nige

there is a vacuum line for the fuel pressure regulator near the #6 plug. See if it's cracked, plugged or it got knocked off the fitting. black smoke is usually caused by too much fuel, so keep looking for problems in the fuel system

check your O2 sensor before the TPS. The easiest way is to just unplug it under the hood and see if driveability improves. sometimes they don't trigger a trouble code in the ECU when they go bad.

i find it's helpful to clean everything up and spray all the bolts down with lube for a couple days prior to doing the job. I tried to leave the tie rod on the first time i replaced a CV, but i found it's much easier if you remove the tie rod. If you my1path's method doesn't work, leave the castle nut 3/4 of the way threaded on the end of the tre, and give it a couple hits with the hammer from underneath. The castle nut will protect the tre threads from the hammer impacts. The pickle forks are pretty harsh on parts. I use it as a last resort when taking off old worn out BJ's and TRE's If you have manual locking hubs, lock the opposite side wheel and put the t-case lever in 4-hi - that will hold the axle still while you loosen the bolts that hold it on the diff. when you need to rotate the CV to access the other bolts, just unlock the hub again, put it back in 2wd and turn the axle by hand until you can get a socket on the rest of the bolts. then lock the hub and put it back in 4wd. Same goes for tightening them back up. take a break if you get frustrated. I usually have to when it's time to pull the old axle out and put the new one in.

they must sell a lot of replacement windshields in texas

the cops might give you a ticket for not having any mudflaps

nice picture, are those the sierras or la sals?

you don't really need stiffer torsion bars. i am still running stock t-bars with lots of extra weight in armor and the winch

do yourself a favor and check with your local dealer to see how much a new one costs. Sometimes they are cheap enough to make you think twice about trying to make your own.

garmin 60csx is a nice little device that can handle topographic maps and city routing duties. They still hold their value compared to the newer models like the colorado and oregon.

I like my 4 door. It's easier to take people with you and you don't have to fold the seat forward to get stuff out of the back. They both have the same wheelbase. I also like the updated dash in the 94-95 models. You no doubt know about the frame rust so take a good look at it and make sure it's clean. Try and get an SE model with 4.6 gears, a 5-speed and a LSD in the rear end (or an open diff if you plan on buying a locker). You can even get heated leathers, a sunroof and an external tire carrier on the SE models. Some of them are very nicely equipped!

i've also used the short strand fibreglass bondo. I found it very messy and difficult to get smooth. It would be good for patching holes on top of horizontal surfaces, but i prefer to use the plain bondo as long as you don't screw up the mix. if it's big holes, i like to use the fiberglass cloth and brush on the resin. Chicken wire can be used to reinforce it, but it's not really necessary.

yep same here. I spend more time watching videos on the internet than TV. It's been that way for the last 5 or 6 years. TV is still good for sports and spoonfeeding, but most of the shows on now are 10 minutes of footage spread out over half an hour P.S. speed channel is garbage.

check your suspension link bushings, lug nuts, caliper mounting bolts, exhaust hangers, gas tank supports, compression rod bushings. The rotor shouldn't move if the wheel is tight. It could be many things

dust storms, i think

yes, there is a little wheel you can turn with a small screwdriver inside each parking brake drum. That is for major adjustments. Minor ones can be made with the adjusting nuts. I guess if she runs out of room for adjustments on the nuts, she can spread out the parking brake shoes a bit more from inside the drum. When you install new pads or parts, your supposed to lift the rear end, adjust the shoes from the back of the drums until the wheels start to drag, then back them off a tiny bit. Then you adjust the cable where it comes out of the body under the console so you don't have to yank the lever so high.

get underneath the truck and see if you have any more room left on the adjusting bolt. It's pretty much right underneath the console bin bolted to the bottom of the body. Just follow the parking brake line from the wheel and you will see it. I think you need 12mm wrench and 12mm deep socket to adjust it. Take up the slack in the cable by tightening the 2 adjusting nuts. It's much easier of you clean all the undercoating, dirt etc. off before you adjust it. If you are already bottomed out on the adjuster, the cable has stretched and you should replace it or figure out to shorten it.

I went through the same thing last week with mine. I got scared and thought it was the rear main seal, but after i thoroughly cleaned everything off and took an second look, it ended up being a leaking gasket on my oil filter relocation kit. The oil ran down the transmission cooler lines and the side of the bell housing. Check you oil pressure sensor plug right next door to the oil filter and make sure it is snug (but not super tight). You can get a good view if you take the tire off or look from underneath. just wear some goggles and don't get dripped on by hot oil. Hopefully it's coming from that area above the starter and not the little weeping hole at the bottom of the transmission where it meets the engine.

Can you not just use 31-spline axles and carrier from w/d21's? Selectable is cool, but when it comes to trail trucks, the simpler, the better.

check your vacuum lines too

nice filter setup! You are going to love not having to d!ck around with the filter when you change your oil anymore. One other thing you might be interested in is a Fram Sure-drain. That with the remote filter makes oil changes literally take 10 minutes. I'm not sure if you can still buy the Sure drains anymore. I found mine on eBay. They are very handy for folks that have skidplates. Glad to see you got the old stud out, that would be a nightmare indeed. Reminds me of when I broke a sparkplug off in the head and I was crossing my fingers when using the extractor to get the rest of it out. My filter feed and return lines are about 2" from the header. The heat hasn't affected the hoses, but they are starting to dry out and crack after being on there for the last few years. Keep an eye on your high pressure fuel line. It also gets pretty close to the header. I think that one would do more damage if it happened to burst.

try unplugging your O2 sensor under the hood and see if it improves. If it does, you at least know something is up with the sensor/wiring

i replaced the rotten part of my fuel line, but be prepared to replace any other lines grouped with it as they are also probably ready to go too. My brake line started leaking when i took off the clamps that hold the line to the inside of the frame. I ap pretty sure the other line is for fuel vapor which goes to the carbon canister. Trace them to find out where they go. If you patch the high pressure fuel line with rubber, make sure you use the proper clamps to secure them; not hose clamps. The factory brake lines are somewhat inexpensive compared with bending your own ( unless you have spare time and the brake tube tool) so if they look corroded at all, it's best just to buy a new one.

i run the AC UCAs. I've had my front end cranked high, low and in the middle with them. I've always managed to get a good alignment regardless of the ride height, but I am on my 3rd set of upper balljoints and my 2nd set of lowers. The AC arms are supposed to be longer than stock which they say helps the BJ angle when you really crank up the front end. I still needed shims behind the spindle to get it right, and I didn't like the way the truck handled so I let the front end back down again. Look how the superlift and rancho arms have a slight upward bend to the ends of them. That's what keeps the balljoint as level as possible when you lift the front end. AC's arms are straight. Plus i think the claim of giving you more wheel travel is a crock. They might give you a tiny more droop with low-profile bumpstops, but nothing significant enough to merit a selling feature.

you shouldn't need very much silicone to seal. Just a bit around the flange of the insert and a little bit on the threads of the mounting bolt. Probably wouldn't hurt to let the silicone dry a bit before you drop the insert in the hole. I used them to hold the end of my snorkel to the roof. They didn't spin when I installed them. I drilled the hole very close to the dia. of the rivnut and i think the little bit of silicone helps to hold it.