tmoore4512

I keep telling myself I need to video it and put it on youtube...

I concur...completely. It makes no sense to delete the gauge and add a light that NEVER comes on...

Yes, I thought so too...but it only happened AFTER I went crazy with my torsion bars. I cranked em up and started having issues, now they are slightly higher than stock and hadnt had an issue since... And a screwdriver works too... So does the hand spin technique!

I dig the ingenuity bra!! Looks good... Makes me want to put a second carrier on the driver side for other shenanigans...

Okay, got mine installed...pictures soon...

Yes, the problem I encountered on mine was the retaining bolts (tiny little guys that keep the lock ring in place) kept shearing. Last time I had to service my wheel bearings I replaced those guys... Had no issues since. Yes, it still gets loose but that is part of it....just not caused by the lock ring backing off...essentially just wear. I use a punch to tighten up mine, a tool could be made no problem like Kingman said, but a punch works great.

Nice! And yes, the Taurus fan draws a crap ton of amperage on startup... Although I gotta say that it is pretty dang cool to set the assembly on the shop floor and hook some extended leads up to it, then touch to a hot battery and watch it "hover" around...haha

Yes, I believe this to be the case...essentially when motor is running and you ground that wire the light on dash comes on. So out it goes!!!! Woo Hoo!

My thoughts exactly... Now to just find the adapter...so I can install my sending unit...

aHardbody throwing down some good info here!

Interesting concept. BLAST! Now I am trying to justify doing mine!

So it may just work then: Removing factory idiot light switch and installing Autometer sending unit in its place.

Okay guys...question: After looking at the room situation with the oil sending unit and a subway sandwich adapter along with my relo-kit... So the factory oil sending unit is simply an "idiot light switch" based on what I can see... I cannot confirm that the ECU actually takes a "reading" from this one wire, so unless I am missing something (which is possible)...why not just put the new Autometer oil pressure sending unit in place of the factory? Thoughts?

Rear main was my "main" issue. Valve covers too... Now I need to do my cam seals...and I guess a timing belt...AGAIN. Then again, you haven't said what your actual fuel mileage is yet...

Yea no doubt, they are the same...I have an 02 X transfer case in mine right now...same EXACT thing...

Welcome bra! Good lookin Pathfinder! Dude nothin wrong with a 2WD, but if you wanted to swap I bet that you have a cutout already for the TCASE shifter!!! SAS BROTHAH!!!

Man, this is an old thread but I just came across it once again... I tell you what I ended up doing: I removed the factory gasket and inspected it finding that it had a BUNCH of caked up debris around several points...cleaned it up, used some baby oil on it to break up the built up debris and once it was all soft and pliable put it back on using the 3M adhesive and it was good to go. Hadn't had a leak since... Oh and I bought a whole roll of the weatherstripping material from Lowes too...it is still sitting on the shelf collecting dust... I wonder if Lowes would let me return it...since I STILL HAVE THE RECEIPT! (It was taped to it haha)

Oh it is CAKE with a 3 inch body lift... Done a motor pull years back and two trans swaps! AS much as I hate the body lift I love it too...

Man some of those dash installs look fantastic. Good job guys! Mine is ghetto. I cut my console in half and trashed the rear portion, then installed a TROY console from a Ford Crown Victoria and install all my comm and lighting control equipment in there... Pictures soon...gotta find em.

Personally I did the Taurus SHO E-Fan swap...it made a world of difference in cooling efficiency and (to me) it gave the stock 150ish HP a bit of a boost... Quest fan has been done before, I couldn't find it on infamousnissan, but I read a write up a while back about it. It could've been one of our NPORA guys, who knows.

Yes, I could have...I guess I just enjoy fixing things haha.

A rather simple job to do...you can do it bra!

UPDATE: Today while driving home, I rolled window down and upon arriving home went to roll it up...it would not come up, but I could hear the motor running just like before... Disassembled the door panel and removed the window and regulator/motor and inspected... Turns out that there is just enough play in the shaft that runs through the gear box to the window regulator...and it can back out of the modified steel bushing thus losing the ability to turn it...if that makes sense. Essentially all I did to correct this was to push the shaft back in fully, and then tack weld the shaft to the steel bushing. Problem solved. Problem staying solved. (I did not get pictures this time but if you look at the last picture I posted you can see where the shaft comes through the steel bushing...tack the two together and grind em down slightly then re-assemble.)

So far so good...have not been "taking it easy" on it either since there is currently no air in my truck...

(This was completed on my 1995 WD21) The problem: Power window stops going up or down, or while up suddenly starts going down without the switch being activated. And when you try to "roll window up" you hear the motor but nothing happens. What likely happened: (Or in my case what DID happen) Inside the power window motor gear box is a rubber piece that is molded like a "cog" which mates up with the large round plastic gear that makes contact with the worm gear that is attached to the motor drive shaft itself. The rubber "cog" is molded to a steel bushing that connects to the square "peg" that transfers the power of the motor to the regulator which in turn moves the window up or down depending on the polarity of the motor based on the demand by the end user. The rubber "cog" breaks loose from the steel bushing and it no longer is able to turn the large plastic gear which stops all movement of the window. This may be because of age, deterioration, humidity etc. The motor had low resistance and still operated very well, so I could not justify replacing the entire unit however I was unable to locate a replacement rubber gear to rebuild the gear box. Since money does not grow on trees, and I am more than capable (or just adventurous enough to try) to fix it myself...it is time to get creative... The fix: (Assuming you have already disassembled the door panel) 1. Remove the window from the regulator. 2. Disconnect power window motor wiring harness. 3. Remove the window regulator and motor from door. 4. Remove motor assembly from regulator and set regulator aside. 5. Remove metal cap from gearbox on motor. (Carefully pry it from the plastic housing) 6. Inspect the rubber cog, if destroyed remove. (Steel bushing will be left in gear box) 7. Disassemble the gear box. (Remove the regulator drive shaft from plastic gear and bushing, one end is square like a 3/8 drive ratchet. It pushes out with some force, remove steel bushing, then remove large round plastic gear) 8. Clean rubber debris from steel bushing. (I used a bench grinder with wire brush) 9. Find some steel pieces to fit in the cog to fill "the void." (I used a 16 penny nail) 10. Cut to size and weld it up. 11. Fit the steel bushing with the newly welded items into the plastic gear, then into the gear box. (May require some fine tuning to properly fit. I had to bend my nails a few times to get it proper) 12. Reassemble gear box completely, including metal cap. (Don't forget to lubricate the assembly! I used white lithium grease) 13. BEFORE you re install the motor to the regulator, test it by connecting it back to the power window harness and operating it as you would using the power window switch. (If no noise, and smooth operation then your good to go) 14. Attach motor to regulator and reinstall into door. (Good time to lubricate regulator too!) 15. Replace window back into the door and attach to the regulator. 16. Re-connect wiring harness. 17. Test the window. 18. Re-assemble the door. 19. Enjoy! The problem (steel bushing is not shown in this picture) Here is the modified steel bushing. (One of the nails had to be bent to fit properly) The parts laid out (shaft already installed in gear box) Back together minus the metal cap and grease.