nunya

Yea, when it comes to Steve and RuggedRocks, no need to panic. He's trying to extend his parts lineup all the time and develope new things for us, not slam his doors!

Calm down hero... I said "I" did that as a kid, didn't say you "were" one. Can you actually read what you post? Did I say purposefully? Read YOUR post here "I was able to repeat it rather easily turning left" Sorry I don't share your same outlook on how driving on public roads trying to pull wheels off the ground is a good image for the four wheel drive community and responsible manners. We all did stupid things but I'm guess ing theres a reason you took this post down from the poho group on FB (didn't see any of the replys there but here's where I WILL assume it wasn't all thumbs up).

I personally hope you don't have any of the site logos on your truck while diving on public streets in that kind of manner, kind of like condoning street racing (in a different sence), and on our smaller nimble suv's, generally the suspension goal is to be able to flex and keep 4 wheels ON the ground as much as possible. On a separate note though I DID use to find humor in pulling the front wheels by knowing how the feather the gas and clutch on my one 4x HB that had a bit too stiff of rear leafs... Ahh high school...

Rot issues on either style honestly if you think about it ain't a good arguing point. Yes wd21s got frame rot and r50s have strut tower rot. The newest r50 is still a what, 8 year old truck? And a wd21 what 16? Between the way roads are maintained (I.e. Salt), states with no annual safty inspections (even ones with in reality), and the fact that people like the majority of this site that maintain and care for their own stuff, our kind is the minority... I'm suprised there's ANY 5+ year old vechiles on the road at all!

As stated, it would be a good idea to just follow he hydraulic brake lines to see if you have a LSV. If not just go about your proper non-LSV bleed sequence(remember to double check your orders if using a LHD Pathfinder manual for a RHD Terrano, stuff may be reversed since they are backwards from each other with some of the placements) The metal tubes with nuts on them are the brake lines, a bleed screw would look just as one on a caliper or wheel cylinder would (not necessarily having he plastic/rubber cap though as alot of mechanics are too lazy to take 2 seconds to pop it back on)

That's like saving money on shoe shopping by not having legs

How about no!

already on this one, expect a lot of praise for each truck by their respected owners. I'll start with a simple one: wd21-full frame/r50-unibody (hence the term "caR50") Bake 'er from there toys!

Those bearing tools are nice but I was raised to do em by hand and am a creature of habit.

Nothing missing I hope. Vandals and thiefs suck... Get a job and be a usefull part of society...

For the headlights, I would suggest as mensioned and use your factory brackets if possible, personal experience has shown me that most of those aftermarket headlamp housings are on more brittle bracketry (though I have seen some that were rather sturdy). My main beef with plastic headlamp housings though is as Kingman said, they discolor and yellow (generally from the inside out-don't let the headlight restorer kit ads fool you), especially here having 4 seasons and salted roads during one of them... As for your taillight thoughts, all it takes is some 220 sandpaper, a little masking tape, and a can of red Testors model spray paint solid red (don't bother, it kills any usefulness of the reverse lights as you would guess) red w/clear reverse lights as for 'euro taillights' being illegal, buyer beware but if you don't hurry and click but now, check for DOT numbers on them. Some of them are actually "better" (not in a sense of taste, personally) than factory ones as they have bigger reflector areas. And even if you do knowingly get a set that don't have DOT numbers just make sure to keep your stockies and play dumb i fyou get pulled over, get a fix-it ticket and show up with your factories on to get it dismissed.

Wasn't knocking it and it does look like all stock cladding just 'massaged' a little to clear a couple things. The lip does look a bit off too. Dead on might look a little different with it removed (since you said you yanked it anyway, wheres THAT dead on shot?)

Bushwacker USED to make them, sometimes they pop up for a used set for sale. If you have none, the factory wd21 flares give you a little extra hang over (like an inch IIRC) or depending on how much you like your sheet metal you can always try finding a set that 'close' for something else and break out the saw

that would probably do it, couple wraps to hold it up, pair of wire cutters when done. Couple quick snips and reconnect.

and don't expect it in a wd21 My plan is to only make 1 anyway. With 1 side disconnected it will be free of limiting and not dangle due to still being connected on the other. Only worry then is how to tie the dangling half of the link!

put my sway bar link back on. I actually WAS already used to the little city sway he had without it, but I know I gotta do a quick run on route 28 tomorrow (past the parking lot construction area) so I didn't need something else to chase while driving. that's also Meatloaf...

We call that "sportsmans class" or just 4 cylinder class here. Dirt I hope... not so much the lip alone but does the bumper just cut in at the bottom too much period? My personal taste but on a car with the wheels strait looking dead on, I don't like to see tire. But of course my non 4x's are an Escort and a 1g DSM

You could always candy them, or try to source a set of covers or taillight guards.

Thought about putting my "bike rack" on... Didn't feel like digging it kit from under the Escort. Then thought about stopping for gas on my way to work... Meh, maby later. Wondered if I put my windows up when it started to rain... refilled my coffee cup instead. Thought again on my way home abou stopping for gas... Tomorrows another day and it's downhill TO work. So in other words... Not a thing. Wonder if my windows are up now actually... I can see my sunroof and wings are open from here. Temperatures too nice inside to check.

Basically everywhere in the FSM that has a picture and refers to side specific stuff, everything marked as "Left" is marked in a way the it would only be as such if sitting in the truck, facing forward. And again I must stress it is the CORRECT WAY, not "your" way so please stick with informing correctly and not the way you want to do it. And it don't matter if it's a Mercedes or a Metro, correct is correct and wrong is wrong. If you want to call people's advise bad, you may want to eat your own words as well since I do recall certian threads about choice bodylift products and fixing an interior light by removing the bulb As it apparently doesn't sink in I am now stepping back from this thread. OP, good luck and I hope it's a simple fix for you and my apologies about the cluster that you proably now skipped past as the good info got lost in between everything

you NORMALLY bleed farthest first, some vehicles have specific bleed sequences and wd21s are one of them. Again the CORRECT sequence per the FSM is as I typed (which is while sitting in the drivers seat facing forward, general rule of thumb unless otherwise stated) little blurry but feel free to read it. Before assuming EVERY car is the same, read up a little bud

There is a topic about this already Here but seeing the letter is a nice touch as well.

unfortunatly for being king of all the perfect advice there you didn't even get the bleed sequence right. As per the FSM (factory service manual), page BR-6 the CORRECT bleed sequence is on models without L.S.V. is LR-RR-LF-RF. If equipped with L.S.V. it is LSV bleeder_LR-RR-LF-RF. Please get facts correct before tryign to spew it out as the mighty word that all should listen to. MY advise was from 1st hand personal experience so unfortunately I spoke from pure fact and not some textbook with my "hot fluid" suggestion, which WOULD cool enough from 1 good red light of sitting to go back to working properly. The only "bad" advise I see throughout this thread is the attempt to one-up everyone and say skip diagnosing to jump strait to throwing parts at it. Do you Buy a brand new tire and wheel over a slow leak without checking to see if can be repaired or put a new turn signal switch and flasher in before checking for a burnt out bulb?

Start simple, do a CORRECT bleed and check to make sure the brakes aint Hun up at a wheel. Mine would act like air in the system directly after pulling off a decent hiway run (like braking for the exit ramp stop sign). My RR caliper was hanging a little causing the fluid to get a bit warm and sponge my brakes out for a couple hits till it would cool down.

Clean, simple, effective. I personally would have added a couple tabs to put a pair of d-rings on, but thaths just preference.