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Everything posted by RainGoat
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They make USB outlets with voltage readers that simply plug into your U-Plug. Just one of dozens of examples; https://www.amazon.com/Palumma-Charger-Adapter-Display-Battery/dp/B0773BYS6P
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Correct - I looked but couldn’t find your transmission
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I wonder if the ticking might have been a loose power valve. They diagnosed that as lifters in mine.
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Unknown. The bumper went on before the front suspension was lifted - not my plan but the PNW R50 group couldn’t resist mounting it when the bumper arrived & my sad front end was there looking at it. It actually needs to come off for significant touch up welding, grinding & painting as well as mounting the winch & lights. Even without the bumper, the front would still have been lower than the rear since we put the LR9448s on the rear in anticipation of the SFD. And by we, I mean it wouldn’t have been accomplished without the expertise of [mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] for which I am immensely grateful! Suspension Both with Toyo Open Country A/TII 245/65R17 Lift s SFD Midfender F: D 33" P 33.5" R: D 37" P 38" PreLift (Original Stock OEM@106K miles & 17yrs) MidFender/HubCtr F: D 31.75"/14" P 31.75"/14" R: D 30.75"/14" P 30 7/8"/14"
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The directions are for you to remove your bump stops - that said, I did not as I wanted them to still be there in the case of failure.
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Heights on Stock Wheels (29.5”) No spacer though I believe @02_Pathy has a 1” spacer on the same setup without the heavy steel front bumper Post Lift with 97# bumper Midfender F: D 33" P 33.5" PreLift MidFender/HubCtr F: D 31.75"/14" P 31.75"/14"
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This is what I put on; however, you can save quite a bit with KYB struts & they are generally very well regarded. You should get the OEM Strut Bearing - you do not need to get the spring seat or bellows & bump stop - most people reuse their own but I wanted to do this once & these seemed like parts worth replacing to me - though their OEM nature really bumps up the cost. ARB Old Man Emu Struts N145S(L) & N146[emoji2400] $210/@4WP/Desert Rat ARB Brake Line Clips OEM Replacement Parts Strut Bearing [54325-5V000] $48.54=$24.27x2 Spring Seat [54034-0W000] $45.42=$22.71x2 Bellows & Bump Stop [54050-0W002] $38.86=$19.43x2 infinitipartsdeal.com ARB OME Heavy Load Spring (110-220#) [2928] 0.5" Lift $167@Desert Rat/4WP
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Great write up! Pretty much my process but I have a question regarding the metal on metal contact. I’ve typically used the silicone brake grease that I use on my pins for this - mainly because it’s convenient since I already have it out. Doing my wife’s MDX recently, I noticed the Power Stop brake pads came with a silicone grease - though it was much more viscous & tacky than my silicone grease. I’ve also heard of using Anti-Seize on these metal-metal contacts though I’ve worried about the temps. I have molybdenum grease that I use on my trailer ball hitch (but it is a synthetic designed for calipers, CV joints, etc). I would be interested in your input on these 3 different lubrications as you clearly have alot of experience & have dedicated a fair amount of thought to the process.
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This is basically a ditto of my response to another new member: You should search & review the lift threads. I think virtually everyone would agree on Landrover Springs for the rear (2 heights & 2 spring rates). Most people use Bilstein shocks for the rear, either 5100s or 5160/65s. The front has essentially 2 options: AC or ARB OME. The AC give you a full 2” lift but at the cost of a harsh ride. The OME are a superb ride but don’t lift as much (you’ll likely want a 1” spacer) & cost more. For struts the leaders are KYB & OME. Unfortunately, the OME cost 3x the KYB so it’s very reasonable to go with the KYB - no real complaints. For the strut bearing, use Nissan OME - too many problems with other brands. Make sure you read about & understand the top hat issues. I’d just reuse the OEM but if you go aftermarket, be sure you have the top hat spacer properly placed - history of many errors & failures there. Specific to you - the 225# spring rate LR springs will hold your cargo weight with no problem & still give a good road feel. Given that you’re a carpenter, maybe consider a cargo drawer system for your tools.
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I can’t speak to deer impacts - other than a steel bumper is likely better than an OEM bumper. I would also consider the full grill protection option on that bumper if I was thinking deer. The real Achille’s heel is side pull snatches - best avoided.
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Oops, I have no doubt you are correct. I was thinking VQ. Ignore my advice. I most definitely defer to@XPLORx4.
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Dream restoration and mods! - I need advice.
RainGoat replied to Joey98pathfinder's topic in The Garage
I would echo[mention=36148]hawairish[/mention] completely. Good tires are #1 but decide if you’re going to lift first as you may want a bigger size. Personally I think sliders are the most important body protection as damage in your rocker panel is tough & expensive to repair. The OEM low profile running boards are pretty hardy though and offer some protection. You’ll find all the young guys take them off, while we older/family guys keep them for roof access - I don’t know of anybody with body damage who had them on, but I can think of 3-4 current members with damage that occurs while having them off). Finally, I agree that you will likely find auxiliary lighting to be a useful mod. Luckily, there are countless ways to do that & most are easy & inexpensive.- 5 replies
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You’ve got to be careful following@TowndawgR50 Especially when he lets the dogs drive!
