nunya

Hmm I gotta couple switches to tear apart and see if I can get em to light (all that lights on mine is my cluster, heater controls [finally], the coin tray/DD sugar packet storage drawer, and glove box)

If your dead set on that specific wheel, I would personally learn the 'new' turning limit as I just have a personal distaste for wheel spacers (especially those thinner 'slide on' ones). Maby there's another company that makes a wheel pretty close to that design that will pop a set out for you with the right backspacing? (your truck, your style. As long as you like em, none of us have to drive it )

You should be able to screw em right in, just remember to count the turns! You get ones with zerks fittings or 'sealed' (shivers) ones?

calm down man... not everyone on the road is a super automotive genius. If they were, mechanics would be homeless. Forums like this are (usually - theres some bad ones) great for 'enthusiasts' or people who WANT to learn more about their vehicle/do their own maintenance but Joe-bag-of-donuts every day normal person is lucky he knows how to put gas in his own car let alone maintenance things that don't have a huge light on the dashboard. No need to get heated over something stupid. Now lets steer it back on topic here... Has any progress been made on getting this one on the road yet?

Well you gotta figure tht we had 2door Pathfinders up until 1990 in North America so it's not a suprise that HBs coulda came over on the same boats as well.

Shame shame... At least theres a good chance it will be emissions exempt Why's the body rot failure issues? (technically some rot is PA legal asong as there's no sharp edges some walking by could snag on and it's not a passage into the passanger compartment) If rotors/drums are thence enough they can be resurfaced to if rusted over too...

From what I understand through silverton (who ain't just some random dork talking out his azz). It's a take out the old-bolt in the new type situation.

Full exocage, rear roof chop, 1 tons, tube doors, etc etc... I can spend your money for ya

Their just 'better'. I'm not an auto person personally but I have thoughts about it when I'm either being lazy, hurt my leg/foot, or contemplate doing more work than I need to already do

You already got an axle, there's one step done in that direction...

Just means it came from the japan plant, not the tennesse assembly plant. Both WhiteOwl and ToolShed were japan built, all my actual roadworthy HBs I've had were Tennesse trucks (ones bought AS parts trucks I never looked/cared). Both wd21s have perfect frames, all the d21s left me with frame rof. Coincidence?

Auto versus 5 speed is one of those thugs that are "user preference". I'd actually 'think' about goeing auto if I could get my grimy hands on one of those Xterra transmissions. If that were the case I would have more donation parts though than just the transmission (if I get ahold of a totaled one)

Downtown parking garages are one of the reasons we still have a little FWD commuter/spare car. Between roof mounts/ski rack crap on my roof and the basket with a full size spare in it on the roof of her truck (both a little higher than stock to begin with) we would be SOL on some parking sitiations.

If your a hat person theres one that clips on the bill of it too... Hands free light is nice!

Mastercraft Courser MTs 33x12.5 16.5s

Most (I said most, not all) unmodified vechiles the radio antenna is the highest point, I'd rather smack that than the top of my windshield... I did a quick measure and my antenna is 31.5", a 99 Explorer hear at work has a 32" one as does a 97 caravan. Our GMC 6500 has a 30" and or HD 3500 wrecker (which uses the same cab as the 6500) has a 30.5" one. I'm not gonna measure every antenna here but it seems to be an average height on the couple larger-than-a-neon things I briefly checked.

under the hatch where the small hardware goes (where the carrier latches and the little guide thing) there are dimples where you drill and the braces are actually there on non carrier trucks but the actual quarter panel where the full carrier mounts around the taillight should be smooth and bracket-less behind it.

Just curious as I have my (her) 4runner basicly set to do the same thing depending on conditions of bumper ends I find for it. Didn't think to just weld the tip TO the bumper, that will deter rattle! (as long as it ain't a tip with a sharp edge it's PA legal to now that bolt on frame patch . Least your gonna fix it)

ToolShed (my parts truck) is a SE and is exact opposite of WhiteOwl (the one everyone around here knows/sees) and is a SE. Both are 88s

Wrong but sadly I see this as truth...

16.5s are more dated than 15s on anything bigger than a Festiva but there are workable sizes (have a 77 f series sitting in the lot right now with 33x12.5-16.5s). I'd check into local laws though first (or have a second set of wheels ready) incase your state ain't beadlock friendly for safety inspections. (especially if your going the re-centering route).

If you have a spare GM 4 pin, you can always grind 2 off

5 speed swap might be "kill switch" enough with today's driving population

Not me, keeps me employed All kidding aside it was basicly covered as to what happened by silverton (with apparently a good remedy/upgrade for you auto people)