nunya

Grocerys! As stated, you would probably be better just getting it running then selling/trading for a 2wd. It's not so much a "can't be done" thing as just a work smarter not harder thing.

I just put zerks fittings in mine at the hinges. Much easier and a good excuse to have a grease gun out

I've run wheel spacers in the past on a few vechiles (and currently on my Jeep honestly). Slide on ones can be shakey, but my torque wrench is on my list of favorite tools so I didn't have issues with them (I check torque a lot). I actually have 1.5" bolt on 'Spidertrax' brand on my Heep right now and like them (no shimmy or shake from them, highway speed included), but don't really wheel it right now (gotta let that payment book get a little thinner-and different tires)

Went cross eyed looking through my photobucket and haven't found them yet but it is defiantly doeable. As vagabond said, the crossmember it bolts to at the front makes it a much simpler install. My headliner wasn't such a clean finished product though...

IIRC 93 was the 'odd' year 90-92 matched (aside from the odd 90 2 doors) 94-95 were matched. Maby some trim color variations?

How much room you have? If you have space pull ANYTHING that seems remotely intriguing. That or make a couple bucks parting it out... I know people like the roof racks from them...

I think r50 wheels have different back spacing that may make them sit 'tucked in' the fenders some. I know I e seen lego's on r59s but honestly can remember seeing the other way around...

Lug nut torque!

And that's why old threads don't just vanish!

I'm guessing he means the snap rings as well... Inside lock if that's the case

Yea, there's defiantly something wrong with those arms. Looks like you got a bunk set (it happens).

This...The UCAs don't supply any lift, just correct ball joint angles so you can turn the bars up. You still need an alignment once complete.

It's a taptalk issue, don't believe the 'error' message

Go from a 3.slow 4Runner to a 4.3 Blazer, it's a friggin race car then! (Not standing up for 4.3s, I stand by my previous comments)

That and the 'spider rail' fuel delevery system on the early 'Vortec' 4.3s suck... (And the later ones are generally at the point of constant maintnance now)

Pull the fuel pump fuse, quick simple and free

I forget which sode it was but on mine, the inner and outer were "flipped" like someone before me replaced the whole assembly (inner/sleeve/outer) and put it on backwards. And you mean Advance, they bought CARQUEST

Can't say anything about r50s but I used to like to sleep in the back of mine on rainy nights. Was like camping in my driveway! (And very relaxing, even if not the most comfortable)

Yea, they forgot about the 3 times they had to do head gaskets on it during the test eff the 3.slow! They should find the best unmolested example they can of each and do a 'revisit'. What held best to the test of time!

Mine would race pretty high at startup and sometimes surge a little till warmed up, was the temp sensor for the computer (not the gauge).

Alkorahil... Send him a PM, he is Nissan parts awesomeness

As much as I would jump to the 'BUILD THE 2 DOOR!' Side, what's wrongly with the 4 door to deem it as just a donor? Would a body swap putting the 88 on the 94 frame be more feasable if you want to stay elite with the correct number of door handles?

I used a tie down bar setup from the trunk of a late model crown vic, it was shaped kinda like the hangy part of a coat hanger so it was a perfect 'hook'

Either a resistor is needed or get 'error free' LEDs.

R&R-ed 2 high quality pre-owned windshields. That was 2 too many. Both worked (pulled the shield from my last HB to put in WhiteOwl when I first got him and a parts donor to my old 1g Eclipse I used to have). Had the help of a 'retired' glass guy both times. Removal of good on both occasions was tedious and honestly the only part I remember from both jobs, which is why I don't ever want to do another one and now have windshield coverage with my insurance.