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You should search & review the lift threads. I think virtually everyone would agree on Landrover Springs for the rear (2 heights & 2 spring rates). Most people use Bilstein shocks for the rear, either 5100s or 5160/65s. The front has essentially 2 options: AC or ARB OME. The AC give you a full 2” lift but at the cost of a harsh ride. The OME are a superb ride but don’t lift as much (you’ll likely want a 1” spacer) & cost more. For struts, the leaders are KYB & OME. Unfortunately, the OME cost 3x the KYB so it’s very reasonable to go with the KYB - no real complaints. For the strut bearing, use Nissan OME - too many problems with other brands. Make sure you read about & understand the top hat issues. I’d just reuse the OEM but if you go aftermarket, be sure you have the top hat spacer properly placed - history of many errors & failures there.
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Definitely get the rear bypass while you’re at it - far too many people have had to deal with leaks there & it’s nearly impossible to do (only @02_Pathy has been able to do it in place)
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I have the Coastal Offroad bumper. I would agree you have identified its weak point. Frankly, it’s the weak point of all aftermarket bumpers on the R50.[mention=36148]hawairish[/mention] has been working on some brackets to bolster this attachment & ultimately I will switch to a bumper based on his &[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] bumper design for exactly these reasons. Personally, I also think the Coastal Offroad design is a little too focused on “high clearance “. Another 2cm of lip would have been useful for mounting forward lights on top. Also, it should have had Hi-Lift jack points cut into the design. All that said, I think it’s probably the best currently available bumper. If you get one, keep in touch as we can discuss mods to the design & how to work around some of its limitations. Also, as an FYI, you may decide you’ll want to rework your windshield washer fluid reservoir & air intake resonators as they show (common with most aftermarket bumpers). Look at my IG account & you’ll see. I plan to paint mine black for the interim but will ultimately rework.
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Love your handle! [emoji3073]
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Hawairish and TowndawgR50 are teaming up!
RainGoat replied to hawairish's topic in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Ha, that’s my feeling - though only 17 years. I only put the Coastal on because I ran across it second hand & my front end had been messed up from a collision for 2 1/2 years.- 155 replies
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Hanging with@TowndawgR50
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People seemed to like this one so I’ll put it in
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Yeah, I expect we all have overloaded them as that’s a ridiculously light load. I pulled all my upper plastic hooks & tapped 1/4-20 into the sheet metal underneath. I basically only use bungees there to keep the load organized. Even with drawers, a platform or your excellent cargo frame, I expect we could use better anchors. It’s also why I’m an advocate of cam straps over ratchet straps. Both straps should have a slight check/retightening after the first 10-15” or if they get wet but ratchet straps allow you to apply far too much force - we’re not flatbeds, nothing on our trucks is probably rated for it. The barrier your internal cargo rack makes between the cargo area & your rear seats is probably the best safety measure one could have. I used to net the cargo area down on the tough roads if AZ, CO & UT but that wasn’t really weight bearing. (Of course I carried only lightweight backpacking type gear and didn’t have rear passengers back then)
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Hawairish and TowndawgR50 are teaming up!
RainGoat replied to hawairish's topic in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
I have Coastal Offroad’s bumper and I think it might be the best product currently produced; however, I intend to sell it & upgrade to a Pines to Spines Offroad version when that comes out. I’ve seen[mention=36148]hawairish[/mention]’s bracket’s & I originally met[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention], 2 years ago, specifically to talk about his thoughts on bumper design. As a combination product, it will be unbeatable. Several concerns they expressed years ago are not addressed in the Coastal version. I’m looking for a bombproof design where a lot of thought has gone into attachment, the forces at work on a bumper during different recovery situations, and the unique nature of the R50s unibody design. I think the process they’ve followed with the Swingates & the SFDs illustrates well that @PinestoSpines goal is a top notch product. They are taking their time, testing prototypes, and willing to delay production to adjust & tweak their design when something doesn’t measure up to their expectations.- 155 replies
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The ceramic is supposed to have pretty good heat rejection. Most of the good manufacturers have data regarding that spec on their different product lines. As for heat, AC & AZ. When I lived in PHX ~2003-4, I never had any real issues with the AC. I can remember being in stop & go traffic around Anthem at 116*F & no discomfort. The truck was pretty new then so likely the AC was working at max efficiency. I don’t really remember being uncomfortable except if I was running short errands (opening the doors repeatedly) or occasionally in the Monsoon season (heat down ~100* but humidity up). It also helped that the truck sat under cover at home - in a parking garage, so at ambient temp but none of that direct radiant heat while stopped. AZ DOT says it’s as high as 140* within a foot of the tarmac & your body can lose a gallon of water in 30”.
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Has anyone popped those tabs that hold the carpet in back in the cargo area. I’m really itching to redo my cargo area & feel like my last several trips I’ve dirtied it up more than I ever have before. I’d like to pull the carpet & use our little carpet cleaner on it & take the opportunity to explore all my anchoring points. For instance, I have those LATCH anchors back there - they’ve got to be decently anchored. Maybe I’ll put some D-Rings back there. Also, has anyone read anywhere if there’s an actual load rating on the cargo tie downs.