nunya

you get the alignment after re-indexing, that will get your front end back to true (as long as front steering/suspension components are in good shape of course). Depending on the ammout of sag and crank currently on them you could get 2" of lift from them (people get up to 3", the common 3" front suspension lift is primarly upper control arms that help with ball joint angles and cranked torsion bars). And yes, it is quite possible that your's did not have 31"s from the factory but as they are a factory option it doesn't take a whole lot to get them to fit on non-equipped trucks

you mean a front suspension lift, a body lift raises the whole body from the frame. And you may want to look into adjusting/re-indexing your torsion bars in the front first. They may juts be sagged giving the impression of lift in the rear without the front (as 31's was a factory optioned size and were talking about a 20+ year old vechile, it's quite the possibility) http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/17038-how-to-re-index-your-torsion-bars/

I don't (think) I have the brace in mine (over site at the time), I haven't had an issue but do plan on getting one eventually or the sake of I want something I don't have...

My blazer has the spare on the roof (as did the 4runner it replaced), both in a 31" flavor on a factory aluminum wheel on the blazer. I'm sure it ain't helping MPG but I'd put money it's not 4mpg, even with other crap on the roof as well. It gets driven daily and has had no ill effects on handling (for the way my wife drives at least) though it gets some funny looks climbing up the side of the truck web doing tire pressure checks make sure it's good and secure when you mount it!

Owners manual is great for some simple info, if its there. A lot of us here got our trucks second hand and sometimes original owners like to keep/lose things

Model paint, bedliner, and a lack of proper prep! Serious though, scroll part outs (here and craigslist) and check your local yards for used stuff in useable replacement pieces

My opinion, time/labor/money wise it would probably be better getting something already designed for an X. Don't get me wrong, I'd personally be the one rigging something I could get on the cheap on instead of shelling out the required coin so I don't condemn the idea of it, just remember you need internal bracing as well! As for pro/con from someone who went from internal to external, my list: More room in the cargo area + Blocked window/blind spot area reduced + Less of my stickers easily viewable - The added area needed to open the carrier to open the hatch / I can see it as a burden to some but I rairly have to parallel park-if I do with plans of needing to open the rear I leave room and I just pull into parking spots at stores instead I backing in More external mounting areas for stuff + More things to grease + to me, not so much to most Really it's person to person but I consider it a positive I did switch (though I do think sometimes He looked cute and clean without it) You could always fashion a roof mount setup as an option as well, but climbing up there could suck as well... (Get AAA and make them do it! )

Its a caR50, it ain't! Kidding of course, driver experience is going to be your primary factor. It you have the seat time and experience to know what your doing, you can go circles around some big dollar super built truck (of any make) with an inexperienced driver. There's plenty of stock height trucks around here that get wheeled pretty rigorously. Brand loyal people can look down all they want, let your truck and skills talk back!

I would assume a plate relocation would be in order to keep the red and blues out of your mirror over it.

I like turtles

They all load fine on my phone (except the single one I posted and B's directly after it)

Left my coffee cup in him... again. At least I don't think my keys are dangling from the ignition with him locked up tonight. Should probably check on that.

too many movie things!

Some states have laws on mud flaps for "trucks", that could be a con (though PA is a sneaky one for SUV owners as they are titled "SW" [station wagon] and "legally" by the states words not trucks ) and the look is gonna be personal preference. I havent pulled any r50 flaps so I don't know what that will take, but would assume it shouldn't be too challenging and easily reversible if you don't like it. Personally I prefer the look of lacking the flaps

That wasn't a stab at you Kyle (supringly )

full circle... saved from a doomed life of being parked on curbs!

caR50s DID have a recall on the strut towers and some of them were repaired (and some bought back to get them off the road) so that may not have been a complete line of BS Now update that info for the correct year/model! Your gonna ask about something and were gonna think you have an "unknown 2001":lol: And feel free to snap a pic and show it off to us! Since it's model is all numbers the "Infiniti" one would just be a "QX", you know... lacking any numbers period!

Technically an 88 should have a "QX2" badge since it was before caR50s period! (And has the correct amount of doors!)

So, not some cool built into the bumper thing... Dam.

Rear fog light kit? I'm intrigued...

Would make sence, move complete!

Where would you like it moved?

Useful info I can only confirm both my 88 dashes have knobs and all my HBs I can remember the dash on had knobs. Wonder the work required to make a knob dash a wheel switch dash... Hmm. Need a switch and pigtails...

Pav's pic for reference for people afraid to click links (if there are still such) and for reference for others who may click this thread looking for their wd21 dimmer here is a LHD square dash one it would be the knob to the right of the window release button/toggle