tmoore4512

Hey guys, I know this is an old post but I just found it in a search... Something to consider: Many times when I am diagnosing power window/door lock problems one area I look is the harness that runs from the door to the vehicle through the rubber boot... Reason for this, (especially on the drivers door) is because it is opened and closed constantly, more so than the other doors... The wires in that rubber boot bend and straighten over and over...and more often then not if there is an issue that appears to be switch related, but you have done everything to fix...it will be in that harness. Check the wiring harness for breaks if all else fails... Just my .02

I agree some staining is acceptable, and yes I have cleaned the TB and intake several times, all due to having the intake off for top end motor work and was surprised with how much has built up each time. Have been running 15w40 oil since I purchased the truck which drastically reduced engine noise. I know, people will trip out that I am running that weight oil, but I have the same kind of wear as you spoke of. The EGR system is functioning but may be not at 100%, thanks for that.

No sir. Referring to a device that attaches in line of the PCV and air ductwork from air filter box and throttle body, which collects oil blow by and prevents it from getting into the throttle body and intake causing sluggish performance...amongst other things. I have an extra one in storage, may just hook it up and do a write up on it...

So I have cleaned the throttle body and intake several times over the span of time that I have owned the truck and grow tired of the build up of oil and gunk inside... In years past I have built several Honda motors and the fix for the same symptoms above was installing an oil catch can. Yes I have searched, maybe it is not called an "Oil Catch Can" here... Anyone done this to their Pathfinder? If so anyone see any improvement?

Good info here. I cannot agree more with what MY1PATH has posted. Especially the exhaust leak items. Bout to replace my broken (again) manifolds with some headers to fix the same issue... 20-22 mpg? Holy cow.

Yes, I had gained a bunch when I was lifting heavy, but did not change my diet when I stopped hitting the weights as hard. I agree on drill/tap the relo plate, but I scored the sandwich plate for next to nothing with free shipping. So if in the end it does not work, then I will just toss it in the spare part bin and mod the relo...

Never even heard of Golden Mountain Park! Going to have to go visit it soon!

Well... I cut flour and sugar from my diet...no bread...no sugar...4 months later I am down 37 lbs...feel pretty dang good. But I miss eating sweets haha. Back on topic... I ordered a sandwich adapter for my Autometer sender...and a Summit relo kit...will photograph and post when I get it in...

Looking good man! I am still rockin your old Calmini stuff for the time being...one of these days I will do my swap...

Will check and advise...you have a preference on a carrier? Hell want to meet me halfway haha

Interesting...Wonder if this would fix the "worn out key...click when trying to start issues!" Good job, looks clean...

Yes, that is correct...would have simply cost more to do, and seeing physically that the parts were no different did not push me to justify the extra coin. I still have the 2wd 2003 X tranny...you can have it if you pay the freight!

Found this topic and am thinking I may go sandwich similar...relocating my oil filter anyway, and the kit comes setup with an NPT sender port...or oil feed for the turbo I will never have. I think I am more excited about not having il pour all over my dang starter than I am the oil pressure gauge...those things are not cheap.

Sweet deal. Was that the one on CL?

Gentleman...it has been a while since I followed up. Here is what I came up with. Due to time constraints, (50-70 hour weeks) I was unable to do the work myself. After doing extensive research, and getting with several transmission shops here is the verdict: Per Matt at Allstar Transmission in Murfreesboro, TN.... The only difference between the pre 2000 RE4 transmissions is the valve bodies. The newer models have updated valve bodies and can handle more "abuse" due to significant improvements in orifice sizes, pressure, etc. It also addresses the reverse issue due to allowing the proper amount of fluid to get to where it needs to go due to the larger "veins" in the updated bodies. Per Mike at Future Transmission in Murfreesboro, TN.... He said the same thing. We also looked at a master kit from a 1995 RE4, and a 2003 Xterra RE4, side by side. Exactly the same, (even the clutches were the same size) with the exception of a letter designation at the end of the part numbers. So armed with this information, I opted to have Matt at Allstar rebuild one of my 1995 RE4's with a new updated valve body. Cost of parts: $1,345.00 (including new valve body and torque converter) Cost of labor: $455.00 Total cost: $1,800.00 with 12 month 12,000 mile warranty. Hoping to put this fresh rebuild in this coming weekend, if I do not get summoned into work... My conclusion: As far as I know to this point, the valve bodies are the only difference as stated before. The information about larger or beefier parts, I am going to say that honestly I could not see a difference. With the information posted by RJS about larger diameter internals, would not the master rebuild kits have to larger to accommodate? Just my thoughts...based solely on what I have seen to this point.

B, Thank you sir!

I agree with the junkyard trip. For what its worth, the factory "cover" does not really cover a whole lot. When I was running one, I ended up removing my factory one and replacing it with a modified 90's model Tacoma skid plate that I got from...a junk yard... It was not a legit "skid plate" again, as already posted it would not hold the weight of our (over weighted and underpowered) trucks... It was however thick aluminum, and covered more than the factory plate did. Helped keep sticks and other unwanted stuff out of my engine bay. In years past I have made my own protective plates using diamond plate steel, aluminum plate, and even 1/4 plate steel on one of my GM trucks. If your handy with asic tools you can fab up something pretty wicked... But I have to agree, get the side rubbers from Rob, that is if you decide to keep the original style plate...

Yessir, I have no doubt it will swap right in. I guess my main issue here is that there is no real way (at this point) to tell the overall difference between the two types of transmissions.

I need to put both transmissions side by side so I can see the differences. For sure I know the following: The wiring harness on the Xterra transmission is shorter. The vent location is different. Transfer cases Torque converters are different. But this is already common knowledge.

Here are the pictures of the 95 WD21 Pathfinder transmission that came out of my truck. Yep, had one heck of a rear main leak...before. There was no transmission identification tab on this one as there was on the previously shown.

Thanks B, I have spoken at length with Rob, and I think he and I are on the same page...its not etched in stone, and it really should be. Silly Nissan. I went and got schematics from the local Nissan dealership, and both are identical, with identical part numbers etc. Only difference (according to schematics) is torque converters and output shafts between 2WD and 4WD obviously. If it will stop raining for a moment I will get some pictures of the Pathfinder trans...

It could be. The man at Rockauto had no input. I am going to take some pictures of the Pathfinder transmission after I get into the city, and see if possibly there is a difference in the bell housing/input shaft side. I don't believe there to be any difference but we will see.

Here are the promised pictures of the 2003 Xterra 2WD trans...I dont have the 95 Pathfinder trans here in my garage to take pictures of...one is in the truck the other in the bed of another truck. Clearly 2WD Here is the Jatco tab... This is why he told me it was a "4WD" And here is the input shaft side... Will take pictures of the Pathfinder trans when I go back on shift this evening. It is across the county... Adam, I know what you are saying, just curious why the rebuild parts would not be different as RJS posted...and as the FSM states...