tmoore4512

I realize this is an old post but came out after a pretty typical heavy rain and the driver seat was soaked....figured it was time to do the sunroof drains (I had actually thought about completely deleting the sunroof as it is silly on this thing but I digress.) This is a great idea, thanks!

Agreed dude. It is wild, but it is equally difficult to locate silly parts. I am probably about to try and fit some VG33 Frontier headers on my WD21 but cannot find exhaust manifold studs. Gotta love it.

Well, this is interesting. I did not even think about this dude, nice! For now, my E-fan comes on as you described... And the system is holding pressure, so I am not going to pull that sensor to swap in that little guy for the optimal efficiency we all need out of these weak little 153 hp monsters, BUT.... Now I know! Thanks!

I am pretty certain that it was mentioned, I believe by Level9 or maybe the incredible Adamzan... But I just did this, (seriously, today about three hours ago) and it is the second time I have. New compressor did not have the same electrical connection, so grafted in the OEM. This new one I just put on is a UAC, which replaced a Four Seasons. The OEM and the Four Seasons had the sensor in the back of the compressor; the UAC does not. Anyway, it works like a champ. Finding the parts is getting harder and harder for these relics, unfortunately. Like Adam said, I was going to just rebuild the Four Seasons, and still might, because that shaft seal is what has let go on the last two....and the price of the compressor keeps going up. Now I am just rambling.

Great write up as usual, brother!! Dig the way the new wheel looks too. Nostalgic for the mini truck era!! Annnd I got side tracked....what was I searching for when I came across this?

Hey brotein, ran into this same issue. What I found was that the T case linkage was too short to get it to engage properly. Disconnect the linkage and move it manually, then check it. I had to extend my linkage and tack weld it once I got it right, then pull it off and weld it up. No problems since.

Have enjoyed the customer service and quality of parts as well as the overall fair pricing from Barnes 4WD. For those looking for a truss for the Wagoneer they have one that works well. Jeep TJ, LJ, XJ, and MJ Wagoneer Dana 44 Front Swap Kit – Barnes 4WD

Looking for some up-to-date input on where you guys are scoring fab items. Brackets, end links and parts (heim, johnny, etc.) coil overs, coils... I have been out of the game for a bit and all of my sources have dried up. Getting back into the fab game and going to be tackling the waggy 44 surgery soon. Thanks guys.

Well disregard. Found another thread on here after multiple pages of searching that answered the question.

Hey guys, anyone swapped the OEM steering wheel out of their WD21? Just curiosity mainly, but mine is starting to break down as they all seem to do. Thanks for your input!

All great points and things I will try next. I have not worked on this dude in years, life happens. Hell, still have all the components to do the SAS sitting there. Sigh. But she's gotta start and run reliably first. Thanks again. Sent from my SM-G998U1 using Tapatalk

I concur with what the concept is surrounding the inhibitor/interlock relays. Firmly believe corrosion is the culprit and will have to dig in deeper to see if I can locate it. Thank you for the reply.

Okay guys, been a bit. Looking for some insight, as I am experiencing some perpetual starting issues. Pathfinder will not start unless it has a booster or a set of jumper cables connected. Before you say it…. Brand new battery, brand new cables and connectors, brand new starter and alternator. (Literally, within the last two weeks.) My next course of action is to replace all the wiring that has to do with the starting circuit, as it would appear that something is forming enough resistance that it is hindering the flow to fire the starter… Which leads me to my main question: In the PDF manual (#23 electrical) it refers to the “inhibitor relay” or the “interlock relay” depending on the diagram. Does anyone know what exactly this does and is it vitally necessary? Open to your thoughts.

It is next on the list! Planning on pulling all six and rebuilding them with new screens and O rings anyway...,for $20 bucks, I cant beat that. Besides they are relatively easy to pull...

