RainGoat

Yeah, I thought they all looked pretty good. The 5th Gen T4R TRD Off-Road wheels (7 spokes) are a dime a dozen around here as everyone replaces them with the TRD Pro wheels. I picked up a 4pack with new stock Dunlop ATs for $250.

Mine was exquisitely cared for but I didn’t know about this. Lost my 5th screw & the 2nd on one of the butterfly valves before it cost me an engine at 15yrs & 102,000. For 2-3* work or labor cost, I wish I would have known.

Mine was exquisitely cared for but I didn’t know about this. Lost my 5th screw & the 2nd on one of the butterfly valves before it cost me an engine at 15yrs & 102,000. For 2-3* work or labor cost, I wish I would have known.

Welcome! This needs to be on your ToDo list: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/17104-threadlocker-on-power-valve-screws-pics/page-1

No, just a reflection. It’s plenty big to catch a reflection though. That truly amber LED bar conversion has completely transformed the utility of that light.

Yeah, that JackSafe piston extension collar & saddle work great on axles. I contemplated this purchase for almost 3 years (it just seems too expensive with tax & shipping). I finally pulled the trigger, getting 4 saddles in all (one for my Mom & 2 for friends). As a safety item, the saddle works VERY well seating on an axle. I’m not disappointed. As an FY, on some of those Toyota bottle jacks, you have to knock the rotating circular metal plate off to get the piston to seat inside the saddles collar.

Sounds like you’re doing pretty well on your own but it’s always nice to have another truck with you, especially if you’re going to try something your not sure about. Like alot of things, it’s often not what you do that matters most, but what you choose not to do. Kudos to you for using good sense & making prudent choices. Sure do envy that weather right now!

Completely agree. They can damage both your vehicle & yourself. I use mine infrequently enough that I always take 5 minutes & refamilarize myself with it after I take it off the truck before I use it. The dropping thing & the handle kick back are the most unpredictable if you don’t know about them.

That OEM jack I posted is a Toyota. Most bottle jacks are only a single stage piston - I expect that’s true of the Nissan one as well (my truck, Z & Maxima all only had scissor jacks). The Toyota one is pretty unusual.

Try Craigslist - there are always tons on ours for giveaway prices (though the PNW is clearly offroad heavy). They last forever - mine is 20 years old & no doubt, people probably have 30 & 40 year old ones

Totally understand, I replaced my engine when it suffered the power valve tragedy for the same reason - I’d had it since new & knew it’s entire history & it was still in very good shape with only trace rust - plus I was at 100K. (& My wife figured it was alot cheaper than a new 4Runner). Rates up here are more like $100-130/*, it’s offensive.

Post your quote & what part of the country you’re in. I’d be curious to see just how screwed we get here in the PNW. It would cost more than you could sell the truck for here.

The switch must have been somewhere ‘01 then (of course alot of ‘01s were manufactured in ‘00 - his was manufactured 7/00)

Wheels LM-100 Lift-Mate $30.30 5,000# Max, don't lift wheel>2" https://www.amazon.com/Hi-Lift-LM100-Jack-LM-100-Lift-Mate/dp/B00042KGWG There are also off brand versions which should be fine Bumper (old school) https://www.amazon.com/Hi-Lift-Jack-BL-250-Bumper-Lift/dp/B00042JSNY Sliders https://www.amazon.com/Lotus-Development-Slider-Adapter-Locking/dp/B00F4HX9FW Shackles https://jeepsneeds.com/products/jeepsneeds-sam-for-hi-lift-jack?variant=19720612103 Shackle/Slider https://jeepsneeds.com/collections/gear/products/d-lift-adaptor-hi-lift?variant=10307806343 Plus, you can use as a hand winch https://www.amazon.com/Hi-Lift-Jack-ORK-Off-Road-Kit/dp/B00042KQ58

I think the OEM jack switched from a bottle jack in ‘01 to a scissor jack in ‘02 based on the difference between[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] & my truck. Toyota has fantastic 3 stage OEM bottle jacks. They tend to be expensive on Craigslist but you can probably get them at a JY. Finally, while a bit pricey, these bottle jack extensions from safe jack work great. I also particularly like the saddle seat. https://safejacks.com/collections/bottle-jack-accessories Bogert aviation makes a version too but there’s really no advantage over SafeJack I also like the baseplate you see in the picture. I have a HiLift one & both a wood & metal square would work just as well but that one fits my bottle jacks (it doesn’t fit all) & HiLft plus it tucks in nicely against the rear seat back so I just carry it around all the time. https://www.amazon.com/Reese-Towpower-7048400-Farm-Plate/dp/B011PGV3DU

Yeah, that’s the beauty of the ATX14A - I use AWD almost all the time here in the PNW because it’s always slick with rain. In snow, sand, dirt & gravel it eliminates the understeer induced by locking the center diff in 4Hi & results in less “plowing” with the front end. It also eliminates the fishtailing I get with hard acceleration on slick turns in 2WD.

