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laxman0324

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Everything posted by laxman0324

  1. Dean, what do you think about mounting the strut spacer between the upper and lower strut mounts? Then the extension is limited by the struts, not the struts plus another inch sitting on top of it. Just wondering what your thoughts are on that...
  2. There is no available long travel struts for the R50. You will have to do lift springs and/or spacers to get a "cheap" lift in the front, subframe drop would give you a great amount of lift though. The R50 rides much more carlike than a WD21 b/c of the unibody, however that limits a lot of R50's to 2" lifts or expensive/time consuming mods to get more lift. Those rims look identical to the stock 03-04 LE rims in the US, except ours are 17" and have a much smaller center bore. I think one member, theCrow has those same wheels with 265/75R16, you should search for him and PM him about them.
  3. 1st I would check sway bar links. In both my 97 and 01 the links started making noise around 100k miles. 2nd I would check the rear control arms, my 97's bushings were so worn they made noise, my 01 isnt to that level yet though. 3rd would be the shocks 4th and this one is a stretch, my exhaust rusted off right after the flange after the center muffler and the rear pipe would bang around on bumps...
  4. The shock has a bushing at either end. Just like the control arm bushings the lower suspension mounting bolt uses a sleeve that you push into the bushing. It is slightly longer than the shock mount, so just use an angle grinder or hacksaw and cut it to a shorter length. They also include I think 3 different width washers, just mix and match those to get the lower shock mount centered and snug. If you take a look you will understand. BTW: if you need any help let me know, I will PM you my phone number and I may even be able to come and help you if I am not busy and you do it in MD.
  5. That is true...the model is RS999010XL I believe (I have posted it in other threads since I found out this info). It is listed for a Dodge Durango, but it fit on bnoth my 97 and 01 with no problems. The 97 you just need to cut down one of the sleeves and use an assortment of the washers they provide. The 01 used less washers, but the fitment on the lower mount is much tighter, however I could still get them on without a rubber mallet or anything else...
  6. Agreed, it is a huge addiction...It was so tempting to get the SFD when I had the chance.
  7. Where did that last post go? I thought that showed the wheels better Fueler...they look good at night, we need some day pics though!
  8. I would have to see it on the truck, yours is a pre-facelifted QX4, so that brush guard will look different. I loved the look of the one I had on my 97 Path, but I just can't seem to find any that look the way I want for my 01.
  9. If you like the wheels, go with spacers...I run my Xterra S/C rims with 1.5" adapters and love em!
  10. They are that size...check his build thread for any more info...
  11. Holy crap do they look nice and aggressive!
  12. I would have to see them on the truck, but I think I like them...
  13. Damn guys lets chill out, argue in PM's. My 97 only needed one set of camber bolts, but my 01 with the same exact struts and all that is visibly still positive, so I will be getting a second set for them. I would buy at least one set while doing it, if you are the very rare one who does not need it I am sure someone on the board will scoop it up for at least half what you paid.
  14. Mobil1 FTW! Since I have a manual I am using 75w90 all around, my diffs are already done and I will be doing the tranny/tcase at the same time...
  15. Bump...I am anxious to see some final pricing and pics....
  16. Those look nice and aggressive, I haven't seen them before, make sure to let us know how they are!
  17. So i took advantage of the wet roads and drove it in the rain...it is tight! Pretty much any semi aggressive throttle inputs sends you sideways, its great!
  18. enjoy it, as Dan said I think with your uses locked is probably better for you...
  19. Well I figured more than half of the recommended is enough for the short trips I do, so I will check it weekly for a couple of weeks and if its still full then I won't worry about it...even though I have no idea why that would happen...
  20. I also wanted to throw this in: when I refilled the rear diff, it only took maybe 3.5qt to fill it up instead of the factory recommended 5 and 7/8, I have no idea why, but I am driving it for a week and checking to see if for some reason there was an air pocket that needed to be released...
  21. Well first of all I am a college student, so dropping $1k or so on anything is hard to justify, and for my use I probably wouldn't care for it much. Let me explain by telling you how I use my truck. It is almost all on road or gravel road, the most off roading it will see for a couple of years is light trails and some shallow muddy areas, nothing that I would really need a locker, but areas that a tighter LSD would probably make the trip much easier. As far as the review of before after, here it is: On dry road, turning onto another road where 3/4 throttle in 2nd gear at 10mph or so would spin the inside tire. With the tighter LSD, 1/2 throttle you can hear that tire skipping that locked diffs make, and at 3/4 throttle you can feel and hear both of the tires grabbing rather than spinning the inside tire. Those type of situations are probably the only I will notice a benefit to the tighter LSD on dry pavement. On a little dirt road by my house there is a little mound of dirt that I have the clearance for, but it would lift one of the rear tires and I couldn't make it in 2WD before, it went right up with the tighter LSD in 2wd. It is raining now, so later when I am out of class I will comment on sideways I can get now... Thanks Chris, sometime this summer you will be able to drive it you can tell the difference for yourself... If you want the spare friction plates, I have the a bunch of leftover ones (I can take a pic for you) I can send them to ya for like $20 plus shipping, I will ship all of them that I have. And I remember reading that you were going to do it, and it inspired at least me (who knows what motivates Dan ) to try and mix and match to make it as strong as possible. Thanks for the inspiration I recommend it, I think it was worth what I paid, and gaining the experience of doing another type of modification (diffs ripped apart and what not) was great. Ripping apart the rear gears is not hard, do not be afraid to do it!
  22. Wow Dan, what a great write up...this is very detailed... Let me just say that anyone who wants to do this, don't be afraid, it is really quite simple...I think the hardest parts were taking the time to make sure the gears had all the proper spacing and positioning and the damn springs on the drum brakes that hold the shoes on...otherwise it is a 2 man job but it is really straightforward and nothing very difficult.
  23. of course they will be driveable, they will just look a little funky...btw if you need any help lifting it if your in MD at the time I can help you out, just PM me
  24. I got raped by Eerie when my Accord was stolen and the 1k of parts were stripped...I even had all the receipts! I have a friend with another company that covered all of his stereo equipment AND his gulf clubs in the trunk when his Mustang was stolen...I need to get with that one...
  25. I have done just under 500 miles at once in my 97, from Bel Air, MD to Lynchburg, VA and back...the 3.3L sucked in the mountains, it needed to rev way too much for me
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