tmoore4512

I agree with Dma251. In my own experience running yellow tops, I had mediocre life. The first one I ran lasted for a very long time, and when it finally meant its service life and would no longer charge I replaced it with the same, but was disappointed. It simply died after about 9 months and Optima only carries a 6 month warranty. So I ended up purchasing a Duralast Gold and have had nothing but good results. I guess it boils down to what you need and or want. I have a large winch, and multiple lights, and no issues.

I am working on building one similar for the driver side of my rig for a few items...you have inspired my creative (or destructive!) side...

I have started to compile a list of what all is needed to do this build, and man it is already stacking up on cost... Part of it!

Hauled off the trash... Then parked it back where it was...

Great thought process! Years back a few guys and I did an S10 Blazer to a K5 Blazer frame. It was awesome... Then we put an old Ford Aerostar body on a Bronco frame...it was...ugly but turned heads!

They did...it started out as a VG30E then they swapped in the 33. Its a really REALLY well written series of articles.

Man I need to upload those pictures. At any rate, Ebay has em...a ton of different styles and prices... Amazon, Jegs, etc....

I have to look back at photos PERIOD when I do mine! EVERY TIME!!!

Everybody has an opinion. I have seen several high dollar rigs that were rhino'd and looked fantastic. Its all in what the end user wants or needs.

Definitely sounds odd to have a bent shaft. That would be a strange phenomenon...Although possible. I would do some more in depth checking on your own if your comfortable with it. Proper way would be to remove the shaft after you have eliminated every thing else on the way to pullding it out. Good luck bro!

I rhino'd my front bumper. Did fairly well, heck of a mess to clean up though. I should have just powder coated it like the rear but it is what it is.

Oh yea...WELCOME BRO!

R50 is the model designation of the 1996 through 2004ish years Pathfinders...

I am on my MDT and cannot find it either! Sometimes the search function on here is wacky.

Yes, but I have seen see through head rests in XE's in the yards... And believe it or not I snagged the whole inclimoter/altimeter dash pod from an XE...so there ya go...

No, thank you for the heads up that I would need the adapter! Saved some time in a tight area trying to figure out why it would not thread in! Haha

I knew someone who has done the deed would chime in!

Man you got me... I have the same hubs on my WD21. And they don't look that bad, I broke the rules (as usual) and greased all the parts on install, and a few times after when I was servicing them...so they are in good shape... But yea...I was referring to YOUR WD21 and NOT your spousal units! Apologies! LOL

I love it when mech's act like they are the end of the line, and that nobody else can possibly know anything about the problem... Obviously there are times when we all get stumped and need a second set of eyes to look at the situation and report back...but dang man, lose the arrogance! And then to not admit when your wrong...come on. Agreed. Gauges are important.

I stand corrected.

Dang B...glad you did not actually ever NEED to use em...and then they fail. I could so make a "mall crawler" joke but will refrain! Good catch....gotta go take mine apart now! Grrr Finally got Tapatalk to work! Yeaaah!

No they are the barb fittings...they were simply not tight enough in the relo plate. I am pretty excited about the oil pressure gauge...and am (not entirely) hoping to prevent any issues by being able to monitor... Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

Its hit or miss for sure! In my junkyard scavenging I have come across several XE's that had more options that my SE ever had... Sigh.

Agree fully with the previous two posts. I would suggest that you follow the two large lines that come out of the intake piping between the MAF and the throttle body. One goes to a hard line that routes around to the PCV on the passenger side valve cover the other goes back through a second hard line that goes into the motor to feed the PCV system. While looking at your truck with the hood up standing in front of the motor, facing it...look at the hard lines. One comes straight towards you, the other goes to the driver side. Both have an intermediate rubber hose that connects them to the intake piping using Nissan's favorite clamps. Those jokers WILL CRACK. The one that comes straight out towards you, parallel with the motor is the one you need to seriously check. Its strange because when disconnected the motor will not run at all. When connected with a minor leak it runs like you described. When connected properly it runs perfect. Just my .02

Yep as long as you have no coils you should be able to eliminate that from the equation. Coils tend to create another "antenna." Do you know what brand of coax you installed? There is definetly good and better and BEST out there...and it almost always has to do with shielding when it comes to low band stuff like CB's. CDN_S4.... I disagree bra! 27Mhz is crazy! A properly tuned system can talk for hundreds of miles...I have done it! And that is standard "Chicken Band" and NOT SSB....