Just an update... No stored codes in the ECU. Vacuum lines are all in tact...and replaced, as of yesterday just to be sure, some were dry rotting anyway. Disconnected O2 sensor, it got worse, back to the same when reconnected. Temp sensor did nothing....hmmm...

I need to add...that it runs great prior to getting to operating temperature... Stupid question...but does the 95 ECU take a serious signal from the temp sender and allow it to affect fuel curves? Its almost like it is not putting enough fuel to the air ratio (throttle plate open), or maybe it is a leaky injector...dumping too much fuel? Frustrated to say the least.

Here I am again....sobbing uncontrollably. Went out and started the pathfinder, let if warm up....then the oldest boy and I went for a very VERY short test drive. Dang thing is doing the exact same thing. Stutters and hesitates if I try to accelerate anything more than VERY SLOWLY. Absolutely ZERO codes, and no CEL. It is doing the exact same thing it was doing from the get go. I am now...at a loss. Is it beer thirty?

Okay I am back, The problem persisted once the motor warmed up to operating temperature. Prior to that the issues were pretty non existent. Here is what I did after tracing and repairing rat chewn wiring. (Jacklegs!): Removed MAFS, and alcohol/Q-tipped it. (It was pretty nasty). Determined which wire in the harness was the ground, cut stripped and soldered/heat shrunk...and tied to known good chassis ground... Holy mother of sweet baby Jesus, it is running better. Still has a slight miss at times, but what can I say....at least it will idle and drive! I proceeded to spray down the engine bay with degreaser and rinse it out...rats had made quite a mess and there was some sap and other residue built up.... Runs good for now. Will address the miss next RDO. But at this time...at least it is not going to the junk yard. Thanks for all the input guys.

Sorry for long delay...life has been wild. TPS was bad, replaced it. Problem persists. I am leaning towards MAF, but I have yet to see a CEL or a code for this. After I get home this afternoon I will check it out... Hope all is well with you guys.

When I get off shift I will put a meter on it and check output voltage just to confirm.

Alternator is good to go, battery is as well. Did some digging, and I believe the TPS is bad. With it unplugged it acts exactly the same as it does with it plugged in. More testing to come.

Been working out of the truck, using winch for pulling wood, rock, etc. No mud, river crossings or anything like that. I did...but no more, been several years. Maxima alternator was swapped about 4 months back, could be defective...

Surprisingly no codes stored. Did the O2 sensor test and it checked out. Manifold is cracked!

Good points, thank you. I will check codes tonight, but have not seen the CEL on even though I know it stores them.

Hey guys, been a 'finder owner for a long long time. Had an issue the other night that has me scratching my head. Utilized the winch for the 1000th time, and when I did the engine quit. Basically every time I would spool in or out, while the truck was idling, it would die. Popped the hood, and held throttle to around 3K RPM and completed the task. Noting that at times it would sound like it was going to die, so I would have to adjust throttle to compensate. Put everything back to normal and all was well. A few days later: Vehicle was running superb as usual, came to a stop at a traffic light, took off and she stumbled, and began to back fire and idle very rough if I pressed on the accelerator. I could barely make it to 25 MPH and found a parking lot. Popped the hood and checked everything I could, nothing out of the ordinary. It had been since the last oil change that I had run a seafoam treatment, and once I limped it home, I did the "through the intake" treatment as I usually do. Only this time I noted that the driver side exhaust manifold was leaking seafoam to the ground. Telling me that either a valve seat is bad, or worse. Where would you start? Suggestions? Next day off I am going to do a compression check, and go from there. Really feel like it is a valve issue, but I value the input from several of the veterans on this forum, and welcome your responses. I don't "mud," cross rivers or bodies of water. Most of my driving is on road, and occasionally off road to a job site, but dust is the only enemy. I work out of this truck, and it has been very dependable. I regularly service the vehicle, and talk nicely to it all the time. I mean just the other day we had a candle light dinner, and watched Netflix. Any help will be appreciated.