laxman0324

I do love my AC setup, KYB's up front and Rancho RS9000XL in the rear...

The bar grill is on the LE and XE models for 99.5-2001 (at least since mines 01). The XE had no flares, SE had gray flares, the LE had color matching flares. The eggcrate grill is not only on 99.5 since my 01 SE has it. They did some wheel shifting and grill changing and what not almost every year from 99.5-04.

Awesome job man! Did your VQ35 come from another Pathy or did you salvage it from another model Nissan? I figured if mine ever kicked the bucket I would look for a 350Z/G35 one with a new ECM for the VVEL...

If the Mobil1 isn't approved I will look into the Synchromesh... And Alex, you are saying that the M/T will drain all the fluid through the plug...

the manual tranny has a fill plug like the tcase and diffs, fill til it gets to that level...thank god for one step being simplified...

My biggest thing is the FSM says 10 qts for the 5 speed, I want to replace all 10 quarts, so let me know how much you have added and that will make this pretty easy since the cooling system for the trannys is the same... btw: your pic shows the transfer case, but I have the 2001 FSM, I just want to make sure I replace EVERYTHING!

So lets hear it...I thought the best way to do it was to change the fluid through the hoses at the transmission cooler, but it seems like most people have been just draining and refilling on the tranny itself, so I want to hear from some of the experts if just draining and refilling on the tranny itself is satisfactory...

I got the rears individually since I bought the fronts preassembled from Max, but it was expensive for just one pair...

I thought the 99.5 was VG33? But I have never had that problem with either pathfinder...

Automatic? My uneducated guess is that the plate bolted in where the clutch pedal would go is loose and letting hot air from your engine bay into the cab...

pics...

Didn't the 99.5 get the larger front discs as well? And The 99.5 Pathy got plastic headlamps as well where the 99 had glass. And it got a larger cupholder.

Seeing as we have the same motor as the 350Z I second the notion to build it up better...You can probably buy replacements for every part...

My 97 got 22-23 with 31's through hilly MD and VA on the highway, 14-15 in the cities and 18-19 with in a 70/30 highway bias. My 01 gets 20-21 with 31's, 17 in the city, and pretty much 18.5 every time for my routine highway mix.

Congrats! I miss my old W163...crank the T-bars and add some rear coil spacers and you have 33" tires...

I can do it for half the price of what they are quoting, the only thing I will need is access to an air supply for the impact gun. I have coil compressors and everything else necessary. PM me if you are interested, we are about to go on vacation until May 31, but I can help you after that at some point. Also, did you get a new strut bearing, OEM (not KYB)? That would be a very good idea so you don't get some noises down the road. And if you are planning on lifting, this would be the perfect time to do it.

The pipes are different, the secret weapon use a second pipe in there to create a fast air flow or something like that. Here is the Secret Weapon on my old 97. Video of my 97 with the intake installed... name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>" wmode="transparent" style="width:400px; height:326px;" id="VideoPlayback" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" flashvars="">

First I would address the timing belt and rear control arm bushings. Then I would move to other maintenance. Then depending on what you want I would: 1. Buy manual locking hubs 2. Buy lift springs with new shocks/struts 3. New wheels/tires 4. Skid plates 5. Sliders 6. Lockers front and rear 7. Off road bumpers 8. Assortment of lights to put all over the truck.

That looks great! Any way you could get some pics of the bracket/bumper mounting points for reference for other members who may want to try?

Well I added 5 qts 6k miles ago and 1 qt 5 or 600 miles ago, and I just changed my oil and I got out 3.5 qts, so assuming it did not burn much of the last qt I added it is burning less than .5 qt per 1k miles. Not good but not as bad as I was expecting. And the oil was dirty as hell. I think I will shorten my oil change interval, and I will PM you in early June after we get back from our vacation to Disney about meeting up to do this, I am capable of doing it but feel more comfortable with someone who has already done it...And coming to your place is not a problem...

So I am having some serious oil burning issues and I am trying to do a little to help the problem...when you add seafoam to the oil, how long do you leave it in before you change the oil? Also, if you think there is any other fluids I can use to help clear up some of the sludge throw them at me, right now I have 1 qt of the Lucas Oil stabilizer, but I wanted to know what the process for seafoam is and if you all think it would work. Note that I will be replacing my valve cover later this summer to alleviate the problem.

Hey Chris, can you replace the PCV valve without removing the intake manifolds? The PO had a new PCV valve that he gave me when I bought the truck, unfortunately I didn't read between the lines quick enough and my VQ is burning a LOT of oil. You want to try and do the valve covers together this summer at some point?

Yea but you are sitting higher in the first place...I guess that's just the comprimise, lose some downward articulation but gain some ground clearance

I will be doing plugs this summer...hopefully no oil... I will def. be doing your PCV catch trick in the next couple weaks, expect some pathetic PMs if I can't find anything searching.

Can anyone tell me the difference between an 01 and 01.5 and what the VIN range cutoff is? I have been wondering about this since I DLed my FSM...