PathyAndTheJets

The radiator cap is designed to hold about 13 lbs of pressure. More than that and the spring compresses and vents excess fluid into the overflow. Pressure is caused by heat, so when it cools off the cap allows the coolant to be pulled back in from the overflow. Older cars used to just let it spill on the ground and you'd just need to top it off occasionally. I'm not sure if the 90-95s have the bleeder tee in the upper rad hose, but I've had good luck topping off the coolant with that to get the air out. Didn't require a system bleed the last time I did it. If you haven't gotten a new radiator cap yet, I recommend it. The seal is going to be covered in that rusty junk.

Manual or automatic? By lost power, did the engine bog down or did it Rev up but didn't speed up the vehicle. My first thought is it's the clutch if it's a manual. 4lo might be multiplying a slipping clutches torque enough to get moving. You should still be able to push the stick out of 4low, unless you drove it home like that. You might need to Jack up the wheels to let the drive line unwind in that case.

Most ford guys ask for motorcraft from my experience.

Did you bench bleed the master? If not you may still have some air stuck in there. For checking the clutch I've always been told to stomp it to the boards and row through the gears quickly. Like 4th gear at 20 mph and watch to see if your RPMs rise faster than you're accelerating.

Front of the trans on the passenger side. It screws in and kinda sucks to get at. I think it's 18mm? 3/4 fits good enough though. I could only get to mine with a stubby wrench.

Manual or auto? Sounds like since it flashed, the switch is probably worn out. In the manual it's the closest switch to the front. 15 bucks at your local parts house. Auto? It's probably part of the range sensor, and may be able to be cleaned. New range sensors are usually a spendy item. Probably looking at 100+.

Do you have an Advance Auto parts? It'd be 118 bucks roughly. They're probably a week out though. It is 100 bucks plus tax if they have a set in the warehouse.

I can get a set of MM for 95 bucks through work. Looks like I found my next upgrade.

Iridiums really only last longer. The change interval is like 90,000 miles for some vehicles. NGK V Powers or G-Powers are the most economical. If we were talking 00s F150s or something front wheel drive, v6 or v8, absolutely iridium plugs. You don't want to do it again in the lifetime of the vehicle.

I really dislike putting chrome on a vehicle that has none. Looks out of place. I've been looking at the mile markers, roughly how many degrees do you have to turn the dial to lock them? I messed around with some Warns on a 4runner, and you had to turn the dial like 280 degrees to lock them in. It's a minor complaint, but irritates me still.

I haven't had the transfer case grind or clunk at all. I shift on the fly as well, don't need power to the front if the road isn't ice or whatever. I always put the trans in neutral and push in the clutch, wait 3 seconds and then drop into 4hi. Smooth as silk.

Went from a truck with maybe 70hp at the wheels, and weighs 3700lbs to a Pathfinder. I know the racecar feel. Though that would keep up with my buddies 3. Slow 4runner. I don't quite understand the need to ditch the computer. I get that a carb is simpler, but a computer and fuel injection can maintain a close to perfect a/f ratio. You'd make more power with a TBI setup, MSD makes one that has a super simple tuner. If you really want to go with the 4.3

I've heard of them over filling the crankcase too. I let very few shops work on my vehicles. And that's only things I can't do on my own. Which is probably just alignments. And they usually don't do a great job. Never have I seen my pickup or Pathfinder in the green on all specs. If you're going to adjust the toe, make sure they're close to equal, not just the screen turned green. Flat rate brings out the worst... Uh rant over I suppose.

Weird. I don't have any issues with mine, and they have 260k on them. They lock right up and solidly. And unlock. I enjoy the convenience in the winter. But I can understand on trails when they would be less than helpful. I've also heard of them locking and unlocking in 4x4 and causing some serpentine maneuvers. Did the hardbodies come with manual locking hubs? My 720 has Nissan manual lockers but they are 26 spline. They look better than the Warns.

The 4.3 is a heavy pig. I doubt you would see a performance gain. It weighs at least 200 more pounds than a VG, produces 60 more hp? And IIRC it's much taller than a VG, so you'll have to do a body lift. And at that point you might as well put the last two cylinders back on and shoehorn a 350 in there. I've ridden in many blazers, never have I been impressed by their get up and go. Plus the cost of a new carb $200+ (don't buy used carbs, never ends up well) And a manifold $200 used And the cost of the engine 500 bucks You could buy a wrecked zx Turbo and Turbo the Pathfinder.

Park switch in the motor is probably faulty. You might be able to fix it by taking it apart, a new one would fix it.

As long as the hub fits in the center hole of the wheel spacer, you'll be fine.

There's no cover on Pathfinder axles. Jack up the back and see if they spin the same way in neutral or won't spin in gear.

If the engine burns oil just top the last quart before your change with ATF. Won't hurt anything.

Probably a bearing puller, snap ring pliers, socket set, maybe a jig or other person to hold it steady while breaking bolts loose, and some grey rtv for reassembly. As for installation.. A brass drift would probably get it done.

The front cover needs to be removed, where the throwout rides, then the front case has to be separated. http://www.midwesttrans.com/fs5r30_parts_ill_p1.jpg

I usually look on Nissanpartsdeal and then go to my local dealer with the part number. Usually get it in a few days.

They look like dealer option rims off an early 90s Chevy. Or American racing Bajas

My brother had his 31s on the 6 inch steelies and had no abnormal tire wear.

Changed my oil to 5w30 for winter and replaced my reverse light switch. Filled my trans with a hundred bucks worth of gear oil. Shifts smoother now. And I know that it's not gl5 in there.