need the same. About a fuse - you need 80..100A "slow-blow" fuse for this setup. Have a spare (or two) in a tool box.

Bill, i think nobody here wants to disgrace you. But i agree with other members - ball (and ball receiver) are weakest points of your construction. If you have a standard 2" square hitch receiver (with removable ball rod), i recommend to rebuild your construction. Create something similar to WARN "hitch-mounted winch". It will be stronger and safer. Free-shaking (rotating) winch under high load is a very dangerous device, believe me...

Why not? It can be usable as a rear winch. 3000 lb pull (6000 lb with pulley block) will be enough to put wheels into traction (combined forces of wheels and winch). For front winch - yes, you need minimum 9000 lb (or 6000 with pulley block).

IACV-AAC valve located under intake plenum (at left side of engine), nearby the IACV-Air Regulator "tower". It's not a self-diagnostic item (valve failure don't produce any error codes). You can't remove/replace it without plenum removal. Diagnostic procedure: disconnect AAC connector (smallest of four connectors near the oil fill port, it has only two wires). Check valve resistance, as Indigent said. Next, you can start engine (with disconnected valve) and feed 12 volt directly to a valve solenoid (from the battery terminals, using 2 pieces of wire). Engine must immediately rev up to 1800-2000 rpm, while valve is powered. If not, you have a clogged valve. Be careful, don't short wires by accident...

Me think you have aftermarket speakers installed in your doors. They are deeper than factory (Clarion's), and window hits speaker magnet (and jams) half way down. I had to install plywood rings (12 mm thick) between speaker (Pioneer's) and inner door panel to avoid this problem.

Oh, no. Code 11 means Camshaft Position Sensor failure (CMPS located inside the distributor). Code 13 is Engine Coolant Temp Sensor. You can test it with ohmmeter. ECTS nominal resistance is 2100-2900 Ohm when engine is cold (20C/68F) and 300-330 Ohm when engine is hot (80C/176F). You have two coolant temp sensors on VG30E. Sensor with 2-pin connector is used by ECU (code 13 when fault), and sensor with single pin - by dash temp gauge (no error codes, but gauge shows incorrect readings).

Code 12 (Mass Air Flow Sensor circuit) means not only MAF sensor itself, but MAF sensor wiring faults also. You have already test your MAFS (by replacement with a new one without any changes). So, you have a wiring (harness) failure... Probably, your temp gauge harness has faulty also... Main rule of diagnostics: don't replace "faulty" sensor before you examine sensor harness.

Yes, exactly. One tooth. This is not a complex task. 18-20° BTDC is good angle for LPG or high-octane fuel. However, it can lead to a knocking with standard (87..91) octane. Me don't think so... Your tach was designed for very old type of ignition systems. To check modern engines, you need a tachometer with "contactless" sensor (inductive or capacitive), like modern timing lamps has (this type of sensor clamps over a high-voltage wire). You can try to remove dashboard from bezel and tighten small nuts (or screws? - can't remember) connecting tachometer to a printed circuit board, to restore electric contact. Sometimes it helps.