RCWD21

Is the crossover pipe the only difference between the two sets? Pacesetter gave me the generic this only fits that response.. I planed on getting another egr tube to be able to get around the reworking of the tube, or even use braided stainless and have my dad's friend (professional welder) weld it to the pip to give me some flex in the area, and even then I could have him weld one on in the correct location and go over all the welds to make sure everything is held together correctly. I'm aware of the "issues" these have from the egr bung to the occasional "quarter sized" hole feeding the Y-pipe from the passenger side and then finally to the "heat paint" they ship them with. I assemble chinese scooters and atvs where I work and I'm all too familiar with that black shipping pain that burns off after a while then let's everything get all rusty and corroded, I think there's more smoke than there is actual paint anyways lol Which set did you end up ordering when you had them though? Sent from inside my potato

Well all those problmes you list are easily fixed with a little time and wlbow grease. The oil leak is more than likely from the valve cover screws being loose and letting oil run down OR the cam seals depending on exactly where the oil trails to. Side post batteries are usually bad at starting vehicles (dodge used them and I've seen more issues than I wanna admit with melted battery posts. Top posts are far stronger when it comes to pulling amperage out of a battery for a high load like a starter. It could also be a failing starter due to the oil soaking problems when the oil gets changed. The rear diff leak could easily be fixed with either gasket sealer or a bit of Teflon tape on the threads of the fill/drain plugs or if it's leaking around the carrier flange try tightening the nuts down. The wire for the oil sensor can be fixed with a crimp connector and a short piece of wire with a female spade terminal on the end of it. As for the ticking I'm not sure if you mean from an exhaust leak, or lifter tap. If exhaust it's probably the notorious broken exhaust studs. If it's lifters try a thicker oil first to see if it shuts them up. If not a set of lifters is only like $75 on ebay with free shipping. As for the codes I can't remember what those are but it could be as simple as hitting up a junkyard depending on if you wanna go the super cheap route, or even corrosion in the connector. Power steering leak, depending on where would be a little more labor intensive (due to the high pressure line routing) again it could be as simple as replacing the resovoir hoses or if it's leaking from the pump just swapping out a junkyard pump for the fastest fix if you're not comfortable rebuilding a pump (really easy once you've seen how the pump is put together). As long as the frame isn't rotting out and you enjoy driving it, not to mention you've owned it most of its life I see no reason to get rid of it yet. My vote is to fix it up and keep it around. Sent from inside my potato

Besides the crossover pipe differences between the set for an auto and a manual would it really matter which set I chose to go with? On certain sites they say that the headers for an automatic are short tube and others say that they're long tube and vice versa for the manual transmission. I'd like to get long tube if I could and save about $30 without having to buy gaskets on top of a higher price. Manual transmission headers are 70-1198 Automatic transmission headers are 70-1197 I can find a set for an auto with gaskets cheaper than I can a set for a manual. Is there an actual difference between the runners between the 2 sets or is that just something they say to sell more? In the pics I don't see a difference in anything other than the crossover pipe so that's why I ask. Thanks for any help by the way!

Anytime you fiddle with ring and pinion setups you always want to check the backlash and make sure everything is within tolerance. If not you could end up with a noisy diff and bad bearings. Sent from inside my potato

A snow blower on the front of a riding mower... sounds like something I would do! I look forward to seeing more progess on this when you get the time though. I have a few of these cans laying around and might try something like this if I can't find a decent center console to complete my manual swap Sent from inside my potato

Couldn't I just use a durable hose of some sort to fit over the lower most ring of the coil to act as an isolator if that's the case? Sent from inside my potato

Hey Slarti how's the console coming along? Sent from inside my potato

That is definitely an exhaust leak. Either from a warped manifold or where the 3 bolt flange is. I fixed that exact same noise on my dad's 93 HB. It was from broken studs too. Did you scrape and sand down the mating surfaces on the manifold and make sure all the bolts/ nuts were able to be tightened down completely? Sent from inside my potato

Soooooo it's been an REALLY long time since I posted this BUT the snorkel will be here on the 4th! It's plumbed for a diesel but is sized to fit all the way from a z24i to a td27. Only thing left to find is a suitable hose to go from the snorkel to the intake, I'll be taking care of that once I have it in my hands so I can measure everything correctly. Oh and I have a 3 inch body lift installed too

Seems to be I'm not getting notifications on many of my posts but I've tied it up to the General Grabber AT2's and the Cooper/Mastercraft tires. Now to just get everything ready to accept the new larger tires and wheels.

