nunya

can always go on rock auto as well for parts, get an idler for like 20 bucks, tie rod ends for 5-6 bucks a piece (there's closeout ones currently on there) upper ball joints for 8 bucks a piece, lowers for about 11, etc etc. (of course that's going by the first cheapest priced parts) and do you have the ability to do the repairs yourself? (it's all basically simple stuff and there's walk-throughs around here that can walk anyone confident through a timing belt, im sure we can get you through a set ball joints)

A grand worth of front end work? You get a happy ending with that? Time to get a friend and check the front end for yourself.

Did you do a load test on the battery? It could be getting a little weak/on it's way out as well. Local parts store should be able to do one for free for you

add bars, just be careful it can get addicting

How you plan on fastening it? I see on top of the trim panel, you goeing to mount through it or just ditch it? The insignia tops your off over my eventual plans as well

Bit more involved than I have intentions of doeing... but I have a bunch of spare factory grab handles layin around. If anything you might have just motivated me to actually do something with them (as does every time I get in the wifes 4runner... I love that handle in there)

Last time I had to get any bushings (energy suspension through Steeevo) he did inform me they shipped ou directly from E/S, not off a RR shelf. It did take a day or so over a week to arrive for me, which is average shipping time for stuff to arrive to me anyway

depends on the wheel, I have a couple sets of Toyota steelies that take standard acorn lugs but DO have a set of SR5 4 spoke aluminum wheels that take the "uni-lug style" lugs (which there are apparently Nissan Legos in existance that used the same style lugs as well as Legos that use standard lugs)

Nice try, I already got dibs on most of the "disappearing" wd21 bumpers round here

For wiring an aftermarket, it's not exacty a cut, hack, destroy thing... The 80s are gone you can get a harness at most parts stores/audio shops that plugs directly into the trucks harness (not even snipping a wire) and it is a simple match-the-colors to the aftermarket units wiring. I say keep tinkering with the stock unit if you haven't thrown it under a bus yet though. 1 it's the original piece (if that's something your into), 2 YOU fixed it!

Had a HB trans act like what sounds eerily similar to that... Unfortunately my issue was internal in the transmission.

Also make sure you have good clean connections.

Looks good but 1 question, the paint there to give the 'illusion' of bigger cuts? hide the holes you didn't cut out? some form of protection on the bare tin from cutting? where you plan to cut more? because you can? some/all/none of the above? (just curious)

What's "mpg" ? I get gpm!

IIRC JamesRich used a Quest engine, but I could be imagining things might be worth an ask/pm to him though...

I have a SportRack brand on my (wifes) 4runner with the extension. It came with the little deflector/wing thing and for a tire mount I just used a tie down hook for mounting a factory spare in the trunk of a crown vic. and a cheap cable lock. When I contacted them to get another sticker for the wing (one on it was pre-installed and crooked) Thule actually replied so I would assume the either own or bought them.

Light a can of Sterno under the seat (honestly a good thing to have in your emergency kit if your a cold weather resident)

Initially only started to read as I was going to be a dork and say "D is for Dat way" and point forward and also to remember "R is not Right strait forward" But these I do not agree with personally. Might be just what I see regularly or the fact I've grown up all my life on stick shifts but I suggest using it all year round. Letting the cables sit in one place and not touched especially through the seasons that are going to cause more corrosion/risk of sticking from staying stationary is not something I am personally a fan of. Just my 2 cents though

1st there ARE other brands for manual hubs. There's the game of chance finding a set of factory Hardbody hubs, MileMarkers, Possibly Superwinch etc. And yo can always look around here and other Nissan 4x4 sites for pre-owned hubs (I got my MileMarkers dirt cheap from a for sale thread on nissanoffroad.net) 2nd, there IS a writeup around here somewhere for cleaning re-greasing the auto hubs that can help you out some

Factory GM wheels have smaller hub bores (than at least wd21s, not 100% on r50s but belive they are the same).

Judging by your choices I'm going to assume you like white wagon wheels As silverton said, it's more what YOU like, nobody else has to drive it. Maby bug a Photoshop user to play with a pic and see what different ones will look like on it, you'll be happier in the long run than if you get ones that "so-and-so liked better"

I could possibly be interested, or if anythig can at least proably scrounge up a trim piece to donate to the project. Still kinda want to make my own, and gotta Quit being cheap and buy gauges first

that's just because you fail Adam...

Maby you took it in the wrong context and his backside tastes like Skittles? Taste the rainbow!

Light hoops = the headlight "protection". Those little drop down "tow points" are actuall t-hook tie down points for towing the truck (as in tieing you truck down on a flatbed/trailer/etc, not using suspension as tie down points)