tmoore4512

Something that had me baffled for some time... Wife took it and changed the oil at one of those "quik lube" joints in town. It started leaking pretty good after that... Thought it was the filter... Turns out the bastards put almost 5 quarts in it. Blew out some seals...but always read FULL. Ya may wanna make sure you dont have too much oil in it.

Relatively easy if you already have fog lights, and a switch in your center console. 1. Remove switch from console. 2. Turn headlight switch to the "ON" position. 3. Use multi-meter/test light to find which wire is HOT or B+ 12 volts. 4. Run a second 20amp circuit to the switch. OR 5. Find relay (pass side next to wiper motor as already mentioned). 6. Using steps 2 and 3 find which terminal on the harness that has B+ 12 volts. 7. Work in a fused 12v constant or ignition fired lead on that terminal. Some minor common sense and electrical knowledge is probably a good idea.

...eFan shines in stop and go traffic... Unless you've got an abundance f mud and leaves gunked up in your radiator...or multiple coolers added you shouldnt have any issues while in motion at standard highway speeds... I have never had anything but good results with electric fans. Even the aftermarket t-stat/relay kits work great.

The problem is that it all funnels down to the size of the butterfly/intake. So if you run 2 snorkels at 3 inch a piece, and the intake is only 2.5 inches... The filters would not have to be serviced for a longer duration, which in itself could be a plus if the climate and conditions were dusty and such. I used a dewalt grinder box, modified to hold a K&N cone truck filter on the roof of my XJ. I had baffles installed to keep water out, worked great. Filter stayed relatively clean, and when going about 55mph it kinda forced a bit of air into the box...seemed to show some improved throttle response.

Ran into the same problem with my old XJ jeep. Had a custom PVC snorkel and airbox on the the roof...during a ride out to Baja, the filter gave up the ghost...

Yea, havent quite got the dimensions correct...when I do I will post pictures. Should be interesting, even if it doesnt improve anything.

I have fabricated an adapter plate, out of some scrap metal, and am currently working on a few sections that will "seal" with the hood when closed....to literally enhance the "cold air" effect...by not sucking in HOT engine bay air as with just mounting the conical filter to the MAF. Sort of sectioning the area where my filter is off from the rest of the engine compartment...I have even thought about putting a forward facing vent in the top side of my hood to sort of force air into the area where the filter now resides...

Been reading through multiple articles all over the web regarding this very issue on different types of vehicles. I have built a few rock buggies and various other higher than normal performance vehicles with E fan swaps and have had great results. I have achieved a small increase of MPG's as 98silverpathy said earlier, on quite a few vehicles by doing similiar swaps. Just from a hypothetical view, in theory removing the drag from the clutch and the fan will free up some "power" (LOL). Thus reducing the amount of petrol to run the motor because it is not having to cut the air...A little more strain on the alternator, yes, but its no more drag (from the fan) on the v-belts! A huge increase? No. Small...yep, and EVERY bit helps when petrol is as high as it is...

By "to do" I meant when I adress the heat issue. Unfortunately I am not sure how many people had this truck before me, nor how hard they were on it...it is in VERY good shape for the mileage. None the less, belts, t-stat, water pump and timing belt are all in line...I drove a hardbody pickup for several months a while back that had the v6, it ran about 1/4 to half gauge all the time. I am curious if my gauge is just broken...it is an electrical unit right?

Timing belt is on the list of "to do," Yes selector is in the recirc position, fluid levels are good, temp gauge has NEVER climbed over an 1/8 inch. Temp selector moves well, not too much resitance, yet not too loosely either. I may try the cardboard, and see how that does just for kicks. I am really not looking forward to tearing the whole front of my motor off just to change the t-stat...but such is life!

Once again I apologize, I was referencing the older model's stopping at around 1988. Truck has 200997 miles on it. I bought it with 199981 miles on it. I have no idea when the timing belt was changed. I imagine that would be a good one to adress as well.

Manual climate controls, I assume it operates cable/damper rather than servo 's and sensors...

Ive been a GM man for many years, built multiple trucks frame up...always swore I wouldnt own an import because of the tightly knit engine bays. None the less, now I venture into unchartered waters... is there anything else in that general area that is considered a "wear part" that you guys would reccomend changing while I have it apart?

Obviously that is the way it SHOULD be. Hahaha...the housing the contains the t-stat is BURIED...alot of stuff has to come off to get to it...

Also, clutch on the fan is good to go...was afraid the t-stat was part of it...not too happy about trying to get to it...looks like a daunting task...

I apologize for not making it clear. It will BLOW you out of the truck...as far as CFM's is concerned. The air temperature is the issue. If sitting still it will warm up a little bit, but once you go down the road it cant keep up. Not 100% sure if the temperature of the air changes I dont think it does, but more or less just cant keep up with the cold outside. If that makes sense.

my 95 gets 9 to 10 mpg, factory 31's...costs nearly 60 to fill it up...and no ECU codes...go figure. I miss my honda.

Okay so I bought this Pathfinder and drive it daily to work. I take my kids to school and pick them up as well. During these months it has been mid 20 degree weather. I have to start my truck around 10 to 15 minutes prior to departing just to take the edge off, not to mention helps defrost a little bit... My mother in law has a 96 maxima, and had her heater go out. I had to jack the front end of the vehicle around 38 inches up to bleed the air out of the heater core...now it works great...until the air leaks back in...(she doesnt want to pay to have the leak fixed.) My pathfinder leaks oil, not coolant...how do I rectify this issue...if I cant, I am selling the beast...lol