Alkorahil

Same here!!!!

aHardbody and Trogdor got most of it! I agree with them. I would be inclined to bet the previous transmission was not filled properly per the oil filling TSB. As to the blinking light n that pattern on the alarm.....that means 'error'. I was thinking it could be tied to the door lock problem you have. If the door locks are not working it would cause the error. Without the remote it should still arm when you close the doors and disarm using the key in the ignition. I would also take a look at the hood pin for the alarm. It is under the hood near the window wiper motor. Make sure the black pin isnt corroded/broken/missing. It is spring loaded, it should travel up and down freely when you push on the top of it. If it is broken, etc it will cause an error And...belive it or not...check the wiring and connections on the alarm siren speaker. If the connections are not making a connection it will also cause an error.

That is the Automatic Transmission Control Module. This vehicle has one computer 'brain' to contrl the engine, and a seperate one for the auto transmission. It is mounted in the rear of the vehicle behind the interior panels. It is expensive.

Let us know!

Some hot sports opinions around here! Since we are throwing them out. i like the factory cross stiched tint thing. Especially when it hails because it wont shatter all over my head. I also like the heavier duty glass used. What I like even more is being able to still find parts for them.

No longer available But they did exist for the older ones!

There is the factory one and the aftermarket kit by (name eludes me for the moment) that some dealers would put in the XE models. The factory one is heavier glass and slightly wider front to back then the kit one. I cant remeber the name of the company that supplied them! I can see their emblem even in my head. It was an orange stylized sun and the name was duraguard, sunguard, something like that.

that is defianely the window amplifier

The outside temperatures seeming to be a factor make me think thermostat or engine temp sensor. (or both)

window amp not wiper amp

That isnt the power window amplifier. It is a white box about 1x1x5 inches. It is on the passenger side behind the kick plate. It has a metal bracket on it with a 10mm bolt holding it to the body. If it is working you can hear it (the relay inside) click when you hit the switch. PART NUMBER: B8515-43G85 DESCRIPTION: AMPLIFIER-POWER WINDOW $109.40 (NISSAN LIST: $168.99) (COURTESY: $124.00)

I agree with the above. Are you in power mode? Check that first. Read the FSM if you messed with the Throttle Position Sensor. It can be a little tricky to reset if you need to.

Like 5523pathfinder's posted here, I go one step beyond. I pull the intake off, and buy a new intake gasket and 4 cans of intake cleaner. I then proceed to clean all the passages and inside the hoses underneath till it is sparkling clean. Its amazing what sort of junk gets in there. A fuel induction like he also posted pics of can also do some good. It is also a smoke show as noted. It is one of those things that will do some good if you needed it and waste $$ if you didnt. However with induction cleaning, if your catalytic converter was on its way out, it will kill it. So your future purchase of a new cat will be moved forward in time

If you are refering to the black plug on the front/side of the distributor that is where the tachometer gets its signal from. Use regular NGK plugs only. numbers BKR6EY or (BKR5EY or BKR7EY if you want)

I know a few guys that have used BG44K and they swear by it. Never used it myself so I cant say.

Nissan Matic-D is still Nissan Matic-D it has not changed since it came out. C hasnt been used in a north american Nissan in like a bazillion years. D replaced C back when vehicles still used leaded gas! D is not interchangable with J, K, W or S (please dont!!) Part number for Nissan-Matic D is: 999MP-AA100P Now.... As far as 'universal' AT fluids go that are out there now......I say no way. But thats just my opinion.

No power to the LED on the switch sounds like a connection problem between the alarm brain and the switch itself. I know it you dont have the switch plugged in (or its bad) the alarm system will not function (completes the circuits). Even though you can get the LED to light up, I would try swapping switches with a known good switch. I would also follow the wires from the switch to the brain box. under the carpet, etc. It goes under several tight points and might have gotten pinced (just thinking outside the box) IIRC correctly also, same with the wires/connections to the pin switches for the doors. Without them attached the brain doesnt know what to do. I have the troubleshooter flowchart at home. I will see if it has any insights.

Make sure to read the FSM on how to test the O2 sensor. There are some cautions notes in there. You dont want to fry your ECU! If you replace your O2 sensor it will replace everything from the sensor forward to where it connects into the main harness on the right side of the engine bay. You might be surprised how much peppier/better the truck runs with a new O2 sensor. Just a thought. (just dont get a universal 02 sensor)

Agreed. it is the cylinder leaking. For your 1987 Nissan still provides the seal kit or the entire unit. Part Number: 30611-10V27 Description: PISTON KIT-CLUTCH $16.26 (Nissan list: $34.37) The master clutch cylinder defaults to the entire assembly complete with new resevour tank and cap. Part Number: 30610-59G11 Description: CYLNDR ASMY $83.49 (nissan list: $142.55) I found it interesting that the rebuild kit is the same for the 720, D21, D21U, WD21, S130, S110, S12, N10 and Z31

There is an upper and a lower piece for that glass 83816-83G00 MOULDING-UPPER, REAR SIDE, RH $22.14 (NISSAN LIST: $46.80) 83814-83G00 MOULDING-LOWER, REAR SIDE, RH $21.35 (NISSAN LIST: $45.14) There is also the L shaped plastic upper corner moulding: 83822-83G00 MOULDING-CORNER, REAR SIDE, RH $17.54 (NISSAN LIST: $37.08$

Yep, those in that diagram are thse parts: PART NUMBER: 80820-01G00 DESCRIPTION: MOULDING, BELT, FRONT, RH $53.22 (NISSAN LIST:$72.12) PART NUMBER: 80821-01G00 DESCRIPTION: MOULDING, BELT, FRONT, LH $59.47 (NISSAN LIST: $80.58) Getting them off the vehicle is easy, just pull them off. But you will destroy them in the process though. Getting them off a vehicle once installed without damaging them, even with a putty knife....dont really think its possible. Definately would take some patience! I would be impressed if you did! Putting the new ones on you have to be careful and apply even pressure to avoid bending the pot metal under the rubber.

Yeah I have seen these on hard core mud boggers before. Not sure where they get them or the price or anything.

I was thinking along the lines of parking for show, yeah any driving around with extra lights is asking for it.