That's exactly what I was trying to find and also why I wasn't able to find anything.. As for upper or lowers I'm not exactly sure. I may not even need to replace them but I wanted to know what to order in case they were bad. I don't know what the difference is between the uppers and lowers since I've left suspension for last. I'll me checking on them tomorrow when I crawl under there and assess the rust around a body mount (not sure how to go about fixing that) but those are the numbers I was looking for. I knew they started with a 9 but I guess my math wasn't adding up with too much on my brain and that's where I went wrong. Thanks for finding that for me! Sent from inside my potato

I don't think that number was from one of your posts but I'm not 100% sure. And I'm planning on using JGC springs with the pigtail bent out in the rear for my lift in a few weeks when my control arms come in. I haven't tried prothane yet but I may have to. The measurements I gave ES were for a set of replacement springs that measure 4.07in ID with a coil size of .56 in. So I'd assume the OD would be 4.63in? It's the Moog CC247 springs I used for measurements. Sent from inside my potato

I gave them the measurements of a replacement spring I had in front of me and they said they didn't have anything that woukd work. I know people have gotten their isolators before, I just can't find the definite part number everyone has used. Sent from inside my potato

Does anyone happen to know the part number? I've continued to search and even contacted ES and they say there isn't a product that matches what I need but I know there is. Sent from inside my potato

You're not supposed to clean carbon from your exhaust with rocks! [emoji6] but I'm facing that issue with my 98 impreza. The front converter has rattled loose inside exactly like in the video and has been slowly melting and clumping up destroying itself in the process.. Sent from inside my potato

The extension through the hole isn't ideal but none of the bolts I've ever removed were extremely tight to the point where a snap on impact gun couldn't pop it free. The belt at home method I've found is to loosen them before removing the old belt that way the engine and belt can keep it in place, plus if it rotates everything is lined up so there's no risk. And yea on the stock thermostat housing there's a dot or dash that indicates UP. And you're not the only one that hates that little seal area for the thermostat, they could've made it a little thicker in that area and used an O-ring or a thicker gasket. I don't particularly trust RTV on its own. But I'm glad you're back up and running! Sent from inside my potato

I would assume so since you're going for the 4 speed. You'd basically need to swap over a ton of wiring and parts. Can you get ahold of the whole parts pathfinder? Any RE4R01A is plug and play. Just remember that if you get a transmission from a supercharged xterra that you'll need the torque converter AND flex plate since they're different. With any transmission you get its a good idea to get the torque converter with it unless you're replacing it with a new one, and if you're going with a new one I'd highly recommend removing and cleaning the pan in kerosene before installing it in your pathfinder, oh and replace the input seal that seals the transmission and converter snout. About the only issue I see you running into is a difference is plug sizes where everything connects to the vehicle from the transmission so get the vehicle side of the gear selector unit too just incase Sent from inside my potato

I'm unfamiliar with newer emissions systems so I'm not of much help but hopefully someone will chime in here soon and help... Have you checked in the FSM if it's available to see what components are connected in the evap system and where sensors are? Sent from inside my potato

You're welcome Zed, glad to hear you got it all back in there. The cam seals usually last a pretty long time so now that they're done you shouldn't have to worry about them for a pretty long time. The belt method is pretty hard but when it comes down to buying an expensive tool that you're not going to be using everyday it's hard to justify buying it. You should be ok as long as you didn't rotate the cam around further than what it moved on its own +/- a little bit. Did you already replace your crank seal while you had it all apart? Sent from inside my potato

The HD transmission can be found in the first gen xterra I believe. I know it's from mid 01' and after but not sure when it ends. I wanna say the 04' model? Either way it's going to be a lot of work, but should be worth it. Sent from inside my potato

Well first off are you looking to go with a 3 speed auto like in the 87 pathfinders (I can't remember when they switched to the 4 speeds) or are you looking to go with a 4 speed with overdrive? As for wiring you'd need the wiring harness for the TCU and possibly the wiring harness under the dash so you can have all the plugs for the other components. You'd need to remove your dash to remove your brake and clutch pedal and swap in an auto brake pedal if you want the larger foot pad. Parts wise you'd need the flex plate, torque converter, you'll need to aquire the bushing piece that is pressed into the crank for an automatic (the piece normally removed when doing an auto to manual swap) transmission, the metal cooler lines, transmission cooler, the shift cable, the interior console and the appropriate transmission tunnel floor plate, possibly the TPS with the potentiometer in it for the auto ECU, you'd need the auto ECU and the harness from the engine bay to under the seat depending on which transmission you go with. You'll need a transfer case for an automatic since the manual transmission transfer case has an oil cup on its input shaft. So far that's all I can think of. Sent from inside my potato

Have you tried replacing your gas cap? When they don't hold enough pressure the computer can throw a code and it's something that can easily be overlooked. A lot of vehicles can do this sort of thing and luckily it's a fairly cheap fix if it is indeed the issue. There's a tester that you can get to test the cap but last I can remember the tester is about the same price as a new cap.

You could use a heat gun to thaw out any frozen water but another thing you could do for over night waiting periods is put a drop light under the hood itll help keep things from getting totally frozen depending on how cold it gets. Also make sure there is antifreeze in the cooling system and not straight water. If it's still sitting with water I'd go ahead and drain the cooling system to get as much as possible out and pour in some antifreeze. There are a few spots in the engine valley that could be leaking. One is right under the bypass hose where the metal pipe bolts in. There's another spot at the back of the block where it turns and runs to your heater core. There's a few rubber hoses that are on the intake manifold that could be the issue too, make sure your clamps are on and tight and if they're questionable go ahead and replace them.

That looks really good, if I didn't already have an xterra rack I'd probably copy this since my 87 doesn't have roof racks and has a sunroof like yours. Sent from inside my potato

If you're already going to be in there I'd go ahead and do all the seals since to do them later on you'd be right back at this very spot. It's cheap insurance to know that they aren't leaking or are going to leak in another few months. Sent from inside my potato