What year? My “lifter rattle” turned out to be the 5th power valve screw going & one of the butterfly valves coming loose. I’d start there - especially if you haven’t secured the power valves & it’s not a manual. If you do get down to lifters, it’s an incredibly complex & expensive repair. Also, I believe the part number changed late 2001 - this was confusing & hard to ferret out if it was truly a different part or not (alot of changes between 2000 & 2002 (essentially 3 slightly different engines exist in that time gap). http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/17104-threadlocker-on-power-valve-screws-pics/page-1

Interesting, I did not realize they had started making the equivalent of dual filament LEDs. I have DDM Tuning 50w Sabre 9005 in my 4Runner highs & they’re incredible. I might give this a shot though I think I’ll try & find something 5-600K, 6500K is just a tad too blue for me - though I note most of their competitors are 6500K as well.

Interesting, I did not realize they had started making the equivalent of dual filament LEDs. I have DDM Tuning 50w Sabre 9005 in my 4Runner highs & they’re incredible. I might give this a shot though I think I’ll try & find something 5-600K, 6500K is just a tad too blue for me - though I note most of their competitors are 6500K as well.

Is that some kind if dual LED to effect a High & a Low beam?

Is that some kind if dual LED to effect a High & a Low beam?

There are better resources than me on that kind of info.

It’s been a consensus on NPORA for some time now that you should probably get the OEM strut mount. There have been some failures of other brands & the importance of the part & difficulty switching it out warrant spending just a but extra for OEM on that part. My OEM parts list: Strut Bearing [54325-5V000] $48.54=$24.27x2 Spring Seat [54034-0W000] $45.42=$22.71x2 Bellows & Bump Stop [54050-0W002] $38.86=$19.43x2 Did NOT use: Upper Seat Rubber Bumper (NOT rubber) [54057-0W000] $22.50=$11.25x2 infinitipartsdeal.com

They come up very infrequently. I’ve been trolling for a couple years since I let that one go & most have just been too far away. I also just missed the demo one at ExpoWest in 2018. Yeah, the RIGd is definitely better but the price is obscene. Bumpers for 4Runners/GXs go for $2,500 - $4,500 so they figure that’s what they’re competing against. One bonus is that you can move it to another vehicle in the future & you can unload it at 80%+ with ease. Personally, I’d get the HiLift & Rotopax mount - though those prices piss me off too. You can get much cheaper plate relocators & lighting.

You definitely need a full size spare. The roof’s a bitch. While they’re nice on back, you’re probably fine with it in it’s OEM location - I’ve done that for 18yrs. I tried the roof a bit but it was just too much of a PITA. I have a swingate but haven’t bothered to mount it yet - I really want it most for the Trasheroo. Honestly, while I find the price offensive, the Wilco Hitchgate (or more atrociously priced RIGd) work very well if they fit. The best part is that you can take it off when you’re not wheeling making hatch access easier for regular use & it’s way lighter than a bumper. If buying new, I’d get the high clearance but if used, the normal clearance would be fine. I had one with the HiLift & Rotopax mount plus a new HiLift Jack for $500 but was stupid enough to let it go since it didn’t fit in my Pathy OEM receiver (boxed end too short). I will buy that or a RIGd used for my 2018 4Runner. (BTW, there’s also the DeTours (https://detoursofmaine.com/ https://trail4runner.com/2019/05/04/detours-knucklebone-tire-carrier-review/ ) & non-mobile Curtis 31006 $70 You will have to relocate & light the plate with any of these options. Here’s way too much info: RIGd https://www.rigdsupply.com/products/ultraswing-hitch-carrier https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/267339-rigd-supply-ultraswing-tire-carrier.html https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/273089-rigid-ultraswing-5th-gen-4runner-anyone-using.html Wilco https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/263097-wilco-tire-hitch-mount.html https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/259162-wilco-hitchgate.html https://trail4runner.com/2020/07/14/wilco-hitchgate-solo-hi-clearance-5th-gen-